Pogrebetsky peak North Face (6487 m, Central Tien-Shan) Expedition

On July 15 new high-altitude expedition of a picked team of Krasnoyarsk region started. The aim is Pogrebetsky peak North Face (Central Tien-Shan, upper reaches of Southern Inylchek). The ascent is stated on Russian Championship of Russia, high-altitude -technical ascent class.

Nikolay Zaharov, the coach Krasnoyarsk team:
"This summer season Krasnoyarsk team aims to try the North Face of Pogrebetsky peak. The mountain of 6487 meters is located in Meridional ridge of Central Tien-Shan.
The unique ridge route was opened from the West in 1980. The Northern Face is still unclimbed but has been tried already three times. In 1984 a team from Moscow, in 1989 - a team from Krasnoyarsk participating under the colors of Russia and in 1991- a team of Irkutsk area declared this wall on the Championship of the USSR attempted the Wall but failed.

We rested against this wall in 1988, the next year tried to climb it. By that time we already had had experience of opening new routes on north faces of Khan Tengri, Revolution, Moskovskaya Pravda Peaks and expected to get the summit in 6 - 7 days, but the business did not pan out.

The bottom half of the route presents snow, ice, terrain of altitude difference about 1000 meters.
The other half - an abrupt rocky wall of about 800 meters altitude difference. Technical climbing is very complex. A surface problem - the cracks are filled with sand and it is just impossible to set there anything.
In 1989 the wall seemed us hard to climb.

The team started on July, 15 from Krasnoyarsk planning to make training in Ala Archa and to fly to the Southern Inylchek area on July 30.

Basic team structure: Alexander Mihalitsin - the captain
Vladimir Arkhipov
Vladimir Gunko
Andrey Litvinov
Sergey Cherezov
Alexander Janushevich
Also are included:
Doctor Alexander Kukharev (a.k.a. "doctor Bormental"),
Cook Oksana Cherezova,
Coaches Nikolay Zakharov, Valery Balezin.