А call on August, 14, 16.35 Moscow time:
"We have already spent the third night at 5300 meters.
Practically 16 pitches are fixed up to the point 3 (see on the photo: there is a small triangular glacier hardly below).
Tomorrow we set off to this glacier to spend the night there. The altitude is approximately 5700-5800m. Horizontal terrains change to vertical sites.
We have climbed already 2,5 km of fixed ropes and as much again we have to climb.
Weather is different: a rattling hurricane force wind and/or snowing, but basically the weather is quite good.
Under the forecasts from Bishkek tomorrow weather promises to be clear .... "
There was a break in the conversation.