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Author: Aleksey Lavrinenko, Odessa

The Crimea. Mount Mshatka-Kaja. Routes passed for the first time.
Results for six months

Route “Ne tuda!” (“Not that way!”), 5B grade of difficulty 270 m long 6b A3
T. Tsushko – A. Lavrinenko, February 2007.

We had an idea to climb via a big cornice to the right from “Rigiy Vival” (“Red fall”), photos gave us hope – along the center of the cornice a crack could be seen. But when we got closer we understood that it was not a crack but a track of a piece of rock that had fallen down. Having given up the beautiful idea and having avoided cold night-passing, we reached the top, having made an interesting zigzag.

Approach to the route and first two ropes coincided with the route “Treugolnik sleva” (“Triangle to the left”)

Strip 2-3. To the right along the ledge, then upwards in the direction of a tree, you should move to the left from the tree and come to the ledge, to the bottom of an interior angle. Along the interior angle upwards for 10 meters , grade of difficulty of the strip – 5c, then you should come to a broad-leaved tree. Station can be made there. Extension of the strip equals 50 m , climbing there is very easy, last ten meters – 5c grade of difficulty. Belay can be organized on hooks and stoppers.

Strip 3-4. Along the interior angle up for 7- 8 meters , grade of difficulty – 5c, then you should come to easy rocks and climb upwards and to the right for 20 meters , station has to be made on a small ledge above a thin broad-list tree. Extension of the route is about 30 meters .

Strip 4-5. Along the plate with short cracks at first you have to climb up, then, having reached a small ledge, climb using self-made points of rest up and to the left, come to the ledge in upper part of the interior angle. Station can be made there, there is a bolt. Extension of the route equals 40 meters , grade of difficulty – 6aA2.

Strip 5-6. From the station climb up along the crack in the direction of a bolt. From the bolt you have to shake to the right for 2- 3 meters and along the plate climb to the short crack with grass. Further you should climb using self-made points of rest along the plate of 65-70 degrees steep anchors, hooks can be used, hole for sky-hooks 8 mm can be found, at the end of the ledge you have to come to a red stain, there the plate becomes less steep and the relief is richer. Below overhang you have to make traverse to the right and, rounding the cornice, climb up along the hanging interior angle to the mountain pasture. Extension of the route is 50 m , grade of difficulty – 6bA3.

Necessary equipment contains hooks, anchors, stoppers, cam devices, different sky hooks, not less than 2 items of hole ones.


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