Aladagar. Part 1.

The passes of the ravine Northern Jalik

The pass N7 (3460,~2А-graded)
It connects the right source of the Northern Jalik with the plato Yedi Goller, it is of North-Western – South-Eastern orientation. The pass is one-side, the main difficulty is the extensive couloir of the North-Western side. According to the Turkish scheme, this pass is gone through (at least, in summer).

The North-Western view.

The pass N8 (3500,~3А-graded)
It connects the circus of the right source of the Northern Jalik with the North-Western circus of the plato Yedi Goller, it is of West – Eastern orientation. The pass is one-side, the main difficulty is the Western wall. The information about passing it through hasn’t been found.

The Western view

The Western view.

The North-Eastern view, from the Southern slope of the pass N6.

The North-Eastern view, from the slope of the peak 3545.

The pass N11 (3500, 1B-graded)
It connects the circus of the Southern Jalik with the valley Mur, it is of North-Southern orientation. It is traditionally used for approaching to the South-Eastern range of peak Kizil-Kia during the ascent to it by “classical” route from the South-Eastern range. The information about passing it through hasn’t been found. In 2000 the tourist from Moscow Jury Bratkov climbed the pass from the Southern side.

The Southern view from the slope of the pass Avcibell (N21)

The Northern view from the circus of the Southern Jalik.

The summer Northern view from the circus of the Southern Jalik.

The pass Celikbuyduran (N12, 3540, 1А-graded).
It connects the circus of the Southern Jalik with the plato Yedi Goller, it is of West-Eastern orientation. It is traditionally used for commercial tours along the Aladagar. As for Russian tourists, it was passed for the first time in August 2003 from West to East by the group of the tourists of Moscow school №57 under the direction of Peter Sergeev.

The summer Western view, from the circus of the Southern Jalik.

The Western slope.

North-Eastern view, from the pass N6.

The Eastern view from the plato Yedi Goller.

The Eastern view from the plato Yedi Goller.

The passes of the valley Mur

The pass Gurtepe (N14, 3345, 1B-graded)
It connects the valley Mur with the circus of the sources of the river Adjiman (the Southern slopes of the Aladagar), it is of West-Eastern orientation. The pass on the Turkish scheme is marked as an unnamed gate. As for Russian tourists it was passed for the first time in may 2004 by the group of MAI tourclub under the direction of A. Lebedev.

View from the valley Mur, from the turning to the pass Avcibell (N21).

View from the valley Mur, the beginning of the route.

The Western slope.

The Eastern slope.

The pass N15 (3300, 1B-graded)
It connects the circus of the Eastern source of the valley Mur with the circus of the source of the river Adjiman (the Southern slopes of the Aladagar), it is of South-Western – North-Eastern orientation. It was explored from the North by the group of MAI tourclub under the direction of A. Lebedev in May 2003. The group under the direction of D. Chijik was first group from Russia that went through this pass, it happened in May 2005. From the North-East along the vertical rocks to right and upwards a snow couloir is placed. The slope is about 30-35 degrees. The length – 100-150 meters. From the upper rocks stones can be falling. At the end of the couloir, above the zone of the lower rocks, suddenly we came across the ice. Up to the saddle there was about 120 meters of fixed ropes. The slope there is about 25-30 degrees. The descent is easy, it is a snow slope of up to 25 degrees.

The South-Eastern side.

The North-Eastern side.

The pass N17 (3260,~1B-graded)
It connects the circus of the Eastern source of the valley Mur with the source of the river Hayhaydere (the Southern slopes of the Aladagar), it is of North-Southern orientation and on the Turkish scheme is marked as an unnamed gate. The pass was explored from the North by the group of MAI tourclub under the direction of A. Lebedev in May 2003. The information about passing it hasn’t been found.

The Northern view.

The Northern view.

The passes N18 (3260,~2B-graded) and N19 (3300,~1B-graded)
Two parallel passes N18 and N19 are connecting the circus of the Eastern source of the valley Mur with the left source of the river Akdere (the Southern slopes of the Aladagar), both of the passes are of North-South orientation. They were explored from the North by the group of MAI tourclub under the direction of A. Lebedev in May 2003. The information about passing them hasn’t been found.

The view from the slope of the pass Gurtepe (N14) to South and South-West.

The Northern wall of the pass N18.

The Northern slope of the pass N19.

The Northern slope of the pass N19.

The Northern slope of the pass N19.

The pass Avcibell (N21, 3380, 1B-graded)
It connects the valley Mur (in it’s middle stream) with the right source of the river Akdere (the Southern slopes of the Aladagar). It is placed between the peaks Alaka (3596) (in the West) and the massif of Kaldi (3652) (in the East), it is of North-Southern orientation. It is traditionally used for ascents to Alaka and Kaldi. It was passed by A. Lebedev and A. Zajigin in May 2002 from the North to the South. The second going through the pass by Russian tourists took place in May 2003 from the South to the North (the group under the direction of A. Lebedev). The main difficulties in the beginning of May were the cornice from the North and the fault on the avalanche jamming in the canyon from the South. In the couloir of the Southern side from year to year in the beginning of May the ejection of a huge wet avalanche that falls down from the South-Eastern slope of Alaka is observed. it is discouraged to pass the canyon later than 11 o’clock a.m.. It is more safely to detour the canyon, having gone through the range to the neighbouring Eastern valley (green track on the scheme), or using for the descent to the South the higher (and further to East) point on the watershed of the range.

The scheme of the pass.

The Northern view from the peak Demirkazik.

The Northern view.

The ascension to the saddle on the Northern side.

The cornice on the Northern side.

A view to the pass from the Southern slope from the place of the entrance to the canyon.

The avalanche jamming in the canyon.

The avalanche jamming in the canyon.

The way to a pass from the South. To the left there is the entrance to the canyon, to the right – the detouring route.

The pass Western Alaka. (N22, 3290, 1B-graded)
It connects the valley Mur on the North with the hole Chaliolugu on the South (the Southern slopes of the Aladagar), it is of North-Southern orientation. The pass was gone through for the first time by Russian tourists from South to North in May 2004 by the group of MAI tourclub under the direction of Sergey Fetisov.

The Southern view.

The Southern view.

The Northern view from the peak Demirkazik (the photo was made by Jury Bratkov).

The passes of the plato Yedi Goller.

The pass N6 (3390, 1B*-graded)
It connects the circus of the source of the Aksu with the plato Yedi Goller, it is situated further to the West than the peak 3545, and is of North-Southern orientation. The pass is one-side, the main difficulty is the steep Southern slope. In summer it is detoured through the Western shoulder of the peak 3545, having gone down to the plato Yedi Goller a little bit further to the East along more gently-sloping slope of the mount. As for Russian tourists, it was passed for the first time in August 2003 from North to South by the group of the tourists of Moscow school №57 under the direction of Peter Sergeev.

The summer Southern view from the plato Yedi Goller.

The Southern view from the plato Yedi Goller.

The South-Eastern view from the plato Yedi Goller, to the left there is the pass N4, to the right – N6.

Two variants of climbing to the pass from the South - along the couloir and along the shoulder of the peak 3545.

The ascent to the pass along the couloir.

The Southern view from the plato Yedi Goller.

The North-Western view from the pass N5 false.

The summer view from the pass to the North to the peak Tekekalesi (3512).

The summer Northern view to the peak Tekekalesi (3512).

The summer Northern view to the peak Tekekalesi (3512), to the right there is the region of the pass N6.

The pass N9 (3540, 2А*-graded)
It is of North-Southern orientation and connects the plato Yedi Goller on the North with the plato of the sources of the river Basarmut on the South. The pass is one-side, the main difficulty is the range (ridge) on the Northern side. It was passed for the first time by the group under the direction of D. Chijik in May 2005.
The ridge leads from the North to the pass. In the bottom part of the ridge there is thick firn. The ridge is wide. The slope of it – 35 degrees. The first rocks are to be detoured. After 100-150 meters a rocky range begins. The fixed ropes are used. The leader climbs to the range at the left side. The belay organized with the help of hooks. The range is not steep, but very sharp. In some places it necessary to climb on 3-4 meters walls of about 80 degrees steep. Up to the pass there are 3 pitches of fixed ropes. The saddle of the pass is wide. The snow 200-250 meters wide slope of 30 degrees leads to the South.

The way up to a pass N9. The North-Eastern view from the plato Yedi Goller.

The ridge of the pass N9.

The way up to the pass N9 along the ridge.

At the pass N9.

The pass N10 (3500, ~2А-graded)
It is of North-Southern orientation and connects the plato Yedi Goller on the North with the right confluent of the valley Mur on the South. The information about passing them hasn’t been found.
On the Northern side there is a steep snow couloir of 150 meters long. On the Southern side from the saddle there is a steep fault that is possible to be detoured on the left along the Southern slope of the peak 3627.

The Northern view from the plato Yedi Goller.

The Northern view from the plato Yedi Goller.

The Southern view from the pass Avcibell.

The Southern view from the pass Avcibell.

The passes of the ravine Basarmut.

The pass N25 (3450, 1B-graded)
It is of North-Southern orientation and connects the plato of the sources of the river Basarmut on the North with the circus of the source of the river Adjiman (the Southern slopes of the Aladagar). It was passed for the first time by the group under the direction of D. Chijik in May 2005.
On the North there is a 150 meters long snow ascension of up to 40 degrees. On the South – stony slope of 25-30 degrees steep. In the bottom under them there are rocky faults of up to 50 meters. We had to find the way between them.