By THE WESTERN BUTTRESS (KANT) ON THE LEFT (KANT po KANTU), 5 А *) (the route of A.Grishkevich and V.Volkodav, 1970)

The route starts at the base of the couloir, descending from the Green corner. Firstly move upwards by the slide-rocks and easy rocks, to the abrupt face. In its left part find a vertical crack (R0: 200 m , 30 0 , в / к ).

On the section R1-R2 move firstly upwards by the crack , then a little to the right (R1-R2: 20 m , 80 0 , V 20 m , 75 0 , IV).

On the section R2-R3 move upwards by the break, then to the right from the two overhanging bastions (R2-R3: 40 m , 70 0 , III).

On the section R3-R4 move a little to the left, then upwards by the chimney with the trees to the “cup” under the Green corner . Then go to the right to the big 40-meter ledge on the buttress (like a paw). It is a reason for its name (R3-R4: 80 m , 60-70 0 , III).

On the section R4-R5 move upwards on the Paw on the left side. Firstly go along the crack between The Paw and the wall. In its upper part the crack turns into a chimney (R4-R5: 40 m , 85 0 , V+).

On the section R5-R6 move from the Paw 5 m upwards by the abrupt wall, then there are 2 variations. The newer one goes upwards to the bolt ladder and goes 20 m upwards along it by the abrupt slab. The elder one goes to the right to the old bolt ladder. Go along it 20 m to the left and upwards ( R5-R6: 35 m , 85 0 , V+).

On the sections R6-R9 move firstly upwards, then traverse to the right under the overhanging wall till the big pine-tree. After the pine-tree go to the left and upwards, then move upwards by the middle-grade and more difficult rocks till the big ledge under the abrupt wall. Having got a 5-meter abrupt wall, move to the left and upwards. Go along the corner to the plateau (R6-R9: 130 m , 60-70 0 , III-IV).

Length of the main part of the route is about 370 m .

Time is 4 – 5 hours.

*) The difficult part of the route is equipped by the permanent belay points.


BY THE WESTERN BUTTRESS (KANT) ON THE RIGHT, 5 А (variation 5 Б ) *)

The route goes along the western buttress (Kant). It starts on the right side of the buttress base, 20 m to the right from the grotto (R0: 150 m , 20-30 0 , б / к ).

On the section R1-R3 it is difficult climbing by the 70-meter crack (R1-R3: 70 m , 85 0 , V+).

On the section R3-R4 go upwards and to the left by the middle-grade rocks to the break Лапа (Paw) ( R3-R4 : 40 m , 70-60 0 , III).

On the section R4-R5 go upwards to the Paw on the left. Firstly ascend the crack between the Paw and the wall. In its upper part the crack turns into a chimney (R4-R5: 40 m , 85 0 , V+).

On the section R5-R6 go 5 m upwards from the Paw by the abrupt wall, then there are 2 variations.

The newer one goes upwards to the bolt ladder and goes 20 m upwards along it by the abrupt slab. The elder one goes to the right to the old bolt ladder. Go along it 20 m to the left and upwards ( R5-R6: 35 m , 85 0 , V+).

On the sections R6-R9 move firstly upwards, then traverse to the right under the overhanging wall till the big pine-tree. After the pine-tree go to the left and upwards, then move upwards by the middle-grade and more difficult rocks till the big ledge under the abrupt wall. Having got a 5-meter abrupt wall, move to the left and upwards. Go along the corner to the plateau (R6 is the summit: 130 m , 60-70 0 , III-IV).

There is a more difficult variation of the section R3-R5 “ The Paw on the right ”. On the section R3-R4' go 10 m upwards and to the right to the crack, limiting the Paw on the right. Then there are 20 m of difficult climbing by the crack. The belay is in the base of the chimney (R3-R4': 10 m , 65 0 , V 20 m , 80 0 , VI).

On the section R4'-R5 go upwards 30 m by the chimney. Climbing is difficult (R4'-R5: 30 m , 85 0 , VI). Then move by the main route.

Length of the main part of the route is about 320 m .

Time is 4 – 5 ч .

*) The difficult part of the route is equipped by permanent belay points.