![]() Фото Анна Пиунова, Mountain.RU |
Швейцарец Клод Реми (Claude Remy) проделал невероятное количество работы, чтобы составить примерную хронологию развития свободного лазания (трудность и болдеринг)
| Болдеринг | |||
| Год | Категория | Клаймер | Название болдеринга |
1914 |
4B |
Jacques de Lépiney |
La Presta, Fontainebleau, France |
1934 |
5C |
Pierre Allain |
L’Angle Allain, Fontainebleau, France |
1946 |
6A |
René Ferlet |
La Marie Rose, Fontainebleau, France |
1950 |
6B |
Paul Jouy |
La Stalingrade, Fontainebleau, France |
|
6C/6C+ |
Paul Jouy |
Le Carre d’As, Fontainebleau, France |
1953 |
7A |
Robert Paragot |
La Joker, Fontainebleau, France |
1958 |
7B |
John Gill |
Gill Right Problem, Tetons, Wyoming, USA |
1959 |
7C |
John Gill |
Red Cross overhang, Tetons, Wyoming, USA |
1960 |
7A/+ |
Michel Libert |
L'Abattoir, Fontainebleau, France |
1975 |
8A |
Jim Holloway |
Trice (AHR), Flagstaff Mountains, Colorado, USA |
1977 |
8A+ |
Jim Holloway |
Slapshot, Dinosaur Mountain, Boulder, Colorado, USA |
1978 |
7B+ |
John Bachar, Ron Kauk |
Midnight Lightning, Camp 4, Yosemite, USA |
|
7C+ |
John Gill |
The Groove, Colorado, USA |
1979 |
7C |
John Long |
Speed of Light Dyno, Black Mountains, USA |
1983 |
7C |
Pierre Richard |
L’Abbé Resina, Fontainebleau, France |
1984 |
8A |
Jacky Godoffe |
C’était Demain, Fontainebleau, France |
1987 |
8A+ |
Ron Fawcett |
Careless Torque, Peak Districk, GB |
|
8A+ |
Jacky Godoffe |
Partenaire particulier, Fontainebleau, France |
1988 |
8A+ |
Alain Ghersen |
L’à plat du gain, Fontainebleau, France |
|
8A+ |
Jerry Moffat |
Superman, Cressbrook, GB |
1989 |
8B |
Jacky Godoffe |
Le mouvement perpetuel, Fontainebleau, France |
1992 |
8B |
Fred Nicole |
La danse des balrogs, Branson, Valais, Switzerland |
|
8B |
Philippe le Denmatt |
Enigma, Fontainebleau, France |
1993 |
8B |
Jacky Godoffe |
Fatman, Fontainebleau, France. |
|
8B |
Jerry Moffat |
The Dominator, Yosemite, USA |
1996 |
8B+ |
Fred Nicole |
Radja, Branson, Valais, Switzerland |
1998 |
7B+, F |
Lynn Hill |
Midnight lightning, Camp 4, Yosemite, USA |
1999 |
8A, F |
Catherine Miquel |
Duel, Fontainebleau, France |
2000 |
8C |
Fred Nicole |
Dreamtime, Cresciano, Switzerland (presa rotta: 8B+) |
|
8B+ |
Fred Nicole |
Oliphant's Dawn, Hueco Tanks, Texas, USA |
2002 |
8C |
Fred Nicole |
Monkey wedding, Rockland, Sud Africa |
|
8C |
Fred Nicole |
Black Eagle, Rockland, Sud Africa |
|
8B+, F |
Josune Bereziartu |
La traversia De Balzola, Baltoza, Spain |
|
8C |
Bernd Zangerl |
Viva l'evolution, Tyrol, Austria |
2003 |
8C, F |
Josune Bereziartu |
E la nave va, Lindental, Switzerland |
2004 |
8C+ |
Mauro Calibani |
Tonino 78, Meschia, Italy |
|
8C |
Fred Nicole |
Le poinçonneur des lilas, Jura Bâlois, Switzerland |
2005 |
8C |
Fred Nicole |
Terremer, Hueco Tanks, USA |
2008 |
8C+ |
Christian Core |
Gioia, Varazze, Italy |
| Трудность | |||
| Год | Категория | Клаймер | Маршрут |
1918 |
6a expo |
Emanuel Strubisch |
Wilder Kopf- Westkante / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany |
1930 |
6a+ expo |
Frank Elliot, Harry Dovere Gilbert Ellis |
Wall End Slab Direct at Stanage, Peak District, GB |
1936 |
6b/6b+ expo |
Willi Hänztschel |
Schrammtorwächter nord, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany |
1949 |
6c expo |
Peter Harding |
Demon Rib, Black Rocks, Peak District, GB |
1952 |
6c expo |
Wulf Scheffler |
Schwager-Talseite / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany |
1958 |
7a solo OS |
Don Whillans |
Goliath, Burbage, Peak District, GB |
1960 |
6c solo |
John Gill |
Final Exam, Castle Rock, Colorado, USA |
1961 |
7b+ solo |
John Gill |
Thimble, Needle, Dakota, USA (12m high) |
1970 |
7a |
John Stannard |
Foops, Gunks, USA |
1972 |
7b |
John Bragg |
Kansas City, Gunks, USA |
|
|
Alan Manson |
Invents the Figure of 4 (Yaniro)on the University of Leeds climbing wall |
1973 |
6c solo OS |
Jim Erickson |
Cassandre, USA (new route integral solo) |
1974 |
7c |
Steve Wunsch |
Supercrack, Gunks, USA |
1977 |
8a |
Peter Cleveland |
Phlogiston, Devil's Lake, USA |
|
7b, F |
Lynn Hill |
Shawangunk Ridge, Gunks, USA |
1979 |
7c, F |
Lynn Hill |
Ophir Broke, Telluride, Colorado, USA |
|
8a |
Tony Yaniro |
Grand Illusion, Sugar Loaf, California, USA |
|
7b+ expo |
Bernd Arnold |
Direkte Superlative, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany |
1980 |
7b+ OS |
Patrick Edlinger |
La polka des ringards, Buoux, France |
|
7b+ OS |
Patrick Edlinger |
Parties carrées, Buoux, France |
1981 |
7c+ expo |
Maurizio Zanolla (Manolo) |
Il mattino dei maghi, Totoga, Dolomiti, Italy |
1983 |
8a+ |
Jerry Moffat |
The Face, Altmühltal, Germany |
1984 |
8b |
Wolfgang Güllich |
Kanal im Rücken, Altmühltal, Germany |
|
8b |
Martin Scheel |
Vuelo a ciegas direct, Montserrat, Spain |
|
7c+ OS |
Jerry Moffat |
in USA e in Europa, citiamo Pol Pot, Verdon, France |
|
7c+, F |
Lynn Hill |
Vandals, Gunks, USA |
1985 |
8b+ |
Wolfgang Güllich |
Punks in the gym, Mount Arapiles, Australia |
|
8a solo |
Antoine Le Menestrel |
Revelations, Raven Tor, GB |
1986 |
8b+/c |
Antoine Le Menestrel |
Ravage, Chuenisberg, Jura, Switzerland |
|
8b+ |
Antoine Le Menestrel |
La rage de vivre, Buoux, France |
|
8b+ |
Antoine Le Menestrel |
La minimum, Buoux, France |
|
7c solo |
Wolfgang Güllich |
Weed Killer, Raven Tor, GB |
|
8a, F |
Luisa Iovane |
Come back, Valle San Nicolò, Italy |
1987 |
8c |
Wolfgang Güllich |
Wallstreet, Krottenseer Turm, Frankenjura, Germany |
|
8a+ solo |
Jean-Christophe Lafaille |
Rêve de gosse, Les Arnauds, France |
|
8a, F |
Christine Gambert + Lynn Hill |
Rêve de papillon, Buoux, France |
|
8a OS |
Antoine Le Menestrel |
Samizdat, Cimaï, France |
|
7b, F OS |
Lynn Hill |
plusieurs aux USA |
1988 |
8a+, F |
Catherine Destivelle |
Choucas, Buoux, France |
|
8b, F |
Isabelle Patissier |
Sortilèges, Cimaï, France |
|
8c |
Fred Nicole |
Anaïs et le canabis, St-Loup, Switzerland |
1990 |
8c+ |
Ben Moon |
Hubble, Raven Tor, GB |
|
8c/+ |
Jerry Moffat |
Liquid Ambar, Lower Pen Trwyn, Galles, GB |
|
8b+, F |
Lynn Hill |
Masse critique, Cimaï, France |
1991 |
9a |
Wolfgang Güllich |
Action Directe, Frankenjura, Germany |
|
8b solo |
Alain Robert |
Compilation, Omblèze, France |
1992 |
8a, F OS |
Lynn Hill |
Simon, Frankenjura, Germany |
|
9a |
Alex Huber |
Om, Triangel, Endstal, Germany (9a+) |
1993 |
9a |
Fred Nicole |
Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland |
|
9a |
Fred Rouhling |
Hugh, Les Eaux Claires, France |
|
8b OS |
Elie Chevieux |
Les liaisons dangereuses, Calanques, France |
1994 |
9a |
Alex Huber |
Weisse Rose, Schleierwasserfall, Austria |
|
8a/+, F OS |
Lynn Hill |
Overdose, Lourmarin, France |
1995 |
9b |
Fred Rouhling |
Akira, Grotte de Vilhonneur, Les Eaux Claires, France (NC) |
|
8b+ OS |
Elie Chevieux |
Massey Fergusson, Calanques, France |
1996 |
9a+ |
Alex Huber |
Open Air, Schleierwasserfall, Austria |
|
9a+ |
Neil Carson |
The big bang, Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales, GB |
|
8b+ OS |
Elie Chevieux |
Maldita Maria, Cuenca, Spain |
1997 |
9a/+ |
Fred Nicole |
Elfe, Grimsel, Switzerland. |
1998 |
8c, F |
Josune Bereziartu |
Honky Tonky, Onate, Spain. |
|
9a+ |
Bernabé Fernandez |
Orujo, Malaga, Spain (une prise visée, NC) |
1999 |
8b, F OS |
Katie Brown |
Omaha Beach, Red River Gorge, USA |
2000 |
8c+, F |
Josune Bereziartu |
Honky Mix, Onate, Spain |
|
8a+, F OS |
Josune Bereziartu |
Bon viatge, Terradets, Spain |
|
9a+ |
Eric Talmadge |
Im Reich des Shogun, Tüfleten, Switzerland |
2001 |
9a+ |
Chris Sharma |
Realization, Céüse, France |
2002 |
9a, F |
Josune Bereziartu |
Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland |
|
9a/+ |
Fred Nicole |
La chimère L2, St-Loup, Switzerland |
2003 |
8b solo |
Alex Huber |
Opportunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria |
|
8b+ solo |
Alex Huber |
Kommunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria |
|
9b |
Bernabé Fernandez |
Chilam Balam, Archidona (80m) |
|
9a+ |
Ramon Puigblanque |
La Rambla Ext, Siurana, Spain |
2004 |
8b, F OS |
Josune Bereziartu |
Steroid performance, Hourai, Giappone |
|
8c OS |
Yuji Hirayama |
White Zombie, Baltzola Spain |
|
9a/+ |
François Nicole |
Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland |
2005 |
9a/+, F |
Josune Bereziartu |
Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland |
|
9a+ |
Dave Graham |
Coup de grâce, Sonlerto, Switzerland |
2006 |
8b+, F OS |
Josune Bereziartu |
Hydrofobia, Montsant, Spain |
2007 |
8c+ OS |
Patxi Usobiaga |
Bizi Euskaraz, Etxauri, Spain |
2008 |
9b |
Chris Sharma |
Jumbo love, Clark Mountain, USA (75m) |
|
9b |
Chris Sharma |
Golpe de estado, Siurana, Spain |
|
9b |
Dani Andrada |
Delincuente natural, Rodellar, Spain |
2009 |
9b |
Chris Sharma |
Neanderthal, Santa Linya, Spain |
2010 |
8c, F OS |
Charlotte Durif |
Les rois du pétrole, Pic St-Loup, France |
2011 |
9b |
Adam Ondra |
La Capella, Siurana, Spain |
|
9b |
Adam Ondra |
Chaxi Raxi, Oliana, Spain |
|
9b |
Adam Ondra |
La planta de shiva, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain |
|
9b |
Chris Sharma |
First round First minute, Margalef, Spain |
2012 |
9b+ |
Adam Ondra |
The Change, Flatanger, Norway |
