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New routes on the North Face of Free Korea.

This (in the year of 2000) winter Krasnoyarsk team (Valeri Balezin, Andrei Zakrepa, Vladimir Alexandrov, Yuri Stepanov, Sergei Cherezov, Alexander Terentiev) climbed the new route on the North Face of Free Korea peak.
In a short run a report about the ascent will appear in Mountain.Ru columns. This instant, we present Oleg Khvostenko's materials about Free Korea peak.

Compiled by: Oleg Khvostenko (Krasnoyarsk).

See also the article "Fourteen routes on the North Face of Free Korea peak".

пик Свободная Корея с нитками маршрутов The list of routes:
1. "Shelter" of the North face, 5B grade, mixed, V. Balezin, 1991.
2. The left buttress of the North Face, 5B grade, mixed, A. Schwab, 1982.
3. Couloirs of the East Ridge North Face, 6A grade, mixed, V. Balezin, 2000.
In the point where Balezin route joins Shwab one (near an ascent to the roof) Krasnoyarsk team found a test note of Shwab dated as 1982. The routes of Shwab, Studenin and Kustovski have not been repeated as yet. However, the same concerns Balezin route of 1994 in the centre of North-west Face (5B grade, mixed).
4. The North Face of the East Ridge, 6A grade, mixed, B. Studenin, 1966.
5. The North Face of the East Ridge, 6A grade, mixed, A. Kustovski, 1969.
6a. A variant of Semiletkin route (by the North Face, 6A), climbed by Bishkek team headed by M. Mikhailov in November of 1999.
6b. The North Face, 6A, mixed, S. Semiletkin, 1998.
7. The centre of the North Face, 6A grade, mixed, Yu. Popenko, 1975.
8a. The centre of the North Face, 6A grade, mixed, V. Bezzubkin, 1969.
8b. The right part of the North Face, 6A grade, mixed, A. Ruchkin, 1997.
In February of 2000 a duo of N. Gutnik (Bishkek) and Eu. Novoseltzev (Ekaterinburg) climbed Ruchkin route in 4 days with no preliminary preparation of it.
Kazakh team headed by Il'inski was also planning an ascent by Ruchkin route.
9. The right ridge of the North Face, 5B grade, mixed, L. Myshlyaev, 1961.

translation by Petr V. Sergeev

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