Ak-Su-2007: Weather favored to us
10.02.07. Today Evgeny Dmitrienko and Nikolay Zakharov arrived by train to Krasnoyarsk from Novosibirsk. They were met by friends and doctor Bormental. As they told Evgeny had been working above the Krest (Cross), there where Chaplinsky's route becomes to be easier, on the flattening, and placing an ice-screw with two tools when an ice lens was pricked out. The bottom ice-screw (made in Ekaterinburg!) was broken. Evgeny fell down up to the bolt and his right crampon caughted the wall in the beginning of falling. As the result: complete rupture of ligament and he is guided t be operated for that. He keeps up his end. But his disappointment is understandable. The knowing people explained that Odintsov's route is simple in the bottom part, but then becomes harder. On the contrary Chaplinsky's route is. The most difficult part - its bottom site. The two-man team climbed ahead with the fantastic speed: on average 6 pitches a day. For the fourth day it had been done more than half of the route, all the difficulties had been already behind...
In Bishkek the guys met a team from Novosibirsk that is going to launch a challenge against Ak-Su via the line more to the left of Odintsov - Ruchkin's route.
Wish them good luck.
08.02.07 The guys arrived to Bishkek. And tomorrow will leave home.
Summary:
Object: Mt. Ak-Su North face
Route: Odintsov - Ruchkin's route.
Days: 9 days- ascent, 1 day.
Weather favored to us. There were only two days of bad weather. One of them - the summit push day. All the climbers feel all right now. During the ascent Evgeny Belyaev took sick a little and the burden of leading came upon Vladimir Gunko and Igor Loginov. They were in fighting trim.
Route extent: 34 pitches (up to the ridge),climbed for 8 days, speed: on average 4 pitches - about 200m- a day.
Descent: via the same route as the ascent.
The team would like to thank all of you who helped the guys, first of all Valery Balezin, Nikolay Zakharov, Alexey Komissarov, Vladimir Arkhipov, Evgeny Dmitrienko, Nikolay Naumov, Andrey Desyatkov and Rock Pillars. And also to those who kept their fingers and followed the ascent.