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Author: Denis Savel'ev, Moscow
Fragments of Freedom.
Russian route on Haina Brakk. 33 pitches, 1450m, A4, 6b
From July, 18 till July, 31, 2007 Moscow Demchenko Club team paved an absolutely new line on Haina Brakk (Shipton Spire) Southeast face (5852 m), Pakistan , Karakoram.
1. С lass: high-altitude-technical.
2. Area: Pakistan , Karakoram
3. Object: Haina Brakk (Shipton Spire), 5852 m, new route.
4. Grade: declared 6B (Russian grade)
5. Route Deion:
- Altitude difference - 1250 m.
6. Fixed Pro:
- Rocky pitons - 20/20
7. Running hours - 151
Days - 13+1 day (descent, 7 hours).
8. Spending the night: 14 (portaledge)
9. Team members:
Savel'ev Denis, leader, master of sports
10. Kuznetsova E.V., coach
- Start the route 18.07.07
The route leads between Baltese Falcon and Women and Chalk ones via a series of deaf cracks up to a huge two-sided Great Dihedral and further on it. Not crossing and not joining neighboring routes the line goes independently up to the summit ridge.
All the stations are almost bolted - basically on 2 anchors Hilti (8х50мм)- very safe, but somewhere it's is based on one anchor. As a rule it is possible to fix your own gear there. But all of them are inconvenient - hanging.
We did not bolt the route except for three bolts for safer belay at one pitch of the upper sector while we were climbing the mirror. We used to set anchors because it was practically impossible to climb the route without using of additional bolts.
We would like to extend great appreciation to our helpers and sympathizers, in particular:
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