July, 19
14-00. A group led by Kadoshnikov ascended to camp 4 where found out deep snow and missed tent they had pitched. After radio communication they got GPS - coordinates of the tent but in vain and started to dig a cave.
16.-00. The guys finiched the cave and found the tent: all the equipment was practically crushed with snow, but oxygen cylinders, gas torches and saucepans appeared safe.
The summit push start is planned for July, 20 at 2.00 am.
A big group of climbers is going to set of together with Russians: Koreans with their group of high-altitude sherpas, Americans, Italians, a Portuguese and a climber from Iran. Four Czech climbers climbed up to the "shoulder" on Cessen route right to our C4. They probably, will join us tomorrow heading to the summit.
July, 20.
6-00. The team got up to the "bottle" - an abrupt couloir - where one of the sherpas of Korean expedition led to the summit two hours before our start, fell to his death.
8-00. The group worked in the «bottle's» most abrupt part and the Americans helped a lot.
10-00. THe hardest ice site of the couloir was done and further the terrain became more flat.
12-00. They traversed and made a few pitches upwards. Snow is very deep - the guys worked alone as the others ped behind.
14-00. There is about one hour left to the summit .
15-03. SUMMIT!!! The first two-man tean reached the summit, the second one is half-an-hour out of it!