22.07.06 Saturday. A day of rest and getting in ABC (it takes 3 hours). Under the forecast since yesterday the weather window for 5-6 days opened. And cook Alyam whispered that it would continue already up to July 29. Gia, Yatsek from Poland and I are going to summit.

23.07.06 Sunday. Our group and the team led by Uteshev (but without their doc Naumenko Sergey) reached C1. Having climbed up to ABC Sergey "became sad" and descended to BC. The Australian and the Scot went ahead raining stones all the time, in the result Kulbachenko has got wounded back of his hand. We met a group led by Foigt descending to BC to have a rest after setting C3 at 7400 and spending the night there.

24.07.06 Monday. Getting C2 (6700). Weather favors highly. This hot situation leaves from under the control. Mountain "fetches up" with stones. 7 climbers - the Italian, Canadian, Irish, high-altitude sherpas- descended pouring stones. Because of that Gia left downwards with our phone. And I remained. Really I am lost without a phone. Finally we four together appeared in C2 in one tent: Uteshev-Kuznetsov-Kulbachenko and I.

25.07.06 Tuesday. Getting in C3 (7400). Two Italians, husband and his wife, and a Swiss girl set off to C4 (7800). Yesterday 7 guys descended. Off the wall, really! Because they had left all together and were in identical conditions. But all of us have different moral courage, great or weak. Weather is divine. Too good to be true. I cannot believe I would see it again some odd at such altitude on this mountain. We climb together the American Charles and his high-altitude porter loaded up to the eyeballs. In result he hardly climbed and kicked the bucket. Was provided medical assistance at the scene (stiff doze of medicine and oxygen).

26.07.06 Wednesday. According to the plan - leaving depot in C4. The Swiss girl had to descend because she was broken down through the night cold. But the Italians are climbing upper set off at 2.00 at night. We, three together, Peter-Viktor and I climbed up to 7400 and left depot. Peter hardly saw a man above melted into the mist. We were waiting for an hour, but it was useless. Then we descended to C2. By the way, it is not enough snow and it sounds differently from the previous information given by already descended climbers.

27.07.06 Thursday. Descent to BC. Because of falling stones it was not a pleasure. And in ABC we met two Italians waiting for the married couple. They descended in 4 hours indeed. Yesterday, at 13.00, they summited the mountain. We congratulated them with all our heart. Now there is nobody on the mountain. But seeing our brave mood and our camps, it seems many climbers decided not to hurry up with departure and to make one more attempt to climb K2.

28.07.06 Friday. A day of rest in BC. Good rest for 4-5 days is just the thing for us. Only one question- what does the weather send us?
It is warm below, but upper it is already overcast and a wind blows. At 16.00 the consultation concerning weather and our working will be held. Everything is OK.

Yours faithfully, Sergey Bogomolov