20.01.07
Today finally action day! Exactly as the forecast of Karl Gabl predicted, we get a sunny day.
E started to climb and transport all our equipment on the mountain in order to establish our future high camps. Our packs were heavy because we had a lot of equipment, mat, stove pot, sleeping bags, tends, climbing equipment and personal equipment. We started at 10:45 am because we spent some time to prepare all the things and also to enjoy the sun…
At the beginning we made trail in the fresh snow and than we stated to climb on icy slopes. Around 1 hour below C1 we stopped and left our packs, fixing them at 1 ice crew .
In fact were 2:00 p.m and we decided to come back to BC before the darkness. NO fix rope we found and used, only alpine style, and also the descent took us time and concentration. In fact the slope are very steep and is forbidden to slip…
The Temperature this morning was -30 degree and during the day arrived till -19 degree. Tomorrow if the weather will remain good (as predict) we will return on the mountain and continue our effort to transport higher all the equipment. For sure also tomorrow the descent will be delicate and not easy.

19.01.2007
Also today as yesterday we get a bad weather day to spend here in base camp. The weather forecast also today had been exact and this morning we had light snow, wind and low visibility. In any case we are in good mod and we have also fantasy to find something to do to spend our time. That’s why at -22° degrees I decided to wash my hairs and shave, so I will be ready to start tomorrow and climb fast in case of good weather.

18.01.2007
The bad weather already came back. Exactly as the forecast we had from our “guru” Karl Gabl in Innsbruck, we wake up with strong wind also in base camp and cloudy sky. It should be the same also tomorrow but Saturday (if the weather forecast will be exact) we should have good conditions for 2 days. Today I and Shaheen went again across the Glacier following the route I found yesterday in the glacier and ice towers, and we marked it better with flags and stone towers. Approaching the Broad Peak face we came back to BC due the very strong wind. It had been a way to maintain our physical conditions to be ready to “run” during the blue sky days. All our team is in good shape and in good mood. We are also surprised how well are working or new Canon High Definition videocameras and photograph machine in spite of the extreme cold and hard conditions. If I have to identify the best product we have here, it’s for sure the HV10 High Definition videocamera. It never had problems of cold, condensation, battery duration and really it take a supreme quality of mages. I hope it will continue to work so well also with -40°/-50° degrees.

17.01.2007
Finally we get the first day of good weather with blue sky. All around us we have magnificent mountains. Today it had been also the first “action” day. In fact I started at 9 a.m to look for a safe way to cross the glacier we have between us and the mountain, Broad Peak. I spent only 2 hours to find and mark with flags all the way to the base of the face. At lunch time I was back in base camp, very happy for the nice day and the good job. Today I had been alone to work because Shaheen was sick. He was coughing during last night and I advice him to remain here to keep warm.
The weather forecast said that the next 2 days will be bad weather but in case it will be wrong we will start to climb along the 1957 Buhl/Diemberger route.

16.01.2007
Third day in Base camp. The weather is still bad and we can’t see the sun. For that reason the temperature is extremely cold also during the day. This morning at 8:30 we get -30° degrees. In the upper part of the mountain the wind is still strong and we can hear the noise here in BC. Yesterday we worked to fix better and arrange some comforts in the kitchen tend and in my tend, from where I’m writing you. Tomorrow I and Shaheen will start for a fast climb till C1 to see how are the condition of the mountain and also to test our physical condition. We will come back for the night because we are not yet fully acclimatized due the helicopter flight who transported us from 2000 meters from Skardu till 5000 in 1 hour…..

15.01.2007
Finally we arrived at the Base camp!! Yesterday we took the army helicopter and we arrived here at Broad Peak base camp nearly 5000 meters of altitude. We nearly gift up after 10 days waiting in Skardu and honestly we were quite worry about the future of the expedition. But yesterday in a cloudy day we get the surprise. The Helicopter transported all our equipment and us till BC. The temperature yesterday was -25 in the afternoon and -30 in the night. There is very few snow and the conditions of the mountain looks good but we can hear the strong wind in high altitude till basecamp...