Dutch-Russian
Shisha Pangma expedition (04-05/2002) BRIEF EXPEDITION PROGRAMM: 20.04. - arrival in Kathmandu
21.04. - Kathmandu
22/27.04. - Kathmandu - Zangmu (2300 m) - Nyalam (3750 m) - Shisha
Pangma Base Camp (5000 m)
28.04. - BC
29/30.04. - BC - Advanced Base Camp (5600 m)
01/03.05. - ABC, rest and acclimatization
04/05.05. - ABC - Camp 1 (6300 m) - ABC
06/07.05. - ABC, rest
08/10.05. - ABC - Camp 2 (6900 m) - ABC
11/13.05. - ABC, rest
14/17.05. - ABC - Camp 3 (7400 m) - ABC
18/20.05. - ABC, rest
21/25.05. - ABC - summit of Shisha Pangma (8012 m) - ABC
26/27.05. - ABC, reserve days
28.05. - ABC - BC - Nyalam
29.05.- Nyalam - Kathmandu
30.05.- Kathmandu
31.05.- departure from Kathmandu
Ural-Everest
2002 expedition (spring
2002) Route: North Ridge/North East Ridge of
Everest. Expedition sponsor: Magnitogorsk metallurgic concern. Information
sponsor: Mountain.RU
The
"BASK - Latok III" expedition planned within the `Big
Walls: Russian routes' project (06-07/2001) In spite of failure in 2000, the team
decided to try the West Face of Latok III (Karakoram) again (2001).
None has succeeded to climb that wall before. The team: A. Odintsov
(project manager, St.Peterburg), A. Klenov (Ekaterinburg), M. Devi
(Ekaterinburg), A. Ruchkin (Omsk), I. Barikhin (St.Peterburg), S.
Khadzhinov (St.Peterburg).
The Unclimbed
North Face of the peak Meru in Garhwal Himalayas (News of the expeditions) (04-05/2001) For the first time in history Russian
climber Valery Babanov dared to throw the gauntlet to the unclimbed
North Face of the peak Meru in Garhwal Himalayas. This wall was
called `Sharksfin’ for its original profile.
Valery Babanov has been executing solo ascents by extremely hard
routes since 1993. Solo ascents of this kind require pinpoint accuracy
in climbing and a great deal of personality. In summer 2000 Valery
scaled sensational first ascent of the North Face (ED+) of Kangtega
peak (6799m, 22,306 ft, Himalaya).
Ice
Climbing World Cup Final of 2001, March 7 - 10. Kirov, Russia.
(19.04.2001)
"...Only four women were able to overcome the cornice at the
beginning. Four more got a little further than half the way. Even
Stefanie Maureau , who was third in the total World Cup ranking,
didn't get to the Final. As a result four our women qualified for
the Final - and it wasn't a surprise. The dominating duet Sansoz
- Papert was broken by Ksenia Sdobnikova, getting higher and higher
with every competitions..."
Author: Yuri Leonov, Mountain.RU
Report
on "Festival Khan Tengri 2000"
(5.09.2000) In honor of the second millennium, the Central
Sports Club of the Army and Asia Tourism organized the first international
festival for climbers and trekkers "Festival Khan Tengri 2000"
from the 6th of August to the 27th of August 2000 in the Central
Tian Shan Mountains.
Author: Rinat Khaibullin
Three
weeks in solitude
(23.03.2000) In 1998, two climbers from St. Petersburg: Valery
Shamalo and Kirill Korabelnikov ascended peak 5013 by its North
Face. This peak is situated in Karavshin region, Turkestan ridge.
It was a second climb of D. Sidorov route (1992), 6B Russian Grade,
with a variation in the highest part.
Authors: Valery Shamalo and Kirill Korabelnikov
New
routes on the North Face of Svobodnaya Koreya peak (24.03.2000) "This (in the year of 2000) winter Krasnoyarsk
team climbed the new route on the North Face of Free Korea peak...
In February of 2000 a duo of N. Gutnik (Bishkek) and Eu. Novoseltzev
(Ekaterinburg) climbed Ruchkin route in 4 days with no preliminary
preparation of it..."
Compiled by Oleg Khvostenko, Krasnoyarsk
Fourteen
routes on the North Face of Svobodnaya Koreya peak (15.03.2000) "Svobodnaya Koreya" (Free Korea)
peak is a pearl of Aksai ravine (Tien Shan, Kirghiz ridge). There
are about 14 routes on its North Face. Many of them compete with
the hardest routes of Tien Shan, Alps and the Caucasus"
Compiled by Maxim Kostrov (Mountain.RU)
(12/2000) December 1999. Expedition is organized
to make the new route via center of NW face of Kukurtlu (4,639 m
/ 15,220 ft) - the most difficult wall in Kavkaz. Team members,
new route: Alexander Abramov, Iljas Tuhvatullin, Sergej Schepachkov,
Vasiliy Petrushev. Site of the
Expedition
Getting
ready for the Wall in winter (25.11.1999) Kukurtlu (4,639 m / 15,220 ft) is a
name of the west shoulder of
Elbrus massif (5,642m/18,510 ft), Europe's highest mountain. Its
North-West face is considered to be the most difficult wall in Kavkaz,
and probably in Europe.
September 1999. It took 6 days for the team headed by A.Abramov
to climb 20 pitches of one of the most difficult walls in Kavkaz
via Lukashvili route - the left part of the wall
