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Author: Aleksey Lavrinenko, Odessa

The Crimea. Mount Merdven-Kaja. Routes passed for the first time.
Results for six months.

Route “Podarok” (“Present”), 4B grade of difficulty.
Lavrinenko A., Tcushko T.

Approach starts from the place where to the Hergiani rock an earth road goes. Along the path you should go up, turning to the right, rounding Hergiani rock, then along the couloir, sometimes easy climbing, you should come to a big sloping grassy ledge. Along the ledge upwards and to the left, for about 100 meters , the start of the route is above a small deciduous tree, along a skew crack.

Deion of the route strip by strip.

Strip 0-1. 40 meters long, 5c grade of difficulty. You should climb along the crack upwards and to the left for seven meters, then along a system of angles and cracks upwards climbing there is even, it is easy to organize belay (using middle and large cam devices, nuts). Station can be made near withered tree, there is a bolt + you have to use your own hooks.

Strip 1-2. 52 meters long, 5c grade of difficulty. From the station you have to climb upwards and to the right the climb over a big clod, further upwards to an interior angle, then upwards along the angle, turning into chimney (using nuts, hooks), then you should come to a strongly sloping grassy ledge. Along it you can climb upwards and to the left to a big pine-tree. There you should make a station.

Strip 2-3. 54 meters long, 6a, A1 grade of difficulty. From the station you have to climb upwards and to the left, to a small ridge, further climb upwards along interior angles, passing the bottom part you have to be very accurate, lively stones can be found there, further the rock is monolithic, but climbing along it is difficult, belay should be organized with on hooks, nuts, big cam devices.

Station can be made on the tree, somewhat above a big ledge.

Strip 3-4. 50 meters long, 5c/6a grade of difficulty. From the station you should climb upwards, along cracks, to the right from a big interior angle, then climb along the plate with shells upwards and to the left, come to a big angle, further climb along the angle, the station has to be made at the right side of the angle, on your own hooks. (one hook we left there). Belay can be organized on big and middle cam devices, nuts.

Strip 4-5. 30 meters long, 5c grade of difficulty. From the station you have to return to the angle, rounding an overhang to the left along less steep interior angle, then you should come to mountain pasture. You can organize belay on middle and big nuts, hooks.

To pass the route hooks are necessary, but you can manage with anchors (4-5 items). Big cam devices and hexcentrics (6- 10 cm ) are used widely. It is better to have a rope 60 meters long.

Time of passing the route – 4 hours.

Descent through “Tchertova lestnica” (“Devil's Footstep”).

 

Route “Fiesta”, 4A grade of difficulty, 270 meters long, 6a\5cA1.
Lavrinenko A , Miriuk O .

Approach starts from the place where to the Hergiani rock an earth road goes. Along the path you should go up, turning to the right, rounding Hergiani rock, then along the couloir, sometimes easy climbing, you should come to a big sloping grassy ledge. Along the ledge you have to climb upwards to the bottom of an interior angle, along which the route starts.

Deion of the route strip by strip.

Strip 0-1. 55 meters long, 5c grade of difficulty. All the time you have to climb upwards along the angle, difficulty gradually increases. Belay can be organized on big nuts and cam devices you come across can several trees. Station has to be made on the tree in the beginning of a wide chimney.

Strip 1-2. 60 meters long, 5c grade of difficulty. Climbing up along the chimney, then you should creep under a stopper, then along the ledge a little bit to the right, further – climb upwards turning to the left, in the direction of an interior angle, formed by a huge lump and the main wall. All the rope long is rather easy, except 7 meters along an interior angle. Above the angle, turn along the ledge to the left, to a juniper, you can organize a station on it.

Strip 2-3. 53 meters long, 5b grade of difficulty. From the station along a sloping grassy ledge to the left to a pine-tree, when it is left 5 meters the pine-tree along the interior angle, you should move upwards and to the right in the direction of a destroyed interior angle.

Along the angle you have to climb accurately upwards to the pine-tree, from it upwards and to the right along an easy interior angle you should come to a big pine-tree, there you can made a station. Belay can be organized on hooks and trees.

Strip 3-4. 40 meters long, 6a grade of difficulty. Climbing upwards along an interior angle to a tree. From the tree difficult climbing along the crack, belay on big nuts and cam devices. Beyond the bend there is a ledge. Along it upwards and to the left to a more comfortable ledge. There it is a suitable place to make a station.

Strip 4-5. 60 meters long , 5 c -6 a grade of difficulty . From the station upwards and to the right, through two small junipers, then 5 meters to the right and up along the crack, belay can be organized on big and middle stoppers. Two trees should be left to the left, you shouldn't go to them. The crack gradually turns to the left and through small overhang leads you to the mountain pasture.

The route is logical, but it demands some orientation experience. Rocks on the third rope are strongly destroyed, you should climb there very accurately! It is better to have a 60 meters long rope, but you can also take 50 meters long one, there enough trees there, only on the last rope you will have to make a station on nuts or hooks.

It is necessary to take hooks to the route!

Time of passing the route – 4 hours.

Descent through “Tchertova lestnica” (“Devil's Footstep”).

The most pleasant thing is that in summer sun appears on the route only after 11 o'clock a.m.

On Merdven-Kaja about 10 more good routes can be composed, of between 3 and 5 grade of difficulty.

That's it! And they say that in the Crimea everything has already been passed! The main thing is that desire is necessary. Except our routes some more new routes were invented: Shaan-Kaja along the right part – Maximenia (solo), Shaan-Kaja along the center – Voloshanovsky with his team, Ayia – Novoseltcev – Dashkevich, Thelebi Dulnev-Zaitcev, Sokol Kuzminsky – Holodov.


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