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Kalymnos Guide-Book

Sectors

EMBORIOS
SYKATI
SKALIA
ARGINONDA
МЕЖДУ ARGINONDA И CASTELI
CASTELLI
ARMEOS
MYRTIES
TELENDOS
KAMARI
KANTOUNI
PYTHARI
HORA
VLYHADIA
VATHI

Please contact us for new routes or comments:
Municipal Tourist Organization
jckalymn@ath.forthnet.gr
Main office : 22430 59056.
Climbing info desk ( Masouri ) 2243059445.
Web Site : www.kalymnos-isl.gr/climb

 

ATTENTION.

* Rock climbing in Kalymnos is under your own responsibility. Climbers are responsible for taking all necessary safety precautions.
* Please use the existing paths for your approach to the sectors.
* Please keep the climbing areas clean.
* All gates met on your way to the climbing sectors must be left in the position they are found.
(An open gate remains open and a closed gate, after your entrance, remains closed.)
* Feed back info from all climbers is welcome and necessary for the info desk.

 

USEFUL TELEPHONES.

22430 29301 Police
22430 24444 / 29304 Port Authorities
22430 23025 / 50499 Hospital
22430 50300 Taxi Station
22430 59056 Tourist Information.
22430 59445 Climbing info desk

Kalymnos is about 300 kilometers south east of Athens , and 100 north west of Rhodes . It has 15,500 permanent inhabitants, most of which live in Pothia, the capital of the island. It is well known as the sponge fishers island. The sea has always been a focal element in the local life, which has preserved its traditional character, color and style to a great extent. It is a mountainous island with impressive rocky crags, nude of trees, but with plentiful aromatic plants, such as thyme, sage and oregano to which the excellent Kalymnos honey owes its fragrance.

It is surrounded by a number of small islands, only two of which are inhabited, Pserimos and Telendos. Pothia is a picturesque town built like an amphitheatre around the port. It has all the necessary facilities such as banks, a post office, a hospital etc, as well as an intense commercial life with shops selling all kinds of goods.

It is well known as the sponge divers' island. The sea has always been a focal element in the local life, which has preserved its traditional character colour and style to a great extent. The divers, who initially dived nude and the best of whom could remain under water for over three minutes, traveled in small boats to the beaches of Africa looking for sponges.

History

The well-known Italian rock climber Andrea di Bari discovered the rock-climbing interest of the island in summer of 1996 while on holidays with his wife, also a rock climber however, they had no equipment with them! He came back in May '97 with an intermediate school with the purpose of opening routes. About 43 were then opened on Arche, Odyssey and Poets by the pupils. Next October Andrea di Bari came back with the photographer Andrea Gallo to make an article about Kalymnos' rock-climbing in Alp magazine.

Up until 1999, the equipped pitches were easier sport standard on grey slabs (from F5b to F6c), but now the yellow/red overhanging sections are also being taken into consideration, and the island is really full of superb caves with incredible holes, stalactites and rifles that look like Thai climbing, but sharper. The potential for new routes is huge, and many crags are still waiting the first route. New multi-pitch routes are also possible. At Easter 2000 there was a rock climbing course for ten locals organized by the Municipality of Kalymnos aiming to form a group of local climbers. The instructors were ArisTheodoropoulos & Thomas Mihailides. The above instructors also undertook in the summer of 2000 a program in collaboration with the local council to open new routes and to check the protection of existing routes. Thus, Kalymnos is one of the few rock climbing areas whose protection is certified by professional mountain guides working to strict specifications.

Characteristics

Comments by Paolo Vitali, the well-known Italian guide, after visiting Kalymnos:

-"We spent eight days in Kalymnos in October 1999, and we really enjoyed it a lot. The place is very nice, the people are kind and there are some beautiful pitches to climb."-

There are 23 equipped crags with 200 pitches (5/2000), from F4c to F8a+ (all bolt protected, sport climbing), mostly facing west, but a few facing south.

The rock is excellent quality limestone, sharp at only a few points, without vegetation, and the pitches are equipped with rustproof bolts. At the moment almost all the routes are one pitch, but there are many possibilities for amazing two to five pitch routes. Indeed, apart from the quality, there is also the vast amount of rock available. The opened routes represent not more than 5% of the possibilities, while there are several equally good cliffs completely untouched that are awaiting their first route!

The ranking system in use is the French one. I believe that all sport climbing routes in Greece should be ranked according to this system as it is the most objective and the most used worldwide for this kind of rock-climbing.

Useful equipment

12 to 14 quickdraws for route repeating. Rope preferably 60 meters of 10 to 11 mm.

Equipment for new routes

On Kalymnos, you can open unlimited new routes either from the ground or from above. Apart from single pitch routes, there are possibilities of multi-pitch climbing routes of up to five pitches. We would ask you to equip them correctly, without too much run-out, placing bolts at least every 3- 4 meters, so that there is no danger and that they match the physiognomy of the already existing routes on the island. We would also ask that, because of their proximity to the sea only rustproof, stainless steel plackets and 10mm bolts should be used. You should also always place two bolts at the belay stances.

Most of the names of the pitches belong to Greek mythology and Ancient History, a mark of respect on the part of the Italians for our civilization and country e.g. on the field "Poietes" all the names are those of ancient poets. Therefore, we would ask that those who open new pitches abide by the Italian custom and give Greek names.

All the names of the pitches are written at the beginnings at the foot of each cliff.

Finally, we would ask that all new pitches be announced to the following addresses:

 

Kalymnos Climbing Guide 2006

The white pillars, following the main road, indicate the beginning of the paths to most of the climbing sectors. They also have useful information how to proceed the climbing area such as walking time and color used for marking the path.

 

Quality of the routes:
* good
** very good
*** excellent.

 

DUE TO WORK IN PROGRESS BETWEEN ARGINONDA - SKALIA MOST OF THE WHITE PILLARS HAVE BEEN MOVED. FOR YOUR Routes TO THE CLIMBING AREAS PLEASE USE THE TEMPORARY NEW STARTING POINTS.

 

ATTENTION.

Rock climbing on Kalymnos is under your own responsibility. Climbers are responsible for taking all necessary safety precautions.

 

EMBORIOS

1. Styx.
Access: 100m to the left of "Francois Guillot". Use the same path.
Routes:
1. Inuendo - 6c 22m ***
2. Waiting for the spring - 6b 22m **
3. Leningradcowboys go America - 6b 22m **


2. &Epsilonmborios.
(Francois Guillot).
Access: 100m after the pillar for Kreissaal, heading for the little harbor of Emborios , on your right you meet a white painted pillar with its sign indicating your way towards the sector. Following the road you reach a dead end with a small dam. A second sign on the dam shows you the direction to the beginning of the path. From there continue walking for 15min to a South facing wall with corners and chimneys.
Routes:
1. Dragoner - 6b + 25m
2.? - 6a 20m
3. Otavi - 6b 22m
4. Harmonie - 5c 18m
5.? (multipitch unfinished project)
1st SL - 7a 12m
2ndSL - 7b 22m
3 rd SL - 6c/7a 20m
6. Coloria - 6c 27m ***
7. I love Kalymnos - 6b 27m ***
8. Guillot corner (два pitches) 45m,possible in one pitch. ***
1st SL - 5c 20m
2ndSL - 5c 25m
9. Music of rock - 6b 25m **
10. Loutraki - 6c + 25m ***
11. - 6c 30m **
12. Andros - 6a 30m **


3. Kreissaal.
Access: At the last turn before the village of Emborios you meet the white pillar on your right witch indicates the beginning of the path to "Kreissaal". Follow the red marks for 15min (close to an ancient wall). South facing wall with horizontal cracks. From Kreissaal to your left in 10m you can also access F.G.
Routes:
Left part
1. In the mood for love - 6b 18m ***
2. Little Leo - 6a 18m ***
Main wall:
3. Lea - 5a 30m ***
4. Ovulation - 5c 30m ***
5. Climax - 6a 30m **
6. Embryo- 6a 30m **
7. Tamangur - 5c + 20m **
8. Supernanny Ingrid - 5c 30m **
9. Bossa Nova - 5c + 30m **
10. Para ti Ursula - 6a 30m **
11. Liloh - 6a 25m*
12. Dzodzet Connection - 5b + 20m **
13. Gastilionis - 5b + 25m
14. Jassu Stefanie - 5c 20m*
15. For Sue - 6a 25m **
Kastri
16. Kazonis - 6a 15m **
17. Enchanted Castle - 6b 25m **
18. Principessa Giulia - 6c + 25m ***
19. Tower Staircase - 5a 15m* (свободный участок)
20. Dragon's Lair - 6c 22m*


4. Sophie.
Access: The same as for Kreissaal and a few minutes to the right of the ancient walls, kastri (fort). 20 min total time.
Routes:
1. Dario 6b + 20m ***
2. Dolce Eugenia 5c 25m **
3. Alessandro - 5c 30m ***
4. Sophie - 6a 20m
5. Fatolitis - 7b 30m ***
6. Maria Grazia - 6b 25m **
7. Betty Bop - 6c 32m **

SYKATI


5. Sykati.
A unique huge hole, a cave with no roof, with a diameter of 50 - 60m and 70m deep at some parts, with the surrounding walls full of tufas and stalactites.
Access: The first part is the same as for "Skalia Pillar". Continuing uphill on the same dirt road you will reach the top from were you have panoramic views towards Leros, Turkey and the islands north, north - east side. On your right the settlement of Palionisos and on your left the U bay of Sykati with its lonely beach and the small church of St. George .

Continue downwards for about 300m to the first major switchback. You will find a goat pen here and a bit further down the road a boats cabin.
From the goats pen you can generally get an idea of your course:
* The climbing area is directly opposite the head land/peninsula forming the northern border of Sykati's bay.
* The climbing area is behind ( north west ) the third and last bunker (old houses left by the Italians during the war).

Go through the gate of the goats pen, with a red dot at the top (always maintain the gates in the position they are found) and trend generally down and west to a second gate were two perpendicular fences meet. Continue through the second gate moving west passing two characteristic large boulders aiming for the last of the three bunkers.
From here stay on the path marked with red paint dots as it contours around a ridge and down into a narrow gorge.
The cave and the beautiful beach are now visible. Reach the caves lips and from the north side scramble down (4a) into the hole.

Routes:
1. BMW 6b 15m ***
2. B69 - 5b + 15m **
3. Exit - 4a 15m **
4. Abrazis - 5c + 15m ***
5. Adini - 5c 25m (corner trad not equipped yet).
6. Abrazos - 6c + 15m ***
7. El Chocho Loco - 6b + 20m ***
8. El Chupodromo - 6c + 22m ***
9. Les pirates de Sikati - 8a 50m ***
First 30m 7a+, 20m more 8a. All possible in one pitch.
10. Les Dents De La Mer - 60m 8a +
First 40m 7c, 20m - 8b.
All possible in one pitch.
11. Jaws 8c 50m (Ultimate mens route).
20m 8a, затем 15m 8b и 15m 8c до вершины.
All possible in one pitch with a 100m rope.
12. Mort Aux Chevres - 7a+ 30m and 30m more to the top project.
13. Morgan Adam est une Andalouse - 8b 75m ***.
First 30m 7c, then 10m more 7c+ and 35m more 8b to the top.
All possible in one pitch.
14. Por una sociedad con mujeres satisfechas -8b 80m ***.
First 40m 7c+, then 20m more 8a+ and 20m more 8b to the top .
All possible in one pitch.
15. Les arts du vide- 8b 40m ***
16. Locita - 8a 45m *** First 25m 7a and 20m more 8a to the top.
All possible in one pitch.
17. Kalyrock.com - (multipitch)
1- SL - 6c/7a 26m
2- SL - 7b/7c 22m 3 rd SL - 7b/7c 22m.
Not possible in one pitch.
18. Little bulbos-7c + 33m ***
19. Armata Sikati-7c 50m *** СFirst30m 7b, then20m more7c to the top. All possible in one pitch.
20. Laurent ... y' quelqu'un - 7c 38m ***
21. Ou est l' equipe -- 7b + 25m ***
22. Body Buldeuse - 7b + 20m ***
23. Kontrato - 7a + 20m ***

SKALIA


6. Thalassa (Sea).

Access: The following access is used also for Palace, Baby House, Skalia Pillar and Sykati.
After the village of Skalia towards Emborios you meet on your left a small church and on the right a dirt road with the white pillar at the beginning of it. Following the dirt road after 200m two signs give further info.
Turning left, and going trough a gate after 50m, leads you to Palace, Baby House and after the gorge to Thalassa. South facing wall, overhanging. All three sectors are 3 - 4 min walk from each other.
Continuing uphill leads you to Skalia Pillar and also is the beginning of your way to Sykati.
Routes:
1. Zestama - 4c + 20m
2. Perdica - 6a + 15m
3. Thalassa - 6c 30m ***
4. Aroma - 7a 32m ** (13 quickdraws)
5. Dysi - 5c + 30m ***
6. Anatoli - 5c + 30m ***
7. Aramis - 6c + 19m **
8. Anemos - 5c 22m **


7. Baby House.
Access: The same as for Thalassa.
Routes:
1. Leda - 7a 20m ***
2. Saia - 6b + 20m **
3. Ifaistos - 7a 25m ***
4. Totta - 7a 20m ***
5. Martina - 7b + 20m ***
6. Silvia Melis - 6b 25m **
7. Hello baby yoyo - 5c 30m ***
8. Misplaced Childhood - 6c 25m **
9. Gickelhamn - 7a 12m
10. Stine - 6c 12m
11. Hilde - 7a + 15m
12. Frieda - 6a 12m
13. Estia - 5c + 22m **
14. Dimitra - 6b 25m ***
15. Hermes - 7a 22m ***
16. Pikata - 5c + 18m ***
17. Pfermos - 6a + 18m ***
18. Andrea - 6a 6m
19. Axel - 6a + 6m


8. Palace.
Access: The same as for Thalassa.
(South facing with routes on wall, overhanging, and ridge).
Routes:
1. Thermos - 4c 10m **
2. Room 13 - 7b 18m **
3. The roof on fire - 7a + 18m **
4. Ballroom - 5c 18m **
5. Mia's Place - 6a + 25m ***
6. King Suite - 7a + 25m **
7. Balcony - 6c 25m ***


9. Skalia Pillar.
Access:Using the same dirt road for Thalassa instead of turning left continue upward until a big curve with a small gate to your right and ''Skalia Pillar written on the left of the gate in red on. Walk through the gate and downwards to an olive tree and from there continue for another 12 min strait ahead towards a super yellow pillar.
Routes:
1. Fakir Plaisir - 6c 35m **
2. Razor Edge - 6b 33m **
3. Sea, sun and pain - 7b + 33m **
4. The orange grove - 7a + 30m
5. Kaly Minogue - 6c 33m ***
6. Kaly Dream - 6c 33m ***
7. Captain Koumantaros - 6c 33m ***
8. Zymoto 6b 31m ***
9. Big Merci - 6a + 32m ***
10. Tealhamas - 6a + 30m ***
11. Mammas Reporter - 5b 30m ***
12. Video Clip - 5c + 20m **
13. Egeo TV - 5c 25m **


10. Seaside Kitchen.
Acces: 100m before Skalia village a large cliff on the right. 20min walk from the pillar following the red marks.
(South/southwest facing slab, wall)..
Routes:
1. Resista - 6c + 30m ***
2. Globus - 6c + 35m ***
3. Talon - 6a 15m **
4. Joy in the garden - 6a + 25m ***
5. Rigani 90m *** (3 pitches)
1st SL - 5c + 30m
2ndSL - 6c 30m
3 rd SL - 5c 30m
6. Thribi - 6c 30m
7. Achilles - 5c + 15m *
8. Achille L2 - 7a + 35m *** (extension).
9. Durgol - 7a 35m ***
10. Sisyphus junior - 7b + 25m **
11. Totenhansel - 6c 20m ***
12. Supertotenhansel - 7a 30m (extension of Totenhansel)
13. Remember wadi rum - 6c 25m ***
14. Dafni - 6c + 30m **
15. Elia - 7b 30m **
16. Thimari - 7a 30m **
17. Loli - 7a + 30m ***
18. Axium - 7a + 30m ***
19. Delta - 6a + 25m **
20. Myrthe - 5b 22m
21. Parasitos - 6a + 18m **
22. Zyklop - 6a 28m ***
23. Persephone - 6b 28m ***
24. "2046" - 7a 20m **
25. Lothar - 6b 25m ***
26. Serena - 6b 25m **


11. Cave.
Access: About 100m before Seaside Kitchen 5min walk from the sign (no pillar) following the yellow marks. The name was given because of a cave witch is on the left of the crag. (Southwest facing). 50m to your left you will find 6 more routes. Follow the mark to the ''Upper Cave''.
Routes:
'Upper Cave''
1. Zicke - 6b 18m
2. Olympics 776 До н.э - 6a 18m **
3. Olympics 2004 - 7a 20m
4. White Snake - 6a + 15m
5. Red monkey - 7a 15m
6. White Mouse - 6a 18m*
7. Grey Chili - 5c 18m*
8. Thyme honey - 5a 18m*
Cave
9. Legolas - 5c 18m **
10. Pony Luz - 4b 15m **
11. Saroman - 7a 25m*
12. Anthi - 8a 25m ***
13. Eirini - 7c 20m ***
14. Florianoulos - 7c + 20m **
15. Sascha on the road - 7b 20m **
16. Orea - 6b 25m ***
17. Mathitis - 5a 22m
18. Sto kalo 5a 18m
19. Phidias - 5c 18m **

ARGINONDA


12. Galatiani (Halkiti Cave).
Access: The starting point is indicated with the info sign screwed on rock about 100m before the sign for sector cave. Follow the green colored path for 40min to a large face. (South facing)
Routes:
1. Bella - 4b 25m **
2. Veros - 4a 20m **
3. Sunrider - 6b + 33m **
4. Crispy - 6c + 35m ***
5. Grip - 7a + 35m ***
6. Lustzapen - 7a 30m **
7. Wendenexpress 135m *** (5 pitches)
1 st SL - 35m 6c +
2 ndSL - 30m 7a
3 rd SL - 20m 6a
4 th SL - 30m 6c
5 th SL - 20m 6a
2X50m rope recommended.
8. Focus 7b 35m ***
9. K44 - 6c 22m **
10. Nymfi - 7b + 30m ***
11. Feuerdon - 7a 22m **
12. Sueur D'Hommes - 8a + 25m **
(Extension of Feurdon)
13. Debout les morts-8a 25m ***
14. Zero chichon-8b + 30m *** First 20m 7c, and 10m more 8b+ to the top. Possible in one pitch.
15. Gegoune-7c + 28m *****
16. Calcite star 7a+27m ***
17. Calcite star plus 7b + 35m **
18. Kroterih 7b 28m ***
19. Rognol - 6c 30m **
20. Latex - 7a + 30m **
21. Vagina - 6c + 30m **
22. Anal - 6b + 25m **
23. Metaxa-8b 20m ***
24. B2 - 6a + 25m **
25. Stanouch - 5b 20m ** same belay.
26. Sounet - 5a 20m **


13. Black Forest.
Access: : 600m after the pillar for Noufaro in the direction of Emborios. Follow the stone women, stone man and the red marks for 15min. No white pillar for the moment. (South facing).
Routes:
1. Dilldabbe - 5c + 20m
2. Eieruhr - 5b 23m
3. Wunderfitz - 6a 25m
4. Schneckle mach Dir nid ins Hem - 6c+27m
5. D' luft isch dusse - 6c +/7a 28m
6. Bragele - 6b + 18m
7. Schofsackel - 7a 32m
8. S' Mauselchen - 6c 26m


14. Magic Wall.
Access: A new sector to the left and above Noufaro. From Noufaro follow the obvious red spots up to the steep wall with overhanging sections. Three multipitch routes well protected reach the summit.
Routes:
1. Lyttos - 6b + 25m **
2. Skevos - 6c 28m ***
3. Great Albert - 6c 25m ***
4. Great Albert L2 - 7a + 35m **
5. Black beauty - 7a 33m
6. Grua (multipitch)
1st SL - 6c 30m ***
2ndSL - 7a 30m ***
3 rd SL - 6b 30m ***
7. Rammstein (multipitch)
1st SL - 7a + 33m ***
2ndSL - 7b + 30m ***
3 rd SL - 6c 30m ***
8. Vouros (multipitch)
1st SL - 6c 30m ***
2ndSL - 7b + 30m ***
3 rd SL - 6c 30m ***
9. Greek Wedding - 6a 25m **
10. Tony - 5b + 25m **


15. Nenuphar.
Access: After Arginonda about 600m you meet the white pillar for this sector. 10 min maximum walking following the red marks. (South facing grey slab).
Routes:
1. Kathrin island - 6c 25m
2. Big back - 5b 18m
3. Samba - 5a 25m **
4. Blues - 5a 23m **
5. Booggie - 5b 25m **
6. Jive - 5b + 25m **
7. Ericstotle - 6a + 13m
8. Twist - 7c 15m*
9. Cha cha - 6a + 25m **
10. Rumba - 6a 25m **
11. Tango - 6b 25m **
12. Rock'n Roll - 6c 25m **
13. Mambo - 6b + 25m **
14. Salsa - 6c 25m **


16. Belgian Chocolates.
Access: Using the same access for Noufaro after 5min walking continue to the right and upwards following the marks for 4min to a flat gray slab.
Routes:
1. Project?
2. Project?
3. Stone diver 33m (2 pitches)
1st SL - 5a 18m
2ndSL - 5c 15m
4. Milka - 5a 17m*
5. Bevers bolts - 113m (5 pitches)
1st SL - 5a 18m
2ndSL - 7b 20m
3 rd SL - 6a + 25m
4 th SL - 6b 25m
5 th SL - 6a 25m
6. Red spot - 5b 18m
7. Strange tree - 5c 18m
8. Rock shrimps - 6a 17m
9. Sharp things - 5c 15m
10. Nicole - 5c 25m **
11. Thia Fotisi - 5c +/6a 22m ***
12. Dodo - 6a + 28m ***
13. Ewa - 6a + 26m ***
14. Joli - 5b 27m


17. Archi (Start).
Access: One of the main sectors. After Arginonda, 300m towards Skalia you meet the pillar for this sector and Helvetia.
Walking time about 10min. (South facing grey slab).
Routes:
1. Apoplus - 6a 25m **
2. Dell mabul - 6a 25m **
3. Adonis - 6a + 30m **
4. Small fish - 6b 28m
5. Monolith - 6b + 33m
6. Black Snake - 6b 23m
7. Phovos - 6c 25m*
8. Deimos - 6a + 25m **
9. Pares - 6a 28m ***
10. Scacco - 5c + 25m **
11. Argonauti - 5b + 25m **
12. Teseo - 5a + 25m **
13. Pegaso - 5b 25m **
14. Centauro - 5c 25m **
15. Ercole - 5c 25m **
16. Ziwi - 5c + 25m*
17. Orgasme Mineral 7c + 25m
18. Orgasme Mineral Extension 8a 50m
19. Kalymnstorb - сначала 35m 8a или 55m 8c (80m веревка).
20. Takopopoulos - 7c +/8a 40m
21. Los Rocos Di Cantalos - first 25m 7c+/8a or 50m 8a+ 80m rope (80m rope).
22. Georgio de la jungle - first 20m 7c+ or 45m 8c+/9a?
23. Mamiferes Vibes - first 25m 8a or 40m 8c/9a.
24. Pas touche a ma bite - 8a + 30m (same start with Eros).
25. Eros - 7b + 20m ***
26. Angelika - 8a 25m ***
27. Kastor - 6c + / 7a 15m ***
28. Super Kastoras 8a + 35m (Extension Kastoras)
29. Polydeukes - 7a +/7b 18m **
30. Il pitore - 6b + 18m ***
31. Barbara 7a + 35m ***
32. Thetis - 6b 18m ***
33. Poseidon - 6c 27m ***
34. Mofeta - 6c + 27m ***
35. Nereidi - 6a + 25m **
36. Icaro - 6b + 25m **
37. Triaina - 6b 25m ***
38. Orione - 6a 25m ***
39. Dedalo - 6a + 25m ***
40. Medusa - 6a + 27m ***
41. Perseo - 6a + 25m ***
42. Kalymnian сыр 150m *** (3 pitches)
1st SL - 6a + 50m
2ndSL - 6b + 50m
3 rd SL - 7a 45m
43. Minotauro - 5c 18m ***
44. Hey birdy namnam - 6c + 30m
43. Carlo non farlo - 5b 20m ***
44. Optasia - 5b 20m ***
45. Arianna - 5a 20m ***
46. Cerbero - 5b 20m ***
47. Arhaggelos - 5a 18m **
48. Caronte - 4c + 16m **
49. Pinipon - 4c 16m **
50. Aristos - 5b 18m **
51. Alba - 6a 20m*.


18. Balcon Helvetia.
Access: To the right and above Archi using the same access plus 5 more min walking time. (South facing overhanging).
Routes:
1. Swiss kiss - 7a +/7b 28m **
2. Gruene Feigen - 7c 28m **
3. Mr Souvlaki - 7b + 30m ***
4. Chnosis zange - 7c + 30m ***
5. M40 - 7a 30m ***
6. Fracaso - 30m.
7. The end of mythos - 6c + 20m


19. Grey Zone.
Access: The first white pillar you meet after Arginonda village is the beginning of the path to this sector. 5 min walk following the red marks. (South facing slab).
Routes:
1. Cristian's Grove - 6a 18m*
2. Berliner kindl - 5b 18m **
3. Arginonda beach - 5a 18m **
4. Chicken Hawk - 6a 18m
5. Fakir - 6b 18m **
6. Graue zone - 6b + 18m **
7. Kill the cock - 6a + 18m ***


20. Sea Breeze.
Access: A grey slab on the right of Grey Zone. You can use the access for Grey Zone or follow the blue marks from the road near the fenced property. (South facing grey slab).
Routes:
1. Chero Poli - 5b 23m **
2. Karlomanos - 5a 26m*
3. Drosia - 5a 25m **
4. Glaros - 4b 30m ***
5. Aeras - 6b + 15m **
6. Sintro - 6a + 20m *
7. Ate (2 pitches) 35m (14 quickdraws).
1 st SL Ate - 4c 20m
2 nd SL Seeigel - 6a + 15m
8. Sea breeze - 6b 35m *** (abseil from Pirancha).
9. Pirancha 37m *** (2 pitches)
1 st SL - 5c 20m
2 nd SL - 6a 17m
10. Selene - 5a 20m ***
11. Hellas - 4c 20m **
12. Thalassopouli - 5b 25m **
13. Hera - 6a 25m **
14. E.O.S - 6a 25m **
15. Charika Poli - 5b 25m **


21. Amphitheater.
Acces: On the left of Katharina.
Routes:
1. Electra - 6c 18m **
2. Lysistrati - 7a 30m ***
3. Oresteia - 6b + 20m.
4. Hot Shot - 5c + 20m **


22. &Kappaatharina.
Access: the village of Arginonda following the dirt road under construction. After approximately 300m follow a fence on the left side for about 5 min looking for a gray slab.
Routes:
1. For Sue and Steve - 5a 20m
2. Missing link - 4c 18m
3. Shark Bite - 5b 20m*
4. Stock Fish - 5a 20m **
5. Clean - 5c 20m **
6. Katharina - 4c 20m **
7. Victoria - 4b 20m **
8. Tufa Slab - 5a 20m **
9. Mike's rescue - 5a 22m **
10. Loukoumades - 5c 25m*
11. Adonibent - 6a 25m **
12. And now for something completely different - 5c 20m ***.
13. Climate change - 6c 20m
14. Fire Wall - 7c 18m

BETWEEN ARGINONDA И CASTELI


23. Summertime.
Access: On your way towards Arginonda just after a deserted old quarry on the right follow the blue marks for 5 min. (North facing slab).
Routes:
1. Salbei - 6a 20m*
2. Друзья - 6b 20m
3. Thymian - 4c 20m **
4.Salamina tis Kypros - 6a + 20m ***
5. Ammochostos - 6a 20m*
6. Macabi - 6b + 23m **
7. Orea Dana - 6a + 25m *
8. Yeraki - 5c 25m *
9. Til Tanit - 5b + 25m **
10. Dorian - 4c 12m **
11. July - 4b 20m*
12. Anna - 4a 20m *


24. Ando Drom.
Access: Follow the red points for Magoulias Wall for 100m then turn right and follow the blue points ( 10 min from the road ).
Routes:
1. Shiva and Dimitris - 6a 30m ***
2. Ando Drom - 6b + 25m ***
3. Acon 69 cagua - 6c 30m*
4. Didi hermana de alma - 5c 25m ***


25. Magoulias Wall
Access: Follow the blue marks to Summer Time and then the red points and the stone woman to the beginning of the routes.
Прогулка 15 минут.
Routes:
1. Nikolas - 6a + 20m
2. Fotini - 6b + 25m
3. Honey ball - 6c + 25m
4. Toni - 7a 23m
5. Anne - 6b 30m
6. Sabina - 6c 28m ***
7. Vlasis house - 6c + 28m


26. Dolphin Bay.
Access: a)Coming from Arginonda to Castelli about 50m before "Appollo" on the right side of the road follow blue marks for 2min and then 20m abseil from "Paula the Seal".
b) From the parking area of Kasteli walk down and turn right following the blue marks for 15min.
Routes:
1. Too fat for tufas - 6a 24m ***
2. Roufos - 6a + 25m ***
3. Lavraki - 5a 25m ***
4. Smineri - 5a 20m ***
5. Kavouras - 6a + 20m ***
6. Kalymnian Lightning - 6b + 20m **
7. Barbouni - 6b 20m **
8. Flipper - 5c 20m **
9. Koutsoumoura - 5c + 18m **
10. Siga Siga - 6a 15m *
11. Tsipoura - 5c 15m **


27. Apollo.
Access: 200m before "Castelli" on the left side of the road follow blue marks upwards for 2min. Southfacing sun after 13:00
Routes:
1. Adonis - 6b 18m **
2. Heike - 6a 16m*
3. Theo - 6a + 15m*
4. Detlive - 5c + 15m

CASTELLI


28. Castelli (Форт).
Access: The name of the area was given from the locals because of the fortress that stood there, the ruins of which still remain.
Following the main road from Masouri, Castelli is located just after the climbing info desk on the left with a small church at the base of a small hill and the ruins on the top. For the climbing area 10min walk from the main road to the right and behind the small hill.
Routes:
1. Tsarouhis - 6a 15m*
2. Gyzis - 5b 15m **
3. Gikas - 4c 15m **
4. Столб моря - 6a + 25m ***
5. Mannertour - 6a 25m
6. Mikros prigipas - 6a 30m *
7. Naddl kussen - 6a 28m
8. Ruheloser pirat - 6a + 20m **
9. Gefaehrliche brandung - 6a 20m *
10. Piccolo diavolo - 6a 20m **
11. Hocla 5c + 20m ***
12. Gruselino - 5c 20m*
13. Gunesli kiz - 5c 20m **
14. Scarabeus - 5b 20m **
15. Damokles - 6a 22m **
16. Ataolaa - 5a 20m *
17. Yahurti me meli - 4b 18m*
18. Psomi ke elies - 4c 20m*
19. Sisyphos - 5a 25m **
20. Kokkinidis - 4c 25m **
21. Gia ton Kyriako - 3c 30m*
22. Ligo akoma - 4a 30m*
23. Kapella - 7b 8m
24. Bambola blue - 7b 8m
25. Krotdebiki - 7b 8m.


29. North Cape.
Access: 20m after the beginning of the access for Castelli on the right of the main road towards Arginonda, a dirt road leads you 50m from the base of the sector. After the first house you meet 10min walk to your left and upwards.(South facing slabs).
Routes:
1. No fly zone - 5b 33m *
2. B.E.B. - 6a 30m *
3. Galup - 6a 25m *
4. Sposi - 6b + 14m **
5. К proto moro mou - 5c 25m *
6. Hantsch - 7a + 20m **
7. Rosso di sera - 6b 30m *
8. Grazie - 6a + 30m *
9. Scanner - 6a 30m *
10. Nordic Walking - 5b 18m
11. Funatiker - 7a + 22m ***
12. Helios - 8a 15m ***
13. Nirvana - 7c 15m ***
14. Stachelschwein - 7a 12m


30. School.

Access: The same as North Cape with 10min more walking to the right or from the left side of Odyssey following the marks. (South facing slab).
Helmet recommended.
Routes:
1. Dancing Queen - 5c + 25m **
2. 3 Strolche - 5b + 30m **
3. Heureka - 6a 15m ***
4. Nature Simplicity - 5c + 15m **
5. Oraia stithi 120m (4 pitches) ***
1st SL - 30m 5c
2ndSL - 30m 6a
3 rd SL - 30m 6a +
4 th SL - 30m 6a +
6. Baloo - 5b 20m **
7. The couch 5c + 25m
8. Kaa - 5a 25m
9. Poumba - 4a 15m
10. Climbing Wizard - 4a 13m
11. Askisi 5b 23m
12. Kalymnos 2000 125m (5 pitches) *
1st SL - 4c 25m
2ndSL - 5a 25m
3 rd SL - 5c 25m
4 th SL - 5b 25m
5 th SL - 4b 25m
13. Platon 125m (5 pitches) *
1st SL - 4b 25m
2ndSL - 5a 25m
3 rd SL - 5b 25m
4 th SL - 5c 25m
5 th SL - 4c 25m.


31. Odyssey
Access: The combination of excellent rock and the variety of routes has determined this sector as the main climbing area of the island. You can approach Odyssey following the dirt road used for the two previous sectors and after the end of it walk for 15min following the blue marks to your left and upwards. A closer approach can be made from following the dirt road witch begins at the white pillar for Odyssey after the climbing info desk. (North-west facing wall and overhanging).
Routes:
1. Bonnie - 5c 17m*
2. Clyde - 6b 20m **
3. Mythos - 6b + 30m ***
4. Arugliopoulos - 7c + 25m ***
5. Elies - 7a + 18m ***
6. Feta - 6c + 18m ***
7. Moon Bride - 7c 18m
8. Island in the sun - 7a + 20m **
9. Island in the sun Extension 7b 25m
10. Luky strike - 7b 20m ***
11. Morfeas - 6b 10m **
12. Morfeas плюс - 7b + 28m
13. Loskukos-?
14. Pindaro - 7c + 30m **
15. Island highway (2 pitches) 6c 35m
1st SL - 6c 22m
2ndSL - 6b 13m **
16. Il gigante e Ла bambina - 6c + 22m **
17. Satyros - 6c + 18m ***
18. Bubu pensaci tu - 7b + 23m **
19. Andromeda - 7c + 20m ***
20. Orion - 7c + 20m ***
21. Meltemi - 7a + 20m **
22. Patroklos - 7b 35m
23. Daphne - 7b 25m ***
24. Проект-?
25. Lucky luka - 7b 15m.
26. Lucky luka Extension- 8c 30m ***
27. Marci Marc - 7c + 30m ***
28. Amphora - 7b 20m ***
29. Sirene - 7c 33m **
30. Sardonique - 8a + 33m
31. Fourtouna - 7b + 30m **
32. Odisseo - 6a + 20m **
33. Mon amour - 6a 25m **
34. Nausica Nausica - 6a + 28m ***
35. Fouska - 7a 12m **
36. Gaia - 8b 20m ***
37. Polifemo - 7c 20m ***
38. Alfredo Alfredo - 7b + 20m ***
39. Why not - 6b + 15m **
40. The beast - 7a + 25m **
41. Imia - 6c 25m ***
42. Eumeo - 4b 15m **
43. Argo - 4c 15m **
44. Argo Navis - 6a 25m (Extension Argo)
45. Telemaco - 5b 18m ***
46. Penelope - 6a 18m **
47. Caribbean Wedding - 6c + 20m (start from Penelope)
48. Lestrygon - 6c 22m ***
49. Haryvdi - 6a + 19m **
50. Mikrotera kalamarakia - 6b + 15m ***
51. Mermizeli - 6b + 15m ***
52. Poly retsina no good - 6a 15m ***
53. Eyriklea - 5b 16m ***
54. Lotofagos - 5c + 15m ***
55. Lotofagos плюс - 6c 20m **
56. Itaca - 6c + 20m ***
57. Ciao vecio - 6c 20m ***
58.Ulisse coperto di sale - 7a 20m ***
59. Calipso - 7a 20m ***
60. Alcinoo - 7b 20m **
61. Dionysos - 7a 22m ***
62. Omiros - 7b 22m ***
63. Atena - 6b + 18m ***
64. Circe - 6b 19m ***
65. Femio - 6a + 18m ***
66. Laertes - 5c + 18m ***
67. Nessuno - 5c 18m **
68. On the Verge - 3c 18m*


32. Ocean Dream.
Access: The first part is the same as for Odyssey but instead of turning left to the crag continue upwards following the green signs for about 20min.
(South facing slab, wall, overhanging).
Routes:
1. Cardio Palma - 125m (multipitch)
1st SL - 6c 35m
2ndSL - 7c 30m
3 rd SL - 8a 35m
4 th SL - 6c 25m
2. L'Uomo senza Qualita - 135m (multipitch)
1st SL - 6a + 35m
2ndSL - 7a/b 20m
3 rd SL - 7c +/8a 35m
4 th SL - 8a 20m
5 th SL - 5a 25m
3. Abert - 150m *** (multipitch)
1st SL - 5a 30m
2ndSL - 5b 30m
3 rd SL - 6a + 30m
4 th SL - 6b 30m
5 th SL - 6b 30m
The view from the summit is fantastic. Return on foot (trial and a small rappel 20m at the end).
4. Ocean dream - 6a 30m **
5. Marina- 6a/6a + 30m **
6. Giuliana - 6a 30m **
7. Sara - 6a 30m *
8. Octopus - 6a 25m*
9. Stachelino - 5c + 25m*
10. Zeus - 5b 30m **
11. Calliope - 4a 25m **
12. Callisto - 4a 25m **
13. Francalypso 145m (4 pitches) ***
1st SL - 5b 50m
2ndSL - 6b 50m
3 rd SL - 6a 20m
4 th SL - 6c + 25m
14. Mella - 7c/8a 30m
15. Il movimento sexi - 6a 30m
16. Telendos - 7b + 30m


33. Olympic Wall.
Access: : A large wall of 110 m height on the right of Ocean Dream. Potential for 40 routes from 6c - 8c with excellent rock.
Routes:
1. Blue Rock - (multipitch project)
1st SL - 8b+ 40m
2nd SL - 8b+ 40m
3rd SL - 7c 30m (not bolted yet).
2. Yamas - 8a+ 40m
3. Hellas Rodeo - 8a 40m


34. Iliada.
Access: As you are approaching Odyssey you make a right traverse for 15min towards masouri at about the same level.(South facing slab to overhanging).
Routes:
1. Another day in Paradise - 6a+ 28m***
2. Ajax - 5a 30m***
3. Homer vision 5c+ 30m***
4. Doimidis - 6b+ 30m***
5. Ira - 6c 20m**
6. Dolonas - 7c 15m*** (The big roof of the cave).
7. Iliada - 6c+ 30m***
8. Athina - 6b+ 28m***
9. Ifigenia - 6a+ 25m**
10. Tefkros - 6a 25m**
11. Troia - 6a+ 35m*
12. Kalhas - 6b 20m***
13. Priamos - 6b+ 30m***
14. Oetida - 6c 25m**
15. Thetida - 7c 30m***
16. Mythologie - 7c 35m***
17. Ekavi - 6a+ 25m***
18. Paris - 7a+ 30m**
19. Polipitis - 7a+ 25m***
20. Zorba le Gros - 7b 25m***
21. Padronie Paliacci - 7c 28m*
22. Nestroas - 7a 28m***
23. Ektor - 6c 28m***
24. Beautiful Helen 6a+ 30m***
25. Antilohos - 5c 25m**
26. Menelaos - 6a+ 25m*


35. Muses.
Access: A 5 min walk from Iliada to the right. You can also approach the crag from the right of a hotel under construction 100m after hotel Filoxenia. (West facing short wall/overhanging).
Routes:
1. Nike - 7a+ 33m ***
2. Dike - 7a 32m ***
3. Themelis - 6b 30m ***
4. St. Savas - 7c 18m***
5. Kalinycta mer - 7b+ 30m***
6. Rendez with Platon - 8b 30m ***
7. Paleolithic line - 7b+/c 17m ***
8. Nicola la tigre - 7c 16m***
9. Neolithic line - 7c 16m***

ARMEOS


37. Spartakus.
Access: On the left and behind Afternoon. For the approach use the same as for Afternoon and Grande Grotta.(North facing wall to overhanging).
Routes:
1. Geissen Schnucki - 6a 18m **
2. Ziegen Peter - 6a+ 18m **
3. Astree - 6b 35m***
4. Chariots on Fire - 6c+ 35m**
5. Vangelis connection 6c+ 35m
6. Pygmalion - 6b+ 35m
7. Magnetus - 7c 18m
8. Alexis Zorbas - 7b 18m **
9. Arena - 7c 35m***
10. Jellyfish pie - 7a/7b 35m
11. Kerveros - 7a 30m
12. Neska Polita 7c+ 20m***
13. Daniboy - 8a 20m ***
14. Spartacus - 7b+ 20m ***
15. Spartacus Maximus - 7c 45m (Extension Spartacus)
16. Gladiator - 7b 25m ***
17. Harakiri - 6b 28m ***
18. Tzatziki - vikiki 7c 35mm ** (Extension Harakiri).
19. King Cobra - 7c+ 15m (2nd pitch of Harakiri)
20. Mon batchounousougounoudoudou - 6c+ 30m **
21. Les amazones - 6c 30m ***
22. Aphrodisia - 6c+ 35m**(70m rope)
23. Nabuchodonosor - 6c 35m **
24. Le 13eme travail d' Hercules - 6b+ 35m **
25. Tales of Greek Heroes - 6b+ 35m
26. Lucifer's hammer - 6c 40m (70m rope)
27. Spasspatour 45m *** (multipitch project).
1st SL - 6a+ 30m
2nd SL - 6b 15m.


38. Afternoon.
Access: The same access as for Grande Grotta. On the left of the big cave.(North facing grey slab).
Routes:
1. Harlem Nights - 7b+/7c 17m*
2. The beginning at the end - 7c 17m*
3. Project - 9a/9a+ 55m same start as Titantrope.(80m rope)
4. Titantrope - first 20m 7c+ or 65m 8c+/9a (80m rope)***
5. Ibiscus Market - first 25m 5b or 55m 8b+(80m rope) ***
6. The path to Deliverance 8a/8a+ 20m***
7. Spartan Wall - 8b 20m (20m scramble climbing 5c with no bolts and then the 20m -8b)
8. Finger piercing - 4a 17m*
9. Energy 4 th May 2000 - 4b 17m
10. To deftero moro mou - 5c 17m **
11.Origano - 5a 18m**
13. Nonno ringo - 5c 18m
14. L'amico Ralph - 5c 18m**
15. L'uomo che non credeva - 6a+ 18m **
16. Beta - 7b+ 35m (2nd pitch of L'uomo che non credeva)
17. Kalo taxidi - 6a 20m **
18. Blu - 6a 20m***
19. Dinosaur Junior - 7b 30m*** (2nd pitch of Blu)
20. Claire - 6b+ 20m *
21. Bye bye doc - 6c 25m***
22. Janas kitchen - 6a+ 25m***
23. Asklipios - 6c 22m**
24. Panakia - 6b+ 22m ***
25. Swiss baby - 6a 25m ***
26. Tsopanakos (2 pitches)
1st SL -6a 18m**
2nd SL -6a+ 23m**
27. My long holiday - 6c 25m**


39. Grande Grotta.
Access: After the hotel Filoxenia at the end of Masouri village look for the white pillar and follow the red marks towards the impressive large cave. (South facing). Attention: Some stalactites can fall causing serious injuries to climbers whom are standing bellow.

Routes: 1. Massalia 100m (4 pitches) ***
1st SL - 6a+ 25m
2nd SL - 5c 25m
3rd SL - 5c 25m
4 th SL - 5c 25m
Спуск по веревке с Panorama 2X30m.
2. Aegialis - 7c 30m ***
3. Zawinul Syndicate - 7c/7c+ 30m***
4. Aphrodite - 7a+ 10m ***
5. D.N.A - First 20m 7a+ or 50m 8a+*** (80m rope)
6. Ivi - 7b 20m***
7. Priapos - 7c+/8a+ 55m (all in one pitch)
1st SL 7c 35m
2nd SL 8a+ 20m *** (Super Priapos)
25 quick draws needed.
8. Fun de chichunne - 8a/8a+ 40m (draws needed and 75m rope.)
10. Elefanten himmel - 5a 5a first 15m 7a next 15m ***
11. Trella - 6c+ 40m *** (70m rope ).
12. Monahiki elia - 6a+ 25m ***
13. Taz - 6c 27m**
14. Kaly Pige - 6c+ 35m**


40. Panorama.
Access: On the right of Grande Grotta with the same approach.
Routes:
1. Rastapopoulos (2 pitches)
1st SL -6c+ 30m
2nd SL- 7b+ 40m *** (70m rope)
2. Aegean sea - 7a+ 28m ***
3. Cigarillo 70m (2 pitches)
1st SL - 7a 28m ***
2nd SL - 8a+.42m ( Papakostopoulos). Possible in one pitch with 80m rope
4. Panselinos - 6b 20m ***
5. Carpe Diem 40m (2 pitches)
1st SL - 6b 16m
2nd SL 7c 24m*** (Super Carpe Diem).
6. Joggel & Toggel
1st 25m 6c+ *** the next 20m
7b+ and the last 25m 8a+.(80m rope)
7. Commandant Marcos 6c+/7a 25m
8. Mind boggle - 7b+? 30m
9. Lulu in the sky - 7b 40m (16 quikdraws)
10. Eolia (2 pitches)
1st SL - 6c 30m
2nd SL - 7a+ 45m*** (Super Eolia) (80m rope).
Lothar's club wall
11. Gwundernase - 6b+ 20m **
12. Ruesselparadies 80m***
1st SL - 7a+ 45m
2nd SL - 6c+ 35m
21 quick draws. For the abseil follow the yellow path 60m to the right.
13. Lothar scie - 6b+ 20m
14. Lothar La - 7a+ 25m(Extension Lothar scie)
15. Steven up - 6c+ 20m
16. Steven up up - 7a+? 20m
17. Poupetskaia - 7a+ 20m
18. Uncle Bert - 6c 20m
19. Steps Ahead - 7a+ 20m (Extension Uncle Bert)
20. Uncle Ernie - 6b 20m
21. Cyclops - 6c 20m***
22. Neptun kl - 6c 28m , 7b+ 35m ***
23. Super Neptun - 7a 35m (Extension Neptun kl.)
24. Steinpilz - 7a 30m ***
25. Chnosi family - 6c+ 30m ***
26. Tuefeli - 7a+ 30m ***
27. Mecki messer - 7a 30m ***
28. Boomerang - 6c 30m ***
29. Michis Hohlenfieber - 4c 15m (for children)
30. Reptil 6c+ 40m **
31. Bye bye Felix - 6c+ 40m ***
32. Eureka 6a 25m **
33. La vie selon gege - 6b 30m *


41. Stankill
Access: Between Panorama and Kalydna.
Routes:
1. Titan - 6b*
2. Duo - 6a+**
3. Stankill - 6a+**
4. String - 4a**
5. Krackoly - 7c?**
6. Lyrix - 7b***
7. Zack - 6c**
8. Plagnolis - 6c+***
9. Tonic - 6b+**
10. Noynoy - 6a+**
11. Hugox - 5b**
12. Paulix - 5b+***
13. Bobo - 5c+***


42. The Ivory Tower.
Access: Left of Kalydna.
Routes:
1. Happiness - 6c
2. Happiness Extension - 7b+
3. Sidewinder - 6b+
4. Anaphylactic Shock - 8a
5. The Craic - 7b+ (loose bits)
6. Dream Line - 7b?
7. Ivory Tower - 7b/8a
8. ?


43. Kalydna.
Access: Located between Stankill and Iannis. To approach either use the same as for Panorama and traverse to your right or use the access for Poets and turn left and upwards after ten minutes walking. (South West facing slab, wall, overhanging).
Routes:
1. Ultimi bucci - 6b
2. Fuga da Guy (4 pitches) project, rope 70 m.
1st SL - 5c
2nd SL - 6a ((not equipped yet).
3rd SL - 6c
4 th SL - 6b/4c
3. No name (3 pitches).
4. Mitra (3 pitches) ***
1st SL - 7a
2nd SL - 7b
3rd SL - 7a
5. Fragment (2 pitches)
1st SL - 5c
2nd SL - 6c
6. Yebus - 6c**
7. Fran-Fran - 7a+***
8. Tassir - 7a***
9. Calida - 6c+***
10. Sickle - 7a***
11. Uschana - 6b+***
12. Aurora - 8a 50m (the first 35m 7a+ the last 15m 8a. 10m easy scramble to the first belay).
13. Theodora - 6c+***
14. Kalynikta 36m (2 pitches)
1st SL - 6b***
2nd SL - 7b***
15. Ixion - 7b***
16. Extra - 6a+***
17. Nickel - 7b***
18. Late evening light - 6a+**


44. Iannis.
Access: To the left of Poets using the same access. (South facing).
Routes:
1. Fenceguest - 6b+ 30m **
2. Ypakoe - 6c+20m*
3. Kalotina - 6a 15m
4. Petranta - 7b 25m
5. O Dragonian Devil - 8c
6. Sevasti - 7b+18m***
7. Themelina - 7c18m***/7c+ 33m***
8. Super Themelina - 7c+/8a 33m
9. Tufa King Pumped 7b 25m


45. Poets.
Access: At the end of Masouri village and opposite hotel Continental a sign on the wall indicates the beginning of the path to Poets. Start walking on a steep concrete road and then follow the blue marks.(South facing slab, wall, overhanging).
Routes:
1. Propolis 70m (2 pitches)
1st SL - 5c+ 35m(expo bolting)
2nd SL - 6a 35m
2. Minos 50m (2 pitches)**
1st SL - 3c 20m
2nd SL - 7a 30m
3. Kavafis 50m (2 pitches)
1st SL - 20m
2nd SL - 6b 30m
4. Damokles - 6a+ 27m
5. Charles Bukowski - 6c 20m
6. Iris - 6b 30m**
7. Saxonia - 6a**
8. Quando tramonta ill sol - 6a+ **
9. Dryads - 6b ***
10. Mustass - 5c **
11. Styx - 6a+***
12. Oreads - 6b***
13. Palamas - 6c***
14. Solomos - 6c+***
15. O brothers - 6b+/6c 20m
16. Omero - 7a ***
17. Sapfo - 6a+ ***
18. Pindaros - 4c *
19. Alceo - 6c **
20. Licimnio - 6c **
21. Alcmane - 6c 30m **
22. Anacreonte - 5c ***
23. Ibria - 6c **
24. Jone - 7a+ **
25. Ouzo - 5c 25m **
26. Metaxas - 6a+ 20m ***
27. M.A.O. - 6a 22m**
28. Kalimera - 6b+ 18m *
29. Kalispera - 6a+ 18m *


46. White Shark.
Access:
Routes:
1. The Wave - 7a ***


47. Zeus.
Access: To the right of Poets using the same access. 5 min walk from Poets
Routes:
1. Kallisto - 6c+/7a 28m***
2. Gianymede - 6a+/6b 28m**
3. Isabel - 6b 35m*
4. Pipe Cleaner - 7a+ 18m
5. Demetra - 4a 1st 30m and 8m more 5c*
6. Ifaistos - 6c+ 30m***


48. Meltemi
Access: Follow the red path on the right of Zeus through two fenced gates and continue upwards. You meet the first three routes on your left and for the rest continue right following the stone marks. Total walking time 50 - 60 min. Routes 1 & 6 offer easy access to the summit.
Routes:
1. West way - 4c 60m
2. Siroco - 6c 30m
3. Pounenti - 6b 30m (угол)
4. Agnes - 4c 60m
5. Thermopyla - 6b+ 60m (два pitches)
6. Chimney - 4a 10m

MYRTIES

49. Gerakios.
Access: From Myrties heading for Panormos just before the main road starts going up take a left turn on a cement road which goes over and around the village of Myrties back to Masouri. After 400m you will meet a white pillar on the right indicating the beginning of the path to this sector. 30 min walking time.
Routes:
1. Stefanos - 6a
2. Zio Gio - 5c
3. Little Gio - 6a+
4. '' The English way ''- 5a 175m (trad)

TELENDOS


50. Eros.
Access: : From Myrties you take a small boat across to Telendos and follow the trial to St Konstantinos on the right side (north) of the island along the seaside. After the second beach you meet a sign ''eros'' and you follow the blue spots for about 30min. When you meet the left turn for the monastery continue straight following the blue marks for another 15min.(East facing wall, overhanging)
Routes:
1. Aphrodite - 6c 24m **
2. Nymphi - 6c+ 15m **
3. Mira que tinc - 7b 20m (6 bolts)
4. Eros - 7a+ 20m ***
5. Adonis - 6c+/7a 22m.***
6. Tremendos en Telendos - 7a+ 27m (9 bolts).

50. Saint Constantine.
Access: The same as for Eros but you must take the left turn and upwards below the little white monastery of Konstantinos. (East facing)
Routes:
1. Vasilopoula - 6c 20m (project)
2. Ploutonios - 6a 25m (project)
3. Voutihtis - 6b 25m (project)


51. Telendos, North Face.
Access: Use the first part of the access for Eros but after paradise beach 20 min uphill walking towards the obvious almost 200m high crag.
Routes:
1. Gelitokit 100m (5 pitches)
1st SL - 6a+ 20m.
2nd SL - 6b+ 30m
3rd SL - 5c 25m
4 th SL - 6a 15m
5th SL - 5c 10m

KAMARI

52. Mystere
Access: Left of Ourania
Routes:
1. Bouc et mystere - 7a+ 27m**
2. Katifelix - 6c+ 30m**
3. Zikenschule - 6b 18m*
4. Mystere et boule de gomme - 6c+ 30m***
5. Miss Terre - 5c 30m**
6. Klettern Paradise - 7b 25m***
7. Stranger in Paradise - 7a+ 25m***
8. Paradis artificial - 7a+ 25m***
9. Olympicos - 6c 35m**
10. Aquarella - 7a 30m**
11. Tufa's story - 6a+ 25m*
12. Son vent hous des windes - 7a 25m**


53. Ourania.
Access: Use the same as for Symblegades to your left you will see a big cave. North west facing.
Routes:
1. Terra incognita - 7a 25m***
2. Ourania - 8a 20m**
3. Stars war - 7c/7c+ 20m**
4. Facatelendos - 6b+ 30m**
5. Sponge beach - 7b+ 20m**


54. Symblegades Petres.
Access: Heading from Myrties to Panormos following the main road at the top of the hill just before taking the road downwards to Panormos make a left turn where the sign for hotel Kamari is and follow the blue marks witch will lead you to a building under construction. Park there and continue on foot for 15min following the blue marks. A gorge 15 - 20m wide with routes on the west, east and north face.(Slab, wall, overhanging).
Routes:
Pyrsos - 6b 35m a two min walk before entering the gorge on your left.
In the Gorge West Face.
1. Mikes bikes - 6a 15m**
2. Carlo Juliani - 6a 16m **
3. Anemodarmeni - 5c+ 20m **
4. Climbers nest - 6a 28m***
5. KVR - 6b 30m
6. Phineas - 5b 22m ***
7. Homo Sapiens 6c 25m ***
8. Kamari - 6c+ 25m **
9. Katsaplias - 6c+ 25m **
10. Ermix - 6c+ 25m **
11. T.N.T - 6c 25m
12. Bubuki - 6c 28m ***
13. Drama - 6a+ 25m **
14. Opera - 6b
15. Ivan - 5c 25m
East Face.
16. Igel - 7a 20m**
17. Iason - 6b+ 20m **
18. Skorpios - 6a 25m ***
19. Elpinor - 6b 20m
20. Vasilis - 5b+ 20m **
21. Philoxenia - 6a+ 20m**
22. Valery + Thomas 5b+ 20m**
23. Octana - 6b 20m ***
North Face.
24. Sehnsucht - 6c 10m
25. Peristeri - 7a 10m *


KANTOUNI

55. Austrians.
Access: From the left side of Kantouni beach take the path along the sea side under the church of St Athanasios. After 100m leave the main path and continue to your left and upwards following the small red marks for 15min. This sector has also some boulder routes. ( West facing slab, wall, overhaning).
Routes:
1. Pax - 6a+ 10m **
2. Glasperlenspiel - 7b 20m *
3. Orca 6b 15m *
4. Read Tears - 6b 10m **
5. Gemini - 7b 20m **
6. Alamgest - 8a 20m
7. Happy birthday Magic - 8a 15m
8. Broken Hammer - 7a+ 15m
9. N.R.G 7b+ 20m
10. Gibt's Doch Garnet 6c 20m **
Boulder routes (Fb scale).
1. Pusher - 7a
2. Heat is on - 6a
3. Eureka - 7a+
4. Banom show - 7b


56. Mantres.
Access: The same as for Austrians but instead of turning left towards the crag continue on the main path for another 5 min. The sector is just before the only white wall, to your left.
Routes:
1. Stefanos Backyard (2 pitches)
1st SL 20m
2nd SL 25m
2. Boulder. Be - 4c 23m
3. Up to Glaros bar - 5c 23m (expo bolting)
4. Climbing house - 5c 23m
5. Andantino - 6b+20m
6. Ragnarok - 6c18m


57. Monastery.
Access:Using the same access for Austrians instead of turning left continue straight ahead following the path. After 15 -20 min you will meet a white wall on your right. Continue walking for 10 - 15 more min and look for yellow marks on your left witch will lead you to the crag. At the end of the main path you will find the small monastery of St Fotios. (South facing slab, wall, overhanging).
Routes:
1. Petoiva -6a 30m ***
2. Mythos -6b 30m ***
3. Cresme -6b 30m ***
4. Prep -7a 15m **
5. Aftershave -6b+ 20m **
6. Ragh -6b+ 20m **
7. Amita -6a 25m***
8. Octopodi -5c+ 20m **
9. Privato -5b 20m **
10. Luna calante -5c 18m ** .
11. Baby -5c+ 15m.
12. Tabacco e vinere -6a+ 20m ***
13. Il soffio di Eolo -6b+ 25m **
14. Charybdis -7a 23m**
15. Project - ?
16. Pipo -6b 20m***
17. Coky -6c 20m***
18. Nikita -6c+ 20m **
19. L&rsquoorsetto -6c 20m **
20. Sherpani -6b 25m **
21. Task force -7c 25m ***


58. Saint Fotios.
Access: The same as for Monastery but continue walking on the main path to the small church of St Fotios. The sector is actually a few min after it.
Routes:
1. Danone - 6b 27m ***
2. Diableretes - 6a+ 27m ***
3. Omega - 6c 25m **
4. Picorama - 7a+ 25m *
5. Livanos - 6a 40m**
6. Kalenka - 6a+ 30m**
7. Icare - 7a+ 20m **
8. Erag - 7a 25m ***
9. Cartier - 6a 25m ***
10. Antartic - 6a 25m **
11. Hydria - 7a+ 25m *
12. Vikos - 6b+ **
13. Captain Corelis 6c 27m ***
14. L' endurance 7a 27m**
15. Primo 6b 27m*

PYTHARI

59. Nera.
Access:
Routes:
1. Manolis - ?
2. Dango - ?
3. Linaria - ?
4. Sfiri Koftero - ?
5. .....Irene - 6a
6. Kall - 6c.


HORA

60. Prophet Ilias.
Access: From the left side of the Fortress of Hora follow the dirt road witch is actually the beginning of the trekking route for the islands summit (Prophet Ilias 679m). Leaving behind the west wall of the Fortress at the end of the dirt road, turn right and continue upwards for 15min.
Routes:
1. Project - ?
2. Mirionis - 7b*** (Left of the cave).
3. Epios - 6c** (Right side of the cave).
4. Project - 5c
5. Project - ? (In the little cave)
6. Project - ?


61. Dodoni.
Access:At the village of Hora in the gorge right of the fortress 10min walk from the olive oil factory on the right of the gorge.(West facing slab, wall).
Routes:
1. Maria - 6a ***
2. Anna 6a+ ***
3. Themelina - 6b 28m ***
4. St George school - 6a+ 30m**
5. Chocorelo - 6c 28m**
6. Apple - 6a+ 28m***
7. Yogo beries 6b 28m***
8. Dodoni - 6b 28m***
9. Parfait - 5c 28m***
10. Moca - 5b **
11. Game boys - 5a **
12. Stratsiatela - 5c **
13. Nuts and berries 5a **

VLYHADIA

62. Sea Museum.
Access:At the village Vlyxadia, at the end of the beach (west) follow the narrow road after the museum and the kafenion on your right. After 50m turn left and follow the way up to the house. From there on follow the blue signs until the crag. 10 minutes total walking from the beach, north facing.
Routes:
1. Shark Mouth - 6a 20m*
2. Nemo - 5c+ 15m*
3. Captain Hook - 6b 20m**
4. Fugu - 6b 20m**

VATHI

63. Rina (Vathy Fiord).
Routes:
1. Hook (2 pitches project).
Access: About 100m from Rinas small harbor, on the left of the fiord, in the center of a big steep red cliff, starting from sea level.
1st SL - 7c
2nd SL - 7b
2. Puerto escondido (2 pitches project).
On the right of the fiord 150m from Rina's harbor on a white amphitheatric cliff, starting from sea level.
1st SL - 6c+
2nd SL - 7c
3. Socratic swimming lessons - 5b/7a
(bulder).
On the right side of Rina's harbor with the first 250m relatively easy 5b/c. The second part about100m has moves of 6c+/7a. Return either along the wall or swimming.


64. Cross.
Access: At Vathi village from the area called Metoxi follow the street signs for "Panagia Kura Psili". The narrow road wonders in between small houses and orchyuards and continues through sheepfolds, climbing uphill. At the top of the hill stands a small church. From the small church 15min walk to your right (east). South facing slab.
Routes:
1. Come Vathi? (3 pitches) 120m
12 quick draws needed.
1st SL - 6b+
2nd SL - 6c
3rd SL - 4a


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