(7.04.2004)

Author: Olga Bibik, Krasnoyarsk

Impressions from Birmingham. The first stage of Bouldering World Cup.

Competitions were carried out with daring. The organization was excellent. The event attracted large crowds. Good music from Matrix-1 and also TATU's hits very much amuses us so far from the Native land. About 20 huge halls were open for spectators and participants of Outdoor exhibition. Representatives of 12 countries took part in the competitions (that does not frequently happen): there were participants from Netherlands, Australia, Spain, and despite of relative small number of the structure, the level of sportsmen was high enough, almost all strongest world bouldering climbers arrived.

The man's part of English combined team made the serious application for a victory in a semi-final. Parry showed well, qualifying first, and the idea, that at last Englishmen would win the invincible Frenchmen appeared, but he could not sustain that form in the final and as the result, Parry got the third place. English fans expressed their emotions very roughly: they supported all sportsmen certainly, but when the English climbers were sending the problems the viewers behaved tempestuously.

The artificial climbing wall first of all frightened with its overhangings, all the walls were at one level under the inclination, approximately, 30-35 degrees, with the big cornices and absence of a vertical; ribs were not used. All this affected on the problems: to send them seemed to need more force, than technique. English problems differ from those ones the Frenchmen and Italians set; but they do not concede them.

The Men's finals were just superb. Before ringing the final signal it was not clear who will be the prize-winners that gave intrigues and passion to the competitions.

New names in bouldering appeared: Jenny Lavarda, earlier took part exclusively in difficulty, has good strength reserve, for sure we will hear her name in bouldering in the future. The young French Emilie Abgrall won the fifth place conceded to prize-winners just little bit. Sandrine Levet, lost weight even more, is also in the excellent sports form, and for certain she is going to win this year's small and big cups in bouldering and in difficulty. And as for us, both Julia Abramchuk and me, I consider this start as a good beginning of this season.

In the Men's semi-final we could see the good form of Dulac (he has grown thin very much too), except for one block on which he was not looked well at all, the others Daniel sent superb and confidently sent last three enough serious final problems.

Jerome Meyer, the leader of a last year's Cup, was a little upset by the end of competitions with his unsuccessful attempts to send the problems. But everything turned out all right, without victims.