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Shipton Spire, 5852м
Haina Brakk, 5852 m
The material is granted pleasantly by Bernard Domenech for publication at the web-site Mountain.RU.
Shipton Spire, 5852m
Haina Brakk, 5852 m
1-Inch Allah 1998, 2-Baltese Falcon 1996,
3 - attempt 1992 and 4-Ship of Fools
In 1929 Ardito Desio named this majestic mount “Haina Brakk”, that in terms of English meant “a Mirror”, this name was prompted to him by local porters, who helped him in that expedition. They also told him an ancient legend that ages an ages ago several village guys completed traverse of the canyon Sarpo Laggo, and, after long endless storm, a delightful wall, sparkling in the sun like a Mirror, opened up before their eyes.
Nowadays on the Shipton Spire (the name of the wall, left by Americans) there are seven routes.
CHRONIKLE OF MASTERING THE WALL
South-Eastern Wall, route Baltese Falcon
C. Boyd, G. Child and G. Foweraker (USA) ascended along the South-Eastern wall, the ascent took them 20 day, on the 28 th of July they reached the top. Baltese Falcon: 1300 m , 36 ropes, VII 5.11/A4 and 600 meters of fixed ropes. The middle part of the route is extremely hanging. The line passed by Americans is less “opened” than the line of the earlier attempt, that had been held in August 1992 by their nationals M. Bebie, C. Boyd, G. Collum and A. Selters who had successfully passed all problem strips and, when 200 meters up to the top had rested, had to began the descent along their way up because of terrible weather. Up to that moment: 35 ropes, VII 5.10/A4 and 60°.
North-Eastern Wall, route Ship of Fools.
J. Ogden and M. Synnott ( USA ) made the second ascent (in 25 working days), but that time along the North-Eastern wall.
Ship of Fools is located to left from the line of attempt made in 1992. They reached the top on the 6 th of August. 1300 m , 27 ropes VII 5.11/A2+ and 6 ice strips.
South-Eastern Wall, route Inch Allah
To the left from Baltese Falcon. Americans Steph Davis, K. Harvey and S. Shaw on 13-25 of July passed a new route Inch Allah: 1300 m , 30 strips VII 5.12/A1.
Quick repeat – two years later J. Copp and M. Pennings ( USA ) climbed up along Inch Allah in 3 days.
South - Eastern Wall , route Akelarre
J. R. Eskibel, J. Larra с aga and A. Ortiz ( Spain ) left one more route on the South-Eastern wall: Akelarre, to the left from the line of attempt made in 1992, two months of working (July-August). Akelarre, 1150 m VI 5.10d A4. 3 intervening camps.
South-Eastern Wall, route Women and Chalk.
In a period from the 26 th of July to the 10 th of August Mauro Bole, M. Cortese and F. Dandri ( Italy ) invented a new line Women and Chalk ( 1150 m ) in the middle between routes Akelarre and Baltese Falcon. The ascent lasted 13 days, “Bubu” worked as a leader on the route he passed 29 strips of the route on-sight. The 16th strip was of 8a grade of difficulty, other 28 strips varied from 6c, among them at least 13 strips were not easier than of 7b grade of difficulty.
The Southern Ridge, route Khanadan Buttress
And, finally, in August 2002 B. McMahon and J. Wharton (USA) put the final touch: made the route Khanadan Buttress along the Southern Ridge ( 1300 m , VI 5.11R C1). The ascent took them 2,5 days (including climbing up and down).
Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007 starts on June, 24 from Moscow .
Object of ascent: Haina Brakk (Shipton Spire) - 5852m.
Top Нaina Brakk* is located in the Northern provinces of Pakistan , in Karakoram range . From apart the wall seems ideally smooth. Due to what the mountain also received its name.
The main aim is to place the Russian trace on the wall and open a beautiful and logical line.
Today on June, 24 the Moscow Karakoram Expedition Haina Brakk Direct 2007 starts from Moscow for the capital of Pakistan Islamabad at 15.00.
Denis Savel'ev - the head of the expedition.
a strongest rock-climber and alpinist. In his bag various climbs in Caucasus Mountains .
team's irreplaceable member, ascents in Caucasus , Tien-Shan.
a strongest sportsman. Ascents: Chatyn in winter, Peak Schurovskogo, Erydag, etc.
a correspondent of a climbing magazine.
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