25.06.07 Group led by Totmyanin has changed Bolotov's group and continued fixing the rope above С2: a duo Totmyanin-Shamalo made three pitches more and got a snow ledge where it was possible to set to shape a platform under a tent Solo +, Volodin and Komarov made a cargo climb from С2. The three climbers stayed for the night at С3 Komarov descended to С2. The group led by Gleb Sokolov hauled the gear from ABC to С1.
26.06.07 A two-man team Volodin-Shamalo made three pitches above С3, and Totmyanin and Komarov lifted the gear from С2 to С3. The three climbers spent the night at С3
Komarov descended to С2 where the advanced two climbers of the next group (Sokolov, Gorelik) had settled down.
27.06.07 Totmyanin's group climbed one more pitch hauling the gear to the top point of fixed ropes and descended to ABC. The duo Sokolov-Gorelik lifted the load from С2 to С3 and got the gear to the top point of fixed ropes for depot and stayed for the night at С3. The duo Vinogradsky-Ivanov lifted the gear from С1 to С2.
28.06.07 The duo Sokolov-Gorelik made one pitch more and descended to С2, the duo Vinogradsky-Ivanov lifted a cargo from С2 to С3 and stayed for the night in С3. Totmyanin's group descended to BC for rest Shabalin's set off from BC to С1. By the evening the weather deteriorated. It was raining in BC, and in ABC and above began snowing and a strong wind.
29.06.07 Sokolov's group descended to ABC, Shabalin's group, despite of bad weather, set off to С2.
30.06.07 Weather began to change for the better: snowfall stopped, overcast scattered. Shabalin's group ascended to С3, and expanded the site for a more capacious tent up to 6 people.
The duo Vinogradsky-Ivanov together with the senior coach and the doctor descended to BC, and the duo Sokolov-Gorelik remained in ABC for secure of the advanced group.
Tomorrow, if weather hold, Shabalin's group will continue working on the route, and Bolotov's group will set off to ABC.
After the first abrupt rocky belt of the bastion psychologically identical to Jannu North Face headwall, not less hard rocks of bastion's central part at 7000 m and higher begin. The skill of good climbing but also "to hold" cold and high altitude is required here. The guys hope to get altitude by free climbing if the weather permits. The wall is tough with many long vertical cracks and ice-filled corners: in a word, it's open space for drytolling. Team's mood is fighting.
Victor Kozlov, Nikolay Totmyanin.
K2 West Face Direct Russian National expedition: Weather began to change for the better. Shabalin's group is settling in С3 and going to continue work on the route. The rocks of the central part of the bastion are ahead.