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ъThe material was prepared by Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Alexander Odintsov: Kizil Asker
Technical characteristics

Kizil Asker, which altitude equals 5842 m, has two tops of about equal height.
We made an ascent to the left Eastern.

The first night we passed at the bottom of the mount on snow-ice slope at the altitude 4300 m.
The wall itself consists of three bulwarks (10+11+14 ropes).
The lowest one is the simplest, grade of difficulty of it is about 5A-5B, it has to be rounded along the ice couloir, there are no places to put a tent, it is necessary to cut the ice, making a place for a bivouac.

The second bulwark overhangs by one third average steepness of the strip is about 93 degrees.
Between the second and the third bulwarks instead of expected nice ledge we came across an ice “knife”.

The upper part of the wall – vertical monolithic granite can not be rounded at all.

Average steepness of the route reaches 70-75 degrees.

We were lucky, the weather was rather fine: there were 2-3 days of comparative bad weather and one whole day of sitting in the camp. It was very cold at nights the “bottle” got chilled through.

The rock there is monolithic, no movable stones at all, in the mornings and in the afternoons thawed out ice-balls flew down.

We started on the 5 th of September, finished on the 14 th of September descent (to the Kyrgyz side) took us 2 days. The slope can be dangerous for avalanches there were no ice at all.
We dug pits, buried sacks and fixed ropes on them.

The style of the ascent was alpine, most part of the route can be passed by free-climbing, overhanging strips we passed using self-made points of rest (when the weather was bad the ratio increased and came to, about, 50x50).

Grade of difficulty of overhanging rocky strips reaches sometimes 8a other strips of rocky route are of 5c-6a grade of difficulty.

The mountain is malicious it gave us all bad things it could (except bad weather).

The best season for making ascents is September (but it can be rather cold).

The region is wonderful, compact, and terse. In one place there are located about 8-10 mountains higher than 5000 meters , and only one of them has a name – Kizil Asker (that means Red Warrior, and I doubt that the name has direct connection with the “Red Army”, it is likely to be given to the mountain due to local sanguineous sunsets).
When you are between two glaciers, you can observe the region wholly.

There are routes to all the minds and tastes: Himalayan, alpine, along the snow, along the ice, along the rocks.

The peculiarity of the region is short summer that lasts from the middle of August to the end of September it means that the period of good weather lasts only 1.5 months.
Before this period the weather is extremely unstable, there can not be two day of good weather running, but there also can't be two days of bad weather on end.

Other feature of the region is its difficultness of access, when the roads become impassable.
The upper part of the valley is covered with grass, growing on loam, so, when it gets wet, ou can do nothing, “only helicopter can fly there”.

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