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Эталонные маршруты

Категория

Маршруты

1A

(~F)

 

1B

(~F+)

  • Kebnekaise 2117m, Sweden/Kebnekaise, Västrä leden (West route) 1B (1400m)
  • Mount Fuji 3776m, Japan, North side "Kawaguchiko" (normal route) 1B (YDS 2nd class 1500m)
  • Vincent Piramide 4215m, Alps/Pennine Alps/Monte Rosa, from Gnifetti Hut 1B (PD-, I, 35° 600m)
  • Zumsteinspitze 4563m, Alps/Pennine Alps/Monte Rosa, from Marghérita Hut, 1B (F, 40° 100m)

2A

(~PD)

  • Elbrus, West Peak (5642m), Caucasus, Southern route (normal route) 2A (nccs III, PD-), [35-40°], 1540m
  • Elbrus ( East Peak), Caucasus, Southern Route (normal route), 2A (1540m)
  • Finsteraarhorn 4274m, Alps/Bernese Alps, Normal Route 2A (PD, G3-4 II, 35° 1226m)
  • Kliuchevskaya 4750m, Kamchatka, via ice plateau and Kamen-Kliuchevskaya col, 2A (3800m)
  • Mönch 4099m, Alps/Bernese Alps, South-East Ridge (normal route) 2A (PD, G3 II 450m)
  • Mont Blanc du Tacul (4074m), Alps/Mont Blanc Massif, NW Face (normal route) 2A (III PD- II/PD (40°) 700m)
  • Mount Kazbek 5047m, Caucasus, Gergeti Glacier (normal route) 2A (PD 35-40° 1400m)
  • Salters Peak (5560m) , Pamir/Muzkol, normal route 2A (UIAA II)
  • Schurovskiy Peak (4259m) , Caucasus/Shkhelda, South-East Crest 2A
  • Signalkuppe (Punta Gnifetti) 4554m, Alps/Pennine Alps/monte Rosa, from Gnifetti Hut 2A (PD, 900m)

2B

(~PD+)

  • Gora Belukha 4056, Altai, Delone Pass 2B (1300m)
  • Castor 4228mr, Alps/Pennine Alps/Monte Rosa, South-East Ridge 2B (PD, 35° 650m)
  • Mont Blanc 4810, Alps/Mont Blanc Massif, Aiguilles Grises (Italian Normal Route) 2A/B (PD+, II, 40° 1750m)
  • Snow Leopard Peak (5875m) , Pamir/Muzkol, Normal route 2B (AD- III)
  • Tour Ronde 3792m, Mont Blanc Massif, SE Ridge (normal route) 2B (PD II/AD (40°), II (5.3) 600m)

3A

(~AD)

  • Free Korea Peak (Pic Svobodnaya Korea) 4740m, Tien Shan/Ala-Archa, 1st Tower from West (normal route) 3A
  • Jungfrau 4158m, Alps/Bernese Alps, normal route from Rottalsattel 2B-3A (PD,G3-4 40-50° II 850m)
  • Lyskamm (East Summit) 4527, Alps/Pennine Alps/Monte Rosa, East Ridge 2B-3A (AD-, G4 45°, II 840m)
  • Muzkolski (5895m), Pamir/Muzkol, SE Ridge 3A (III)
  • Peak Talgar 5017m, Tien Shan, normal route 3A (2400m)
  • Pik Sella 4300m, Caucasus, North Face 3A (55° 350m)
  • Pik Sella 4300m, Caucasus, Ice flank and SW Ridge 3A (50° 350m)
  • Ullu-Tau 4207m, Caucasus, Zolotarev route (normal route) 3A

3B

(~AD+/D-)

  • Aiguille de Rochefort 4001m, Alps/Mont Blanc Massif, East Ridge "Arete de Rochefort" 3B-4A (III AD III/AD+ (45°), II 800m)
  • Dufourspitze 4634m, Alps/Pennine Alps/Monte Rosa, SE Ridge from Zumsteinspitze 3B (AD, III)
  • Lenzspitze 4294m, Alps/Pennine Alps/Mischabel, NE Face "Dreieselswand" 3B (D/D+, 56° 500m)
  • Mount Kazbek 5047m, Caucasus, from SE 3B

4A

(~D)

  • Aiguille du Argentiere 3902m, Mont Blanc Massif, North face 4A (D- avg. 50° 600m)
  • Aiguille du Midi 3842m, Mont Blanc Massif, North Face "Frendo Spur" 4A(-B?) (D+ III/AI4, IV (5.7))
  • Chetiriokh (6299m), Pamir/Kommunizma-Korzhenevskoy, from Moskvina camp 4A (35-40°)
  • Nevado Pissis 6882m, Andes, north side (normal route) 4A/B (F 2000m)
  • Peak "19th Party Conference" (Peak 19) 5882m, Pamir/Zaalayskiy, Abalakov Ridge 4A (2200m)
  • Piz Badile 3000m, Alps/Bergell Alps, North Ridge RUS 4A (AD/D-, f4b (IV+, mostly III and IV/5.7) 1000m)
  • Ushba North Peak 4696m, Caucasus, North-East Ridge (normal route) 4A (D 2710m/700m)

4B

(~D+/TD-)

  • Les Droites 4000m, Alps/Mont Blanc Massif, NE Spur 4B(?) (TD/TD+ V/4+ (SCO 4/5), 5c (V)), 1000m
  • Marble Wall (6400m), Tien Shan, via Pogranichnik Mountain 4B (50°), 4200m
  • Matterhorn 4478m, Alps/Pennine Alps, Liongrat 4A/B (AD/AD+, G7 III, A0 1680m/650m)
  • Misses Tau 4427m, Caucasus, North Face 4B (70-80° 2200m)
  • Peak Petrovski 4845m, Pamir/Zaalayskiy, North Face " East German Route" 4B (D 45° 1150m)
  • Shipka Peak 6254m, Pamir, Yazgulem-Dara glacier 4B
  • Ullu-Tau 4203m, Caucasus, North Face "Shield" 4B (TD- 800m)

5A

(~F - AD+)

  • Baychechekey 4515m, Tien Shan/Ala-Archa, Ice Couloir of 3rd Wall 5A (TD 80°)
  • Bogda Peak 5445m, Bogda, NE Ridge (normal route) 5A (TD-, UIAA V 1850m)
  • Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya) 4884m, Oceania, "Harrer" (normal route) 5A (AD, IV-V 5.8 V, 800m)
  • Cho Ouy 8201m, Himalaya/China, NW Flank (normal route) 5A (50-55°, II-III 2550m)
  • Denali ( 6193m/20,320' ) , Alaska, West Buttress (normal route) 5A ( AK 2+ , NZ 2 50° ), 4000m
  • Free Korea Peak (Pic Svobodnaya Korea) 4740m, Tien Shan/Ala-Archa, North Face West Couloir "Lowe" 5A (40-55° 800m)
  • Khan Tengri (Han Tengri) 6995m, Tien Shan, West Ridge (normal route from S) 5A (D SCO 3 3000m)
  • Mount Shkhara 5148m, Caucasus, NW Ridge "Cockin" (normal route) 5A (60° 1600m)
  • Mustagh Ata 7546m, China/Kunlun Shan, West Face (normal route) 5A (40-45°, avg. 30° 3100m)
  • Peak Lenin 7134m, Pamir/Zaalayskiy, "via Razdelnaya" (normal route) 5A (IV PD+/AD, 50° 3450m)
  • Peak Lenin 7134m, Pamir/Zaalayskiy, North face classic 5A (D 3450m)
  • Pik Kommunizma (Ismail Samani) 7495m, Pamir/Kommunizma-Korzhenevskoy, West side "The Burevestnik Route", 5A (40-45° 3900m)
  • Pik Korzhenevskoy (Pik Korshenevskaja) 7105m, Pamir/Kommunizma-Korzhenevskoy, Southern Crest "Tsetkin" 5A (class 4-5 3400m)
  • Pointe du Domino 3648m, Alps/Mont Blanc Massif, "Voie Messner-Marchal de la Brèche" 5A (TD III/WI3)
  • Shkhelda West 4310m, Caucasus, Snow couloir "Garf's way" 5A (1200m)

5B

(~D или сложнее ).

  • Ak-Su 5355m, Pamir/Pamiro Alai, East Ridge 5B
  • Grandes Jorasses 4208m, Mont Blanc Massif, North Face "The Shroud" 5A-6A (TD+, IV/4 (SCO 4, 75°-80°, avg.60°) 750m)
  • Grandes Jorasses 4208m, Mont Blanc Massif, North Face "Walker Spur" 5B (ED1 (G13) VI-, A1, 60° 1200m)
  • Free Korea Peak (Pic Svobodnaya Korea) 4740m, Tien Shan/Ala-Archa, North Face Central Couloir "Barber" 5B (TD 70° 800m)
  • Khan Tengri 6995m, Tien Shan, West Couloir 5B
  • Mount Everest 8848m, Himalaya/Nepal/Khumbu, NE Ridge 5B (3650m)
  • Peak Pobeda 7439m, Tien Shan, "Medrazmarishvili" (normal route via 6918) 5B 3b (AD+/D 3400m)
  • Pik Kommunizma (Ismail Samani) 7495m, Pamir/Kommunizma-Korzhenevskoy, North side "Borodkin Spur" 5B (D, 55° 3800m)
  • Pik Lenin 7134m, Pamir/Zaalayskiy, North Face Direct 5B (TD/ED-, VI- 3450m)
  • Pik Moscow, Pamir, NE Face "Cherevko" 5B
  • Pik Sia, South-east Rib "Abalakov" 5B
  • Piz Badile 3000m, Alps/Bergell Alps, NE Face "Cassin" 5B (TD, f6a (VI+, or V, A0) 800m)
  • Pumori 7165m, Himalaya/Nepal/Khumbu, South East Route 5B (D+ 65° 1861m)
  • Shkhelda Central, Caucasus, Snow shovel "Martinov's way" 5B (VI 5.9/5.10 1300m)
  • Stetind 1394m, Norway/Tysfjord, South Pillar (Sydpillaren), 5B (Nor V+, 6 (Brit E1 5b yds 5.10b uiaa VII-) 480m).
  • Ushba North Peak 4696m, Caucasus, West Face Direct 5B (SCO V 1600m)

6A

(~ED1/2)

  • Grandes Jorasses 4208m, Alps/Mont Blanc Massif, North Face "No Siesta" 6A (ED2/3 VI/6, 6a, A1/2 (VI/M8+) 1200m)
  • Kongur 7719m, Kunlun Shan, SW Ridge "Bonnington Ridge" 6A (TD-/TD, UIAA V 2900m)
  • Shisha Pangma 8012m, Himalaya, NE Face and N Ridge (normal route) 6A (45° 3000m)
  • Shkhelda Central, Caucasus, North Face "Subortovich's Way" 6A (VI 5.11 A2+ 1300m)
  • Ushba North Peak 4696m, Caucasus, NW Face "Kolomitsev's route" 6A (1500m)

6B

(~ED2-)

  • Ak-Su 5355m, Pamir/Pamiro Alai, North Face "Chaplinskey" 6B (ED+ VI, 5.10, A3 1500m)
  • Eiger 3970m, Alps/Bernese Alps, N Face "Harlin Direct" 6B (ED3/4 V+, A3, 85° 1800m)
  • Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc Massif, NE face 6B
  • Great Trango Tower (6284m) , Karakoram, NW Face "Russian route" Rus 6B (VII 5.11 A4 ), 2675m
  • K2 8611m, Karakorum, North Ridge " Japanese Route" 6B (4800m)
  • Khan Tengri 6995m, Tien Shan, SSW and SW Rib "Sviridenko's route" 6B (3000m)
  • Kongur 7719m, Kunlun Shan, SW Butress "Outskirts of Infinity" 6B extra (ED, UIAA VI+ 2900m)
  • Kongur 7719m, Kunlun Shan, North Ridge " Japanese Route" 6B (4100m)
  • Petit Dru, Mont Blanc Massif, NW Face 6B
  • Spantik Peak 7028m, Karakorum, " Sian Route" 6B (ED2 f7a, A3 2000m)
  • Trollryggen 1742m, Norway/Romsdal/Trolltindane, Trollväggen " Russian Route" 6B (ED VI 5.10, A4 1100m)
  • Ushba South Peak 4710m, Caucasus, "Kustovskiy route" 6B extra (IV 1500m)


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