Spirada

Mount Spirada is located above the settlement “Opolznevoe”. Extension of the massif equals several kilometers. Most of the massif is 100-150 meters high, but there are also some towers of more then 200 meters high. We have chosen the very right tower as Alexei had found an optimal way of approach and designed the line of our future ascent. The approach from the road took us 1.5 hours along cuttings in the forest and ground roads, and the upper meters before the bottom of the route we stole through bushes.

The place is wild, very few ascents were made to this mount, through hearsay, there is only one route formed.

The route itself presents a logical line along the edge. It seemed to be easier, we thought it was 4 grade of difficulty, but took much equipment and didn’t feel sorry for it. As a result we came across about 200 meters of 6a A2 grade of difficulty.

Deion if the route strip by strip.

0-1. Climbing up along easy rocks for 5-7 meters, then difficult traverse to the crack, then along the crack, you should round the cornice to the right, then climb along the system of interior angle, come to a big grassy ledge. Station has to be made on your own hooks.

1-2. Traverse to the right along the ledge, then climbing up for 20 meters along easy rocks. Station has to be made on your own hooks or hexes.

2-3. Difficult climbing up along the crack, belay can be organized with the help of hooks, in the upper part of the crack there is light overhanging. Station has to be made on the ledge, there is a bolt. Extension of the strip equals 40 meters, grade of difficulty – 6a.

3-4. difficult climbing along the interior angle, belay can be organize with the help of large and middle cam devices, then you have to come to the horizontal ridge, it is better to make a station to the right from the ridge. Extension of the strip equals 25 meters, grade of difficulty – 5c-6a.

4-5. Along 5-meter long narrow ridge you should come to the wall, further you have to climb up for 10 meters using self-made points of rest along narrow cracks (hooks, relief sky hooks can be used, there is one bolt). Then the relief becomes reach, you can move up by free-climbing. At first climb up along the interior angle, then along the rack up and to the left. Station has to be made in the place where the wall becomes less sloping on your own points. Extension of the strip equals 50 meters, grade of difficulty – 6a A2.

5-6. Up and to the left in the direction of the beginning of the interior angle, then along the angle you have to come to the top. Extension of the strip equals 40 meters, grade of difficulty – 5c.

You can descend along the couloir to the left from the tower. In the upper part of it you will have to climb a little and then go on descending along the screes.
The massif of Spirada is rich for new routes of different grades of difficulty. There are a lot of lines that have been never passed yet. The relief is rich, rock is mostly monolithic. Minuses of the massif are long approaches and absence of water under the wall.