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Complex expedition of Moscow Federation of Mountaineering and Rock-climbing (MFMRC) and Sports Club of Moscow Aviation Institute (AI) on Kongur (7719m) (Kun-Lun Shan Mountains, China Pamir)

Check out the previous story on the Mountain.RU:
History-geographical review: Kongur-Muztagh-Ata
Kongur-2003.The Ascent Datas






The brief technical data about Kongur, 7719 m, ascent
Krasnoyarsk team, led by Nikolay Zakharov

01.08. The BC was settled at 3600 meters near to the camps of Valery Shamalo's and Moscow federation of mountaineering expeditions.

02-03.08. Acclimatization trip via the North-East ridge with spending the night at 4500m.

04.08. A rest day in the BC.

05-6-7.08. About 1000 meters of the rope were fixed on the North-East ridge. Spending the night at 4800, 4900 meters. The ridge appeared very labour-consuming and almost horizontal, without the ascent, needed for our good acclimatization. In the following trip we would be able to get up to the beginning of the rocky wall only at 5200-5300 m, and in the fourth trip - to take off, but it would be dangerous to climb the mountain of 7719 meters having acclimatized only at 5000 meters. Therefore we changed our plans and decided to work together with the Moscow expedition on the Northern ridge. By this time the muscovites reached 6100 meters.

08.08. A day of rest.

09.08. We worked on the North-East ridge getting down the gear.

10.08. A day of rest.

11.08. Climb up to 5300 m. Spending the night.

12.08. Climb up to 6100 m. Spending the night.

13.08. Climb up to 6400 m aiming to start fixing the rope on the route. Spending the night at 6100.

14.08. Descent to the BC.

15-16-17.08. Days of rest. Preparation for the ascent.

18.08. The group (V.Arkhipov - the leader, E.Bakaleinikov, A.Mikhalitsin, A.Komissarov, S.Filatov, V.Saveliev, J.Stepanov) started to make way up to the summit and ascended up to 5300 m.

19.08. Climb up to 6100 m. Spending the night.

20.08. We planned to climbed up to 7000 m but having reached the altitude about 6700 meters we got into the very bad weather: a strong snowfall, a wind began, the visibility was close to zero. The team did not manage to make the way up to the planned place of spending the night. Already in the darkness we could set the camp to spend the night digging in the snow at about 6800 m.

21.08. Fallen ill Alex Komissarov and Jury Stepanov accompanied by Evgeny Bakaleinikov and Slava Saveliev descended to the base camp and the other three guys Arkhipov - Mikhalitsin - Filatov continued the ascent and climbed up to 7100 m.

22.08. Climb up to 7250 m.

23.08. At 13 o'clock V.Arkhipov, A.Mikhalitsin, S.Filatov got to the summit! And then descended to 6100 m.

24.08. Descent to the base camp.

The ascent was accomplished via the same route done by the team of Moscow , with a slight variant in the upper part. V.Shamalo's route differed in the top part of the route after the altitude of 6100 m.

The common conclusions. It is the unique area - the altitude differences are about 4000m, the big open spaces on the route with some orientation difficulty, the weather varies unpredictably, there is high avalanche danger in the area because of a lot of deposits. Kongur massif with its seven "7 thousand" mountains extends about 20 km and has good approaches. In the area of the base camp there are some big koshes where Kirghiz live (accordingly, you can always refresh yourselves with milk, airan, oil, meat, flat cakes).

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