”it’s Latok I, Sanya,” - Sergey shouted. “Take me,” I shouted to him. “This is unreal, Sanya. Everything is covered with snow mushrooms and vertical slopes here,” Sergey answered and began to descend.
Àâòîð:Alexander Gukov, S.Peterburg Translation: Maria Samsonova, Dmitry Zagorovskiy, Ekaterinburg
In august 2011 a new route on Trango Tower (Nameless Tower) wall was put up by the Moscow Mountaineering and Climbing Federation team during the expedition to Karakoram. This is the first Russian route on this mountain
Once a week she’s deal with speech therapist. She will be back to hospital in March. The speech therapists, psychologists and masseurs will take care of her for a month or more.
We are slowly adjusting back to the normal life after 3 months of madness in
Greenland... This was definitely one of our wildest adventure so far. But
don't worry we are already thinking of wilder things :)
Ukranian Marina Kopteva (one of two CIS female climbers we ever have) completed the first female solo ascent on Marcheka (981m, Crimea) via Center (6À, VI+, C2, 335m).
Simone Pedeferri, Matteo Della Bordella, Lorenzo "Pala" Lanfranchi and Richard Felderer have just returned from a successful expedition to the relatively unexplored eastern Greenland where there carried out 5 first ascents. Simone Pedeferri talks about the expedition.
We couldn't climb on Manaslu because of lack of acclimatisation and too
much snow...we had a long 12 day period of rest due to very bad weather,
but in the end managed to put up what we believe is a new route on the
south face of Nemjung.
After solve all the boulder moves and get in touch with the upper exposure part, we get excited and completely forgot about the weather that was getting worst and the 300 meters of rappelling that separate us from the base camp.
3 routes, described by Sevastopol alpinists, we didn't try because of too destroyed and dangerous terrain. We didn't find any more information, so we decided to ascend the Western part of the massif which is located to the left from the couloir, to the west from Small Kokia-Kaya mountain.
The two professional Alpinists, Robert Jasper (Germany) und Roger Schali (Switzerland) managed to finally freeclimb, redpoint, the famous "Japanese Route" on the Eiger North Face. The so called "Super-Diretissima" (5.13b/8a) is now the most challenging and demanding route through the famous 1800m North Face.
Between the central and The eastern bastions, In the upper part of the wall two long slanting interrapted ledges with trees make the big slanting corner, well seen from the road, named Triangle. The main part of the the route goes along the right interrupted ledge, forming Triangle.
Our main target was to climb around Mt Asgard, which is one of the craziest looking mountains I have ever
seen ( Two cylindrical towers with super steep and long walls all
around).
The western part of the massif and the most difficult South-eastern walls are divided by the big corner, downward from the plateau which is named Green because of the moss covering it. The route starts near the base of the couloir, coming down the Green corner.
