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Eugeny Krivosheitsev. News from Crimea.

Some days prior to European Bouldering Championship in Lekko, I and some Ukrainian sportsmen, members of Ukrainian combined team, were refused of visa in German embassy without any reasons!

So, we were thrown overboard!

I decided to visit to Crimea for a couple of days to keep my good form as I trained a lot especially before the Championship!

The Crimean weather did not want to spoil us- it was raining every 2-3 days this summer, and that fact does not strongly interfere with climbing. If the sun appears the rock start to be dried-up literally on eyes! In comparison with the last month there is "climbing calm" in Crimea now. All the lines are empty and you do not have to queue as it was in early May.

All three days we climbed in Red Stone area.

Slavik Titov (Dnepropetrovsk) sent his eight-graded line - "Vremya Tche" (Rush Hours), 8. Mike Shalagin (who did not visit Europe too because of his diploma defending) sent Parallellny Mir (Parallel World), 8b/8b +, fourth go. This year it already is his third 8b+ after "Skif (Scythian)" and "Tri Klucha (Three Cruxes)"


Andrey Vedenmeer,
"Vremya Tche" (Rush Hours), 8

Andrey Vedenmeer is in the excellent form and working above the grandiose project: sending all the 8-graded lines in Nikita for one day!

He has nearly managed to that: he sent all the lines for one training, except for the one - "Matador", 8 + (a very complex bouldering problem). It still evades to be sent in any way - three times Andrey fell from the last bouldering move.
It will be really cool if he does that!

List of the "eight"-lines in Nikita:
Matador 8 +,
Skif (Scythian) 8b +/ (a new variant - New),
Centaur 8b +
Fantastic 8 +/b (with changes - New)
Breeze 8 +
Pashka Udalets 8 +/
Na Konya (On a horse) 8 (a variant 8)
Eskadron (Squadron) 8
Strannik (Wanderer) 8
Esaul 8/ +
Totally 9 complex lines!!!

By the way, there is a project "Skif (Scythian) 8/ + ": the beginning - bouldering from the right to the left from Helicopter, 7 +, up to the starting edges of "Scythian" and then upper to the top (Scythian is now modified by Andrey and after the top crux it goes directly upwards, without leaving to the right on a fissure, and then through the top bouldering of "Eskadron" to the finish! For the present time nobody has sent this impressive bouldering!

I successfully worked above the new "combined" line that I named "Parallelny Chertopolokh (Parallel Thistle)", supposedly of 8 +/8. And I sent it fifth go. The line turned out rather extent with set of complex sites.

The brief description of the line:
The beginning - on "Parallellny Mir (Parallel World)" 8b/b +, then you have to climb almost all the line and near the 6-th quickdraw (somewhere on 12-th meter) you have to traverse to the right before crossing the line "Vremya Tche (Rush hours)", 8, then to descend (2) via "Vremya Tche" and to traverse again to the right under the first crux of Chertopolokh, 8b (you climb this crux via a variant on the right, 8b +) and to climb farther Chertopolokh up to the finish!

The length of the line summary is about 32-33 m!

The crux on Chertopolokh is the most difficult site of 8b + as you climb it with your muscles and hands overworked after long sending almost of all "Parallel World" line.

As a whole, the line appears very pleasant, but it demands the good form and you have to do all your best on it. For today it is the most difficult line in Red Stone area ("Gyullikh line" is not has been tested yet because of a lot of water accumulated under it. It might be tried most likely only in August).

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