Part 1.

Part 2.

From the Glacier of Beliaev (from the south, south-east, general view). 17. Pelehov, 77, diagonally along the South-Western wall. 18. Valiev, 80, along the right counterfort of the South-Western slope and southern wall. 19. Nepomniaschy, 77, along the Center of South-Western wall. 20. Kustovsky, 73, along the South-Western wall. 21. Solonnikov, 81, along the “triangular” and the center of the main bulwark. 22. Mislovsky, 68, along the South-Western wall. 23. Onischenko, 70, along the left counterfort of the South-Western wall. 24. Kakhiani, 55, along the trough from the glacier of Beliaev (only upper part of the route is seen) 25. Kuzmin K., 59, along the counterfort of the South-Western slope. 26. Nevorotin, 79, along the South-Western wall of the Western wall. 29. Kuzmin K, 57, from the glacier of Beliaev via the Peak of Kuibyshev. 30. Belavin, 58 – Nekrasov, 65, along the Northern-Western ridge of the Peak pf Russia (only upper part of the route along the Southern ridge is seen). 34. Efimov, 70, Peak Leningrad – Peak of Communism. 35. Kuzmin J., 69, Peak Garmo – Peak of Communism.

1955. During eighteen years nobody ascended to the summit. Georgian expedition under the direction of O. Gigineishvili passed a new route from the direction of the glacier Garmo (glacier of Beliaev). Along the dangerous wide couloir (where in 1967 an outstanding alpinist from Sankt-Petersburg V. Egorov would die) mountaineers climbed up to the plateau Pravda (6200) and further to the top. Among the members of the storm group there were I. Kakhiani – the leader, L. Ahvlediani, D. Medzmariashvili and M. Hergiani. The team won the first place at the Championship of the USSR in the high-altitude class. The second group, leading by M. Gvarliani, made an ascent to the Peak of Russia (6852), where nobody had been before, and got the second place at the Championship of the USSR in the same class.

1957. From the glacier of Beliaev Moscow “Burevestnik” under the direction of K. Kuzmin stormed the Peak of Communism (this was its name that time). For the first time through the summit 6918 (Peak of Kuibyshev) 19 people got to the Pamir firm Plateau. K. Kuzmin (the leader), I. Bogachev, V. Buianov, V. Vinokurov, I. Galustov, V. Danilov, L. Lebedev, V. Potapov, N. Sharonov, M. Shilkin made an ascent to the Peak of Communism. In the high altitude class the team won gold medals at the Championship of the USSR.

1959. Again the team of Moscow “Burevestnik” passed a new technically difficult route along the counterfort of the glacier of Beliaev. Among the members of the group there were: K. Kuzmin – the leader, V. Danilov, A. Ovchinnikov, V. Potapov, V. Sevostianov. The team got silver medals at the Championship of the USSR.

1961. A new route from the glacier Bivachny was passed by the united team consisted of the group of the Academy and Moscow “Burevestnik”. The leader of the team was E. Tamm (to be the leader of the first Soviet expedition to the Everest in 1982). Membership of the team: A. Belopuhov, B. Bozhukov, B. Baronov, M. Mongard, V. Vinokurov, O. Bragin, V. Dubinin, V. Kolodin, J. Smirnov, V. Smit, V. Tkach, A. Florinsky, V. Tsetlin. In the high altitude class the team won gold medals at the Championship of the USSR.

1965. From the glacier of Beliaev the team of Soviet Army passed as if it was a “new” route to the Peak of Communism, consisted of two strips that had earlier been passed: to be exact, the edge to the plateau Pradva had been passed for the first time by the group from Sankt-Petersburg under the direction of N. Belavin in 1958 during the ascent to the peak of Russia. The second part of the route was passed by the Georgian team in 1955. The team got the third place at the Championship of the USSR in the high altitude class.

1967. From the glacier Bivachny the team of Ukraine passed for the first time a route along the South-Eastern edge. The leader of the team was A. Kustovsky, the members of the team were V. Tcherevko, P. Zaid, V. Kolesnik. In the high altitude class the team won gold medals at the Championship of the USSR. In the same year from the glacier Fortambek Moscow “Burevestnik” managed to get to the Pamir Plateau for the first time. The route got the name “the edge of Burevestnik”. Small height at the Western part of the Plateau got the name “the peak of Parachutists”. Names of the pioneers were: V. Gluhov – the leader, G. Kurochkin, E. Mislovsky, A. Ovchinnikov – the couch, V. Saharov, G. Sergevnin, V. Ivanov, L. Dobrovolsky, j. Zikov, E. Kusov, J. Skurlatov, V. Suloev, A. Shindiaikin.

From the Glacier Fortambek 14. Maksimov, 67, along the edge of “Burevestnik”, through the Big Pamir Plateau and the “Big Barrier”. 15. Hatskevich, 80, a variant along the edge of “Burevestnik”. 16. Getman, 71, from the North to the BPP, to the right from the glacier Tramplinny. 33. Vanin, 75, Peak of Moscow – the Peak of Communism. 36. Bozhukov, 74, Peak of Communism – Peak of Akhmadi-Donish.

1968. 63 mountaineers reached the top of the Peak of Communism during one season. Tens of teams stormed the summit from different sides. The most serious route was passed along the South-Western wall (beyond the bounds of the Championship of the USSR). The leader of that ascent was E. Mislovsky, the couch – A. Ovchinnikov, participants were V. Gluhov, V. Ivanov. The ascent was found the best among the ascents made during the season 1968. All the members of this team got titles “Master of Sport of International Class” and were reward with medals of Sport Committee of the USSR “For Outstanding Sport Achievements”.
The Team of Leningrad Spartak passed a new route from the glacier Bivachny along the Eastern counterfort. The leader and the couch of the team was P. Budanov, members of the team were G. Agranovsky, B. Kletsko, G. Iliinsky, A-r Kolchin, K. Konoplev and J. Ustinov. In the high altitude class the team won gold medals at the Championship of the USSR.
The team of Moscow “Burevestnik” passed the most popular route to the Peak of Communism from the glacier of Walter. The leader of the team was J. Borodkin, the couch of the team was L. Dobrovolsky, the members of the team were E. Masukov, E. Kusov, V. Putrin.
The team “Burevestnik” passed the second according to its popularity route to the Peak of Communism, but from the glacier Fortambek. The route began along the edge of Burevestnik, further it went on up to the end of the plateau, and, through the peak “6900” (Peak Dushanbe) – coming to the top. V. Maksimov was the leader of the team, M. Ahmetshin, A. Balinsky, A. Vodohodov, G. Kurochkin, G. Petrov, E. Streltsov were the members of this group. Moscow “Burevestnik” was very active that year. A new route was declared to the Championship of the USSR: traverse of the peak of Communism (with climbing up to the Plateau along the edge of the Burevestnik) – Peak Izvestia – Peak of Voroshilov (Peak of Donish). V. Bozhukov was the leader of the expedition, K. Kuzmin – the couch, and the members of the team were E. Zaharov, G. Sergevnin, B. Soustin, N. Cherny, V. Suloev. Unfortunately, the beginning of the route was marked with a tragedy. The initiator of the traverse – Valentin Suloev died of cardiac decompensation. He was downed and buried at a giant green meadow of the glacier Fortambek that now is known all around the alpinists’ world as the meadow of Suloev. The team passed this traverse in commemoration of the friend.

1969. The team of Leningrad “Locomotive” passed the traverse Peak Garmo – Peak of Communism and won the first place at the Championship of the USSR in the class of traverses. The leader of the team was J. Kuzmin, the couch of it was R. Ivanov, members of the team were O. Khudiakov, V. Varensov, S. Zysin, B. Laihtman, A. Jakushev, J. Jakushev. 18-km long way, where the mountaineers didn’t descend lower than 6000 m, the team passed in 20 days. Such a prolonged high-altitude route had never been passed up to nowadays.

To be continued…