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Interview: Elena Ovchinnikova

Interview withThomas Huber


Falls are majestic in the spring and
early summer and almost completely disappear in August.
Thomas Huber (T.H). - I used to take part in all-comers competitions for my regional team together with 2 or 3 hundred of starters. Once I shot out after a mistake in "qualification" contest, but next time I won the silver in German competitions. I have never been mad about competitions, the dialogue with rocks is always more important for me.

E.O. - As far as I remember the German team was very strong, motivated, always ready to take a lead at struggling for a victory. For example, Marietta Uden - even when we were just climbing together, there was always a competitive moment: who will win?

T.H. - Yes, and it was generally the main reason to give up on taking part in competitions. Rock-climbing is not a struggle, it... it just a life, my way of life. It is much more than competitions. Certainly, if you are really talented you continue to move in this sphere, but I have never been a super-sportsman... Well, in national competitions I really was among finalists, but… You know, this constant expectation in the isolation zone when the sun is shining and the rocks are warm outside the window. There was my mind...

E.О. - Well, if so what is the reason forced you to be motivated to train so purposefully?

T.H. - I trained together with my brother, we supported each other by way of discipline. Wolfgang Gullich has always been our "idol", the role model for me and my brother. And all these histories about climbing in Yosemite, ascents we used to be het up about since our childhood became a good motivation as well. By the way in fact we did not stew in our own juice: we joined a group of rock-climbers, strong sportsmen, who became to be our instructors. Thus the vector was directed not ahead sports rock-climbing. Sports rock-climbing only helps to get the best shape for ascents.

Thomas - on the right.

E.О. - I remember that your legendary System Training helped me very much: 6 years ago I sent the letter to Alex with the request to tell about training process and it was magnificent! But... There is a "but": muscles became to be very volumetric, absolutely unwomanly (smiling).

T.H. - Yes, this training board made with my own proper hands first appeared in my room and it was the very first System Board in the world. To tell the truth, it was not our invent but Rudi Klausner's. That time he was the trainer of German National Team.

E.O. - Wow, Rudi! I know Rudi, of course.

T.H. - (smiling) Well, everybody knows Rudi. We consulted with him on how to train better, took his advices about different techniques and I decided: I must construct the System Board.

Lena Ovchinnikova in camp four.
I, Alex and even involved in the process our uncle (actually, it was he who gave me money for that) got on the stick. I have never, never dreamed that this System Board would win such great popularity all over the world.

E.O. - Yes, in Russia the System enjoys the big popularity too.

T.H. - In Russia, in Germany, in America - look, there is a System Board at each climbing stand now. (with enthusiasm) A pinch, another pinch more, a crimper suitable for one-two fingers, - and your abdominal muscles start to work, you have to move up your body and to continue climbing.
The secret is in that you train your strengths and weaknesses involving both the great and the little muscles. It is possible to tell that it appeared advanced Campus Board... First Rudi suggested hangs on various holds then we decided that the ideal training for all groups of muscles is when you climb instead of hanging or jumping from edge to edge.

Rock-climbing camp-site
with boulders near to El Capitan.
From physical standpoint rock-climbing is a very delicate sport. Sending boulders you subconsciously avoid "unloved" holds: someone hates sloppers or prefers them, and so on. But here you train all moves and all grounds of muscles making natural "rocky" body movement.

E.О. - I have already asked Alex about that, and would like to put the same question to you: You are well-known person. And has your glory changed you and affected your attitude to your friends?

T.H. - (sighing) Honestly speaking I do not feel myself like I am a Hollywood star. That has not affected on my life at all, and I have got problems usual for the common man. Sometimes, to tell the truth, journalists make me nervous. I am not a shy guy, but I would not like to be Huber Allmighty.

E.O. If you come to Russia sometime, you will be Huber Allmighty (smiling)

T.H. - Really??? It's intriguing.

E.О. - Yes... You are well-know here, relatively speaking! Mounain.RU is the biggest and the most popular Russian-language website about mountains where articles about trainings, ascents, people are published... And there have already been some publications about you, Alex is in the confidence of that. People are interested: are you going to visit Crimea and to taste our favorite rocks? Valley


Morning in Yosemite.
T.H. - Perhaps, in one fine day... You never know if your luck holds. The problem is in that I am constant traveling, so I try to use any opportunity to stay with my family.
I married this year, I have two sons (age three and seven). I am trying to bring along two promising young sportsmen: skiing, snowboarding, rock-climbing.

E.О. - Take out your children! It's a wonderful place for all family indeed...

T.H. - Yes, actually, it would be really good! But I have planned out my time till the April. Let's see how matters stand.

E.О. - And the very personal questions, I have asked them Alex too. To what church do you belong?

T.H. - I am Catholic. The Christian, Catholic, and I trust in God.

E.О. - Do you meditate or are you engaged in yoga?

T.H. - I meditate surely. But it's more likely a part of training process. I am not new to yoga, I think, that yoga helps me in climbing... It is very important for me to clear my consciousness periodically.

E.О. - And does meditation help you?

T.H. - Yes! It helps very much ... you've just said about our popularity. Just fancy! I arrive to America, and a heap of reporters and their publications jostle me... I can get my head addle-brained. Certainly, it is important to be purged of that.

E.О. - And the last traditional question: what is the happiest event in your life?

T.H. - Birth of my children (smiling). My sons.

E.О. - I would like to congratulate you...! See you in Yosemite and in the Crimea!


Valley.


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