Sergey Bogomolov: the twelfth "eight-thounsander" is climbed! / English. Climbing / Mountain.RU


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Sergey Bogomolov: the twelfth "eight-thounsander" is climbed!

On May 17 at 11:30 Nepalese time Sergey Bogomolov summited Manaslu, 8163 meters.

Sergey Bogomolov -
- born in 1951, Saratov,
- engaged in mountaineering since 1971
- "Snow Leopard" 4 times, a member of International Mountaineering Club, Piolet D'or nominee.
- 12 Himalaya and Karakorum expeditions, 13 successful ascents from which, 11 of them under the program "14/8000" including:
Kangchenjunga, 8586 m (1989, new route), Cho Oyu, 8201 м (1991, new route), Dhaulagiri, 8167 m (1993, new route), Ama Dablam, 6812 m (1994, new route), Everest, 8848 m (1995), Makalu, 8463 m (1996), Lhotse, 8516 m (1997), Hidden Peak, 8068m, (20010, Gasherbrum I, 8068 m (2001), Gasherbrum II, 8035 m (2001), Shisha Pangma, 8012m (2002), Nanga Parbat, 8126 m (2003), Broad Peak, 8046 m (2003).

Manaslu

Manaslu is the high peak of the Gurkha massif and the eighth highest mountain in the world located in the southern spur of Himalaya ridge between two meridional gorges on which warm air, rising upwards, mixes up with the cold stream going from Tibet, causing deposits and unstable weather. This rather seldom visited mountain has an artful character. All the routes are reputed objectively dangerous, first of all because of avalanche danger due to abundance of snow. The name Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit word Manasa and can be roughly translated as Mountain of the Spirit. The first ascent Manaslu by Japanese expedition was in 1956. In 1972, fifteen members of a Korean expedition were killed in their engulfed in the avalanche. Two years later an all-female Japanese expedition successfully ascended to the summit and they became the first women to climb an 8,000 meter peak.

This year the anniversary expedition runs and the Japanese climbers make its play-by-play report. Sergey Bogomolov together with his team-mate Gia Tortladze, Georgia, has practically put into running the common international team consisted of Japanese and German climbers. The first summit attempt was unsuccessful, then the climbers considered all mistakes, changed tactics and made the second successful summit push.

Sports autobiography of Sergey Bogomolov

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