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COMPLEX MOUNTAIN - SPORTS EXPEDITION

of MAI Sports Club

TO THE ONLY Unclimbed "Seven-thousand" Peak of PAMIR

PLANS

In the summer of 2005 MAI Sports Club carried out a complex mountain - sports expedition in the area of Koskulak peak, Chinese Pamir.

Koskulak (7028)The expedition first team of 6 members from MAI Mountaineering Club (headed by Michael Volkov) planned to concentrate their efforts during one month in climbing Koskulak peak (7028 m) via the steep rocky north face raised from 6500 up to 7000 meters.

Five more climbers from Moscow after setting intermediate camps on the basic route planned to climb Koskulak on more simple route on the West face to guarantee summiting the peak.

The team of 8 tourists (headed by Andrey Lebedev) plans to make the trekking of 250-km route including traverse of peak Kyzylsel (6525 m) - unclimbed and unknown peak 6841 - and the last un-subdued "7-thousand" peak of Pamir - peak Koskulak (7028 m).

At the end of August the both teams (tourists and climbers) planned to join their efforts to ascend other huge mountain of the Chinese Pamir via a new route and in Alpine style.

They are going to time the event to coincide with the 75-anniversary of Moscow Aviation Institute and the 70-anniversary of its mountain sports section.

And the Expedition becomes the first stage of the six-year program "To the absolute blanks of the Central Asia. Russian tradition".

This season it was very populous at the foot of Koskulak: MAI-expedition, expedition led by Andrey Ershov (Saint Petersburg), English expedition.

Two last ones climbed the western slope- the most simple and reliable route.

EXPEDITION members

Team 1 (Hard Trek): Rustam Bikchurin (Moscow), Vladislav Kagan (Minsk), Andrey Lebedev (leader, Moscow), Jury Maksimovich (Moscow), Marina Tarakanovskaya (Novosibirsk), Dmitry Chizhik (Moscow), Petr Yudin (Novosibirsk), Oleg Janchevsky (Kiev).

Team 2 (Koskulak North Face): Michael Volkov (leader, Moscow), Alexander Vorob'ev (Moscow), Alexey Golubtsov (Moscow), Andrey Mashenin (Moscow), Andrey Nevolin (Moscow), Igor Tarnovsky (Moscow), Nikolay Sinyushin (Moscow).

Division of the team 2 (Koskulak West Face): Denis Zhilin (Moscow), Vyacheslav Odokhovsky (Moscow), Andrey Petrov (leader, Moscow), Natalia Ruleva (Moscow), Igor Tikhiy (Moscow).

Historical and geographical information

Muztagh-Ata (7546)The long geopolitical opposition of Russia and England in the Central Asia came to the end with sharing out Pamir mountain range on Sarykolsky Ridge to Tadjik and Chinese parts. Despite the obstacles made by Chinese authorities Russian expeditions considered honor to penetrate on east part of Pamir. In 1876 on uplands Pamirskoe there arrived members of expedition led by general Skobelev. In area of the lake of Karakyol from pass Uzbel L.F.Kostenko could observe for the first time the most beautiful mountain of Pamir - Muztagh-Ata (7546 m). Next year it was observed from more southern points reached by the expedition led by A.N.Severtsov.

In 1883 Muztagh-Ata mountain massif was investigated by D.L.Ivanov (a mountain engineer, member of captain Putyata's expedition). The Great Russian geologist and a member of the Tibetan expedition 1889-1890 K.I.Bogdanovich gave the detailed description of geology, geomorphology and congelation of Muztagh-Ata mountain massif. He penetrated into the area in 1889 through Karatash pass, investigated glaciers of western slope of Muztagh-Ata (the largest of them he named Przhevalsky's glacier - nowadays Yam-Bulak glacier) and then left in the Tash-Kurgan past the lake of Karakyol. From there he went further through a system of hard passes to Yarkand - Dar'ya in passing carrying out geological survey.

Unclimbed Peak 6841At the end of the 20th years of 20 century climbing discovering of Pamir began. Pamir high-altitude mountain Soviet-German expeditions in 1928 not only investigated the area and plotted extensive "white stain" to the south from Lenina peak, but also opened Communism peak (7495 m) and made the first ascent Lenina peak (7134 m).

In total there are nine mountains over 7000 meters located in Pamir (including its Chinese part): Kongur (7719, Great Britain, K.Bonington, 1981), Kongur-Tube (7595, USSR - CHINA, K.Kuzmin, 1956), Muztagh-Ata (7546, USSR - CHINA, K.Kuzmin, 1956), Communism peak (7495, USSR, E.Abalakov, 1933), Northern Muztagh-Ata (7184, USA, 1981), Lenina peak (7134, Germany, E.Shnejder, 1928), Korzhenevskaya peak (7105, USSR, A.Ugarov, 1953), Aklangam (7004, Russia, A.Lebedev, 2002) and Koskulak (7028).

All the other altitudes more than 7000 meters are separated from the nearest higher summits insignificant (less 200m) downturn and are not considered as independent summits. Five of these nine tops for the first time were climbed by Russian (Soviet) teams, and Aklangam peak - by MAI-team. Koskulak peak (7028 m) located to the south from Muztagh-Ata was the last unsubdued summit.

Expedition Current Events

25.07.05. The Expedition members took off from Domodedovo airport, Moscow, for Novosibirsk. First "adventures"- the planned change on flight in Urumchi was postponed till 16 o'clock and the guys were late for the following flight in China. But they didn't let their spirits sink and rendered habitable the "Novosibirsk" airport.

Koskulak (7028)27.07.05. The guys made flight from Novosibirsk in Urumchi, changed tickets for the missed Chinese flight and continued their way this day in the morning. Pamir is closer and closer!

29.07.05. Two days in Kashgar - the largest city of East Turkestan (China) at the crossroads of all trading ways of Central Asia. The team purchased all needed food. This day in the morning the climbers and tourists continued the way to Koskulak (about 150 km on camels, then -trekking up to base camp).

31.07.05. Two teams led by Mike Volkov and Andrey Lebedev after a long way, reached Koskulak's foot. Today the sportsmen equipped base camp and tomorrow leave to make the routes' reco.

03.08.05. Mike Volkov's team climbed up to 5000 m. Andrey Lebedev's team - ascended pass of 4743 m.

04.08.05. The climbers work on ice-fall. The camp now is at 5100 m, and tomorrow it is planned to be established at 5700 m. The day after tomorrow - descent in base camp to have a rest. Weather is good, state of health, as a whole, good too.

The tourists passed the second pass and began descent in Chimgan valley. They informed, that weather is unstable, but their state of health is good.

06.08.05. The climbers spent the night at 5700 m, left depot at 6100 m and descended to BC (4700 ì). Tomorrow they plan the rest day and then - an acclimatization ascent via a simple route on Koskulak West Face.

The tourists are on the slope of Kongur, and tomorrow want to make an acclimatization ascent up to 5600 m, and the day after tomorrow - to leave on route reco on Kongur (7719) southeast ridge.

12.08.05. Andrey Lebedev informed that his team made acclimatization on Kongur's shoulder and then passed the ice-fall and a pass 3À-graded. Having spent a day of rest the tourists began traverse of Kyzylsel peak and now they are on the ridge of the mountain at 5500 m. Weather is astable, but the sportsmen speak that they have a great experience of working in such weather conditions.

The climbers summited Koskulak northwest face (a simple variant).

09.08.05. Denis Zhilin, Andrey Petrov, Natasha Ruleva, Igor Tikhiy left base camp and climbed up to 5900 (passing the camp at 5400) where they stopped to spend the night.

10.08.05. The team led by Mike Volkov joined them.

11.08.05. Two team of climbers passed the most complex site of the route - a "knife" of 150 m - and climbed up to 6300 where the following camp was settled. Weather this day was good.

12.08.05. , Through a fog Mike Volkov, Nikolay Sinyushin, Alexander Vorob'ev, Igor Tarnovsky, Andrey Mashenin, Natasha Ruleva summited Koskulak! Having found a strongly pronounced point of 7030 m and any traces of other climbers the guys began to descend in snowfall.

After spending the night at 6300 m they came to base camp at 4700 on August, 13.

Now they plan to have 3 days for rest, "short work" of a young roast lamb and eating food depot left in base camp. All sportsmen had good acclimatization and more or less good health.

In three days the climbers assume to begin climbing the steep northern face of Koskulak peak.

14. 08.05. The team of tourists led by Andrey Lebedev made traverse of Kyzylsel peak (6525m) and stopped on spending the night at 6475 m.

15.08.05. They descended to 4400 m, and next day plan to approach to Karakol Lake where the depot had been left earlier. Weather was good, but the traverse was difficult.

The team of climbers had a rest for tree days waiting out bad weather. But the weather nevertheless was still unstable.

17.08.05. Climbing Koskulak North Face since early morning. Volkov, Sinyushin, Mashenin, Vorob'ev, Tarnovsky want to get right up to the cofferdam at 6100 m passing intermediate camps and from there begin fixing the ropes.

Andrey Lebedev with his team-mates in the meantime has a drink beer on the lake of Kyzylsel making calorie intake in a local tavern. On August, 17 they plan to leave for the second part of the route towards to the climbers.

19.08.05. The beginning of summit push. The MAI-team of climbers started to work on a rocky part of the route on the northern wall of Koskulak. Mike Volkov and Nikolay Sinyushin fixed the rope on the first rocky bastion. The tent is set at the cofferdam 6100. Weather is bad: - a wind and snow drifting. State of health is good. The guys plan to climb the route for 8 days if weather allow.

20.08.05. Good weather! Volkov's team worked on the route very fruitfully and did not see Lebedev's team should appear on the glacier.

21.08.05. Weather spoiled - a strong wind, snowing - and the work went on more slowly. Volkov and Sinyushin continued fixing the rope on the monolithic snow-covered rocks of the first bastion (5-Russian grade). Mashenin, Vorob'ev, Tarnovsky, assisted them. The direction of the route was changed a little. If they get the jump with weather, the guys tomorrow will pass the bastion. When the opportunity occurs the camp will be moved from 6100 to 6400 - 6500 m.

22.08.05. Sunny day, but windy. Igor Tarnovsky and Nick Sinyushin had a rest having buried in the tent on 2 / 3 covered with snow like in a bear’s lair. Mike Volkov, Andrey Mashenin, Alexander Vorob'ev worked on the route for 9 hours and could fix the rope on the first bastion up to the end and leave on the snow site. Through 250 m - the beginning of the second bastion. On August 23 the camp will be moved at 6500, and next day they will to fix the rope on the second bastion.

MAI-tourist team on August, 21 waited out bad weather and on August, 22 continued the approach under the route. They had to refuse planned earlier first ascent of unnamed pass (on closer examination it appeared impassable). Therefore Andrey Lebedev's team passed through the pass of 70 years of MAI and came under Karakoram pass which is supposed to be passed next day. Then the traverse of peak 6841 and peak Koskulak will begin. They stopped to spend the night on ice-fall at 5315 m. Now distance between the two teams: tourists and climbers is about 15 km, the most difficult kilometers.

23.08.05 The climbers moved the camp at 6500 and dug a hole in the size of a six-footer in a snow slope for a tent.

24.08.05. Nick Sinyushin and Igor Tarnovsky made 5 - 6 pitches on snow and one pitch on the second bastion. The others in the meantime hauled the gear from below to the camp. Weather favored them this day.

Lebedev's team started traversing peak 6841: they ascended the southern ridge up to 6000 m and in the near future hope to pass through the summit. They’re counting the distance up to base camp (10 km on a straight line) and days up to a meeting with climbers.

26.08.05. Mike Volkov, Nick Sinyushin, Andrey Mashenin, Alexander Vorob'ev, Igor Tarnovsky summited Koskulak. The Koskulak North Ridge was climbed for the first time on the 8-th day of working on the route and on the 3-rd day of working on the second rocky bastion. The team finished working on the second bastion, left on the ridge and at 9.00 pm reached the summit (second time for last two weeks). About the midnight the climbers descended to the tent at 6500m and spent the 4-th night at high altitude. The tent was buried entirely in a snow slope of 45-degrees. Weather was clear, but it was windy. They characterize their state of health as "a mild case of freezing injury and weariness". On August, 27 they plan to descend to base camp via the route of ascent. 7 rappelling pitches and overall of 1800 m await for them.

26.08.05 Lebedev's team made traverse of peak 6841, more precisely; they overcome some tops on the ridge of the anonymous mountain and ascended up to 6830 m to spend the night.

27.08.05 Volkov's team descended to base camp and considered the further plans: when to leave and whether to go on Muztagh-Ata. The nearest flights from China - on August, 30 and on September, 5. The final decision concerning Muztagh-Ata will be accepted, probably, when Lebedev's team descend to BC.

The tourists' team finished traverse 6841 peak and descended to 6400 m. Finally they decided not to ascend Koskulak because got very tired and headed straight to base camp.

28.08.05. Lebedev's team spent the night at 4700, in 5 km from base camp.

29.08.05. Andrey Mashenin and Nick Sinyushin left BC, on August 30 they will try to depart by plane Kashgar - Urumchi - Novosibirsk. Mike Volkov, Igor Tarnovsky and Alexander Vorob'ev were late up to September 6 to feast eyes with China. In the afternoon Andrey Lebedev approached to base camp with his tourist-mates. They remain in Pamir to make an ascent on Muztagh-Ata (as compensation for drawing off Koskulak). The climbers summited Koskulak for two times, eaten head off snow and got their hands and foot a bit frost bitten decided not to climb Muztagh-Ata.

31.08.05 Andrey Mashenin and Nick Sinyushin returned to Moscow! Mike Volkov, Igor Tarnovsky and Alexander Vorob'ev left BC at 4700 to travel across China.

 

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