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New routes on the North Face of Free
Korea.
This (in the year of 2000) winter Krasnoyarsk team (Valeri
Balezin, Andrei Zakrepa, Vladimir Alexandrov, Yuri Stepanov, Sergei Cherezov,
Alexander Terentiev) climbed the new route on the North Face of Free Korea
peak.
In a short run a report about the ascent will appear in Mountain.Ru columns.
This instant, we present Oleg Khvostenko's materials about Free Korea
peak.
Compiled by: Oleg Khvostenko (Krasnoyarsk).
See also the article "Fourteen
routes on the North Face of Free Korea peak".
The list of routes:
1. "Shelter" of the North face, 5B grade, mixed, V. Balezin,
1991.
2. The left buttress of the North Face, 5B grade, mixed, A. Schwab, 1982.
3. Couloirs of the East Ridge North Face, 6A grade, mixed, V. Balezin,
2000.
In the point where Balezin route joins Shwab one (near an ascent
to the roof) Krasnoyarsk team found a test note of Shwab dated as 1982.
The routes of Shwab, Studenin and Kustovski have not been repeated
as yet. However, the same concerns Balezin route of 1994 in the centre
of North-west Face (5B grade, mixed).
4. The North Face of the East Ridge, 6A grade, mixed, B. Studenin,
1966.
5. The North Face of the East Ridge, 6A grade, mixed, A. Kustovski, 1969.
6a. A variant of Semiletkin route (by the North Face, 6A), climbed
by Bishkek team headed by M. Mikhailov in November of 1999.
6b. The North Face, 6A, mixed, S. Semiletkin, 1998.
7. The centre of the North Face, 6A grade, mixed, Yu. Popenko, 1975.
8a. The centre of the North Face, 6A grade, mixed, V. Bezzubkin, 1969.
8b. The right part of the North Face, 6A grade, mixed, A. Ruchkin, 1997.
In February of 2000 a duo of N. Gutnik (Bishkek) and Eu. Novoseltzev
(Ekaterinburg) climbed Ruchkin route in 4 days with no preliminary preparation
of it.
Kazakh team headed by Il'inski was also planning an ascent by Ruchkin
route.
9. The right ridge of the North Face, 5B grade, mixed, L. Myshlyaev,
1961.
translation by Petr V. Sergeev
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