Автор: Клод Реми , Швейцария
Эволюция фри-клайминга
Луиза Иоване и Линн Хилл
Фото Анна Пиунова, Mountain.RU
Швейцарец Клод Реми (Claude Remy ) проделал невероятное количество работы, чтобы составить примерную хронологию развития свободного лазания (трудность и болдеринг)
Результат - в сводной таблице
Болдеринг
Год
Категория
Клаймер
Название болдеринга
1914
4B
Jacques de Lépiney
La Presta, Fontainebleau, France
1934
5C
Pierre Allain
L’Angle Allain, Fontainebleau, France
1946
6A
René Ferlet
La Marie Rose, Fontainebleau, France
1950
6B
Paul Jouy
La Stalingrade, Fontainebleau, France
6C/6C+
Paul Jouy
Le Carre d’As, Fontainebleau, France
1953
7A
Robert Paragot
La Joker, Fontainebleau, France
1958
7B
John Gill
Gill Right Problem, Tetons, Wyoming, USA
1959
7C
John Gill
Red Cross overhang, Tetons, Wyoming, USA
1960
7A/+
Michel Libert
L'Abattoir, Fontainebleau, France
1975
8A
Jim Holloway
Trice (AHR), Flagstaff Mountains, Colorado, USA
1977
8A+
Jim Holloway
Slapshot, Dinosaur Mountain, Boulder, Colorado, USA
1978
7B+
John Bachar, Ron Kauk
Midnight Lightning, Camp 4, Yosemite, USA
7C+
John Gill
The Groove, Colorado, USA
1979
7C
John Long
Speed of Light Dyno, Black Mountains, USA
1983
7C
Pierre Richard
L’Abbé Resina, Fontainebleau, France
1984
8A
Jacky Godoffe
C’était Demain, Fontainebleau, France
1987
8A+
Ron Fawcett
Careless Torque, Peak Districk, GB
8A+
Jacky Godoffe
Partenaire particulier, Fontainebleau, France
1988
8A+
Alain Ghersen
L’à plat du gain, Fontainebleau, France
8A+
Jerry Moffat
Superman, Cressbrook, GB
1989
8B
Jacky Godoffe
Le mouvement perpetuel, Fontainebleau, France
1992
8B
Fred Nicole
La danse des balrogs, Branson, Valais, Switzerland
8B
Philippe le Denmatt
Enigma, Fontainebleau, France
1993
8B
Jacky Godoffe
Fatman, Fontainebleau, France.
8B
Jerry Moffat
The Dominator, Yosemite, USA
1996
8B+
Fred Nicole
Radja, Branson, Valais, Switzerland
1998
7B+, F
Lynn Hill
Midnight lightning, Camp 4, Yosemite, USA
1999
8A, F
Catherine Miquel
Duel, Fontainebleau, France
2000
8C
Fred Nicole
Dreamtime, Cresciano, Switzerland (presa rotta: 8B+)
8B+
Fred Nicole
Oliphant's Dawn, Hueco Tanks, Texas, USA
2002
8C
Fred Nicole
Monkey wedding, Rockland, Sud Africa
8C
Fred Nicole
Black Eagle, Rockland, Sud Africa
8B+, F
Josune Bereziartu
La traversia De Balzola, Baltoza, Spain
8C
Bernd Zangerl
Viva l'evolution, Tyrol, Austria
2003
8C, F
Josune Bereziartu
E la nave va, Lindental, Switzerland
2004
8C+
Mauro Calibani
Tonino 78, Meschia, Italy
8C
Fred Nicole
Le poinçonneur des lilas, Jura Bâlois, Switzerland
2005
8C
Fred Nicole
Terremer, Hueco Tanks, USA
2008
8C+
Christian Core
Gioia, Varazze, Italy
Трудность
Год
Категория
Клаймер
Маршрут
1918
6a expo
Emanuel Strubisch
Wilder Kopf- Westkante / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1930
6a+ expo
Frank Elliot, Harry Dovere Gilbert Ellis
Wall End Slab Direct at Stanage, Peak District, GB
1936
6b/6b+ expo
Willi Hänztschel
Schrammtorwächter nord, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1949
6c expo
Peter Harding
Demon Rib, Black Rocks, Peak District, GB
1952
6c expo
Wulf Scheffler
Schwager-Talseite / Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1958
7a solo OS
Don Whillans
Goliath, Burbage, Peak District, GB
1960
6c solo
John Gill
Final Exam, Castle Rock, Colorado, USA
1961
7b+ solo
John Gill
Thimble, Needle, Dakota, USA (12m high)
1970
7a
John Stannard
Foops, Gunks, USA
1972
7b
John Bragg
Kansas City, Gunks, USA
Alan Manson
Invents the Figure of 4 (Yaniro)on the University of Leeds climbing wall
1973
6c solo OS
Jim Erickson
Cassandre, USA (new route integral solo)
1974
7c
Steve Wunsch
Supercrack, Gunks, USA
1977
8a
Peter Cleveland
Phlogiston, Devil's Lake, USA
7b, F
Lynn Hill
Shawangunk Ridge, Gunks, USA
1979
7c, F
Lynn Hill
Ophir Broke, Telluride, Colorado, USA
8a
Tony Yaniro
Grand Illusion, Sugar Loaf, California, USA
7b+ expo
Bernd Arnold
Direkte Superlative, Elbsandsteingebirge, Germany
1980
7b+ OS
Patrick Edlinger
La polka des ringards, Buoux, France
7b+ OS
Patrick Edlinger
Parties carrées, Buoux, France
1981
7c+ expo
Maurizio Zanolla (Manolo)
Il mattino dei maghi, Totoga, Dolomiti, Italy
1983
8a+
Jerry Moffat
The Face, Altmühltal, Germany
1984
8b
Wolfgang Güllich
Kanal im Rücken, Altmühltal, Germany
8b
Martin Scheel
Vuelo a ciegas direct, Montserrat, Spain
7c+ OS
Jerry Moffat
in USA e in Europa, citiamo Pol Pot, Verdon, France
7c+, F
Lynn Hill
Vandals, Gunks, USA
1985
8b+
Wolfgang Güllich
Punks in the gym, Mount Arapiles, Australia
8a solo
Antoine Le Menestrel
Revelations, Raven Tor, GB
1986
8b+/c
Antoine Le Menestrel
Ravage, Chuenisberg, Jura, Switzerland
8b+
Antoine Le Menestrel
La rage de vivre, Buoux, France
8b+
Antoine Le Menestrel
La minimum, Buoux, France
7c solo
Wolfgang Güllich
Weed Killer, Raven Tor, GB
8a, F
Luisa Iovane
Come back, Valle San Nicolò, Italy
1987
8c
Wolfgang Güllich
Wallstreet, Krottenseer Turm, Frankenjura, Germany
8a+ solo
Jean-Christophe Lafaille
Rêve de gosse, Les Arnauds, France
8a, F
Christine Gambert + Lynn Hill
Rêve de papillon, Buoux, France
8a OS
Antoine Le Menestrel
Samizdat, Cimaï, France
7b, F OS
Lynn Hill
plusieurs aux USA
1988
8a+, F
Catherine Destivelle
Choucas, Buoux, France
8b, F
Isabelle Patissier
Sortilèges, Cimaï, France
8c
Fred Nicole
Anaïs et le canabis, St-Loup, Switzerland
1990
8c+
Ben Moon
Hubble, Raven Tor, GB
8c/+
Jerry Moffat
Liquid Ambar, Lower Pen Trwyn, Galles, GB
8b+, F
Lynn Hill
Masse critique, Cimaï, France
1991
9a
Wolfgang Güllich
Action Directe, Frankenjura, Germany
8b solo
Alain Robert
Compilation, Omblèze, France
1992
8a, F OS
Lynn Hill
Simon, Frankenjura, Germany
9a
Alex Huber
Om, Triangel, Endstal, Germany (9a+)
1993
9a
Fred Nicole
Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland
9a
Fred Rouhling
Hugh, Les Eaux Claires, France
8b OS
Elie Chevieux
Les liaisons dangereuses, Calanques, France
1994
9a
Alex Huber
Weisse Rose, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
8a/+, F OS
Lynn Hill
Overdose, Lourmarin, France
1995
9b
Fred Rouhling
Akira, Grotte de Vilhonneur, Les Eaux Claires, France (NC)
8b+ OS
Elie Chevieux
Massey Fergusson, Calanques, France
1996
9a+
Alex Huber
Open Air, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
9a+
Neil Carson
The big bang, Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales, GB
8b+ OS
Elie Chevieux
Maldita Maria, Cuenca, Spain
1997
9a/+
Fred Nicole
Elfe, Grimsel, Switzerland.
1998
8c, F
Josune Bereziartu
Honky Tonky, Onate, Spain.
9a+
Bernabé Fernandez
Orujo, Malaga, Spain (une prise visée, NC)
1999
8b, F OS
Katie Brown
Omaha Beach, Red River Gorge, USA
2000
8c+, F
Josune Bereziartu
Honky Mix, Onate, Spain
8a+, F OS
Josune Bereziartu
Bon viatge, Terradets, Spain
9a+
Eric Talmadge
Im Reich des Shogun, Tüfleten, Switzerland
2001
9a+
Chris Sharma
Realization, Céüse, France
2002
9a, F
Josune Bereziartu
Bain de sang, St-Loup, Switzerland
9a/+
Fred Nicole
La chimère L2, St-Loup, Switzerland
2003
8b solo
Alex Huber
Opportunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
8b+ solo
Alex Huber
Kommunist, Schleierwasserfall, Austria
9b
Bernabé Fernandez
Chilam Balam, Archidona (80m)
9a+
Ramon Puigblanque
La Rambla Ext, Siurana, Spain
2004
8b, F OS
Josune Bereziartu
Steroid performance, Hourai, Giappone
8c OS
Yuji Hirayama
White Zombie, Baltzola Spain
9a/+
François Nicole
Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland
2005
9a/+, F
Josune Bereziartu
Bimba luna, St-Loup, Switzerland
9a+
Dave Graham
Coup de grâce, Sonlerto, Switzerland
2006
8b+, F OS
Josune Bereziartu
Hydrofobia, Montsant, Spain
2007
8c+ OS
Patxi Usobiaga
Bizi Euskaraz, Etxauri, Spain
2008
9b
Chris Sharma
Jumbo love, Clark Mountain, USA (75m)
9b
Chris Sharma
Golpe de estado, Siurana, Spain
9b
Dani Andrada
Delincuente natural, Rodellar, Spain
2009
9b
Chris Sharma
Neanderthal, Santa Linya, Spain
2010
8c, F OS
Charlotte Durif
Les rois du pétrole, Pic St-Loup, France
2011
9b
Adam Ondra
La Capella, Siurana, Spain
9b
Adam Ondra
Chaxi Raxi, Oliana, Spain
9b
Adam Ondra
La planta de shiva, Villanueva del Rosario, Spain
9b
Chris Sharma
First round First minute, Margalef, Spain
2012
9b+
Adam Ondra
The Change, Flatanger, Norway
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