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Author: Eugeny Krivosheitsev, Odessa
8-grade break or first 9a in the Crimea?
Andrey Vedenmeer and I have created a lot of new lines (some of them are connections with the old ones, but a few new own lines also appeared!)
Seven new lines from 8b up to 9a have been made there!
All of them are based on already existing lines: Matador 8Ñ +, Centaur 8b +, Fantastika (Fantasy) 8a +.
The first line. Toreador, 8b +\c, - the beginning is new, about seven meters, then it joins to Matador and all along of it up to the end.
The second line. Pikador (the project while - roughly 8c or higher). Start via Matador up to the third quickdraw, and then to the left on a completely new line, about nine meters!
The third line. Troyansky Kon (Trojan Horse), 8Ñ +\9a?, - start on Matador, right at the end it goes to the right on new bolts - bouldering, about eight moves, extent of four meters.
The fourth line. Raptor, 8c\c +, - the beginning on Toreador, the middle - Matador and the ending - Trojan Horse.
The fifth line. Tirex, 8c +\9a, - the beginning on Centaur (8b +), then traverse to the left on two meters up to the crux of Matador and over it upwards! Super hard! The most complex line in the Crimea!
The sixth line. Strelets (Archer), 8c, - the beginning on Centaur, in the middle, after the crux it goes to the left (as well as Tirex, only not to the crux of Matador but to the left diagonally upwards. The ending - Trojan Horse.
The seventh line. Humanoid, 8b\b +, - the beginning on Fantastika, after the crux to the left to Centaur and on it up to the top.
It is the real 8-grade break in the Crimea!
They are added on seven lines (moreover what kind!). There is room for argument here with such "Meccas" of rock-climbing as Deverse and Osp by amount of complex lines located in the one area.
The idea of all of that was mine, but bolting and updating of edges are entirely Andrey's due, and which ought to be rendered to him by all climbing people. Because he did that with a dislocated or broken finger on his left hand - he had fallen descending Morcheka.
Meanwhile having spent a lot of attempts and forces I managed only to send two new lines - Raptor, 8c\c +, and Toreador, 8b +\c.
Andrey is very close to send them both, but the injured finger does not allow him to do all his best to succeed.
Mike Shalagin is taking by storm Matador, 8c +, visiting the Crimea for a short periods (one or two days of weekend). He is as well as in the summer the closest from us to send the route.
Several days ago Max Petrenko was here and tested Gullih, 8c +, and Flatter - Chertopolokh, 8c. He told that the task is within his powers and he would arrive in the near future to try it again (Max now is in super shape - even breaks away the holds:)
All the October long it will be quite possible to climb comfortably in the Crimea. Come! Taste the Crimean routes!
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