Guidebook Sokol P.S.

Sector 1

(South-Eastern Wall)

Sector 1

All the routes described below are located on the South-Eastern wall of the Sokol. It is so-called “the first sector”, the nearest to Sudak and CRS. Closeness to the rescuers, dwelling, water and comparative easiness favorably mark out this sector of the Sokol. In this sector easy routes are collected, they do not require advanced alpinistic skills, but on the other hand do not forgive familiar attitude. Among them are such routes as: “Gift Collection” 2B, “Idol” 3B, “Unity” 1B, “Two from the left” 2B, “Want!” 3B, new freeclimbing “Minuet” 6a+ max, “ Chico ” 3B, “Muchacha” 2B and classical “To from the right” 2B. All of them are well-seen from the road and have short footworn approaches, which start from the sign “3 rd km” on the road “Sudak – Noviy Svet”. Approach to the route “Gift Collection” is a little bit different from the other: it is necessary to go along the road in the direction of Noviy Svet for about 300 meters more and then climb up to the red cornice, crossed with a crack (it looks like a big letter X) in the lower side of the lower bulwark. The crack itself presents the beginning of the route. What this part of the Sokol is also good for, it is the fact that in the afternoon the Sun doesn't burn hard and it is possible to be on the wall not under the threat of heat stroke. As the routes here are not very distant, if you want, it is possible to pass two routes and you will have time to pass the third one.

“Two from the right” 2B grade of difficulty [#1]

R0–R1: 35- 40 meters long, 5a+. Even climbing up along the crack. Station R 1 can be made on two pine-trees.

R1–R2: 35 meters long, 5a+. Even climbing up along the crack. Station R 2 can be made on a big pine-tree to the right from the crack in 7- 8 meters (slanting forehead).

R2–R3: 50 meters , 6a. Climbing straight upwards, the orienteer is a pine-tree on the edge on the pasture, key strip of the route – steep crack at coming out to the pasture (the last 15 meters up to the pine-tree), station can be made on the pine-tree.

Recommended Equipment:

Rope 50 meters long, standard set of nuts, 8-10 quickdraws, 2-3 big and 2 middle loops.

General impression:

This is short, very logical route of the second grade of difficulty. Time of passing the route by average two-man team equals 1.5 hours. It is also possible to pass the route breaking it not to three, but to four strips, cutting R2-R3 to two more strips. In the photo the variant with four strips is shown.

Muchacha * 2B grade of difficulty [#2]

(A. Kuzminsky – E. Hvorost, November 2005)

R0–R1: 50 meters long, 5b grade of difficulty. The beginning coincides with the “right two”, then to the left to an interior angle, the belay is easy to organized all the rope long, you should be careful on passing the diagonal crack (~15 m) – the edge is destroyed there. It is possible to make a station on the upper juniper on a comfortable ledge + your own nuts.

R1–R2: 50m, 5c. At first upwards, then along implicit crack, then along the plate to the right and upwards in the direction of the small bush (parallel to the “Two from the right”), in about 3- 4 meters from the bush there is a bolt, from it 8- 9 meters up to the station under diagonal hanging block. Station can be made on the bolt + small nuts.

R2–R3: 50 meters long, 5c. At first you have to climb upwards along the plate up to the tree, then beautiful long traverse under the “cowstones” to the left, along the crack suitable for organizing belay. Station has to be made on the bolt + your own nuts. This station coincides with the station on the fourth rope on the route “Want!”.

R3–R4: 25- 30 meters long, 4c grade of difficulty. Climb up and to the left to the ledge, along the ledge coming out to the plateau. Station has to be made on the plateau.

Recommended Equipment:

Rope 50- 55 meters long, standard set of nuts and cam devices (without cam devices it may be too hard!), 10-12 quickdraws, 2-3 big and 2 middle loops.

General impression:

Short route of the second grade of difficulty, requires rather high level of climbing. Time of passing the route by average two-man team equals 1.5-2 hours.

* Muchacha – in Spanish means “a girl”

Chico * 3A grade of difficulty [#4]

(S. Nadtochy – E. Gainulov, November 2005)

R0–R1: 50 meters long, 5c+ grade of difficulty. It is easy to organize the belay, large cam devices make organization of belay easier, do not forget to make the quickdraws longer on turning. Station can be made on a suitable ledge on a big tree.

R1–R2: 20 meters long, 4b+. Never mind, it is necessary to organize belay. The station coincides with the station R 1 on the route Muchacha.

R2–R3: 50-55 meters long, 6a. Along two thirds of the route it is not difficult to organize the belay, then there is 9- 10 meters long traverse with climbing up to the left, on which organization of the belay is difficult. Station is to be made on two bolts.

R3–R4 55 meters long, 6a. It is easy to organize the belay as the line of motion goes along the flushing. In the upper part of flushing there is a removable piece of rock, do not throw it down to your colleague, he can dislike it. Further there is coming out to the line of Muchacha.

Recommended Equipment:

Rope 55- 60 meters long, standard set of nuts and cam devices, hammer ,hooks 3-5 items, 4-5 loops.

General impression:

It is difficult to understand what the grade of difficulty of the route is, as it is too short. The first rope looks like usual key strip for the route of 3B grade of difficulty, the second is short and very easy, and the end of the third can make you feel worry… The only thing can console you: you can fall down only with very small factor and moreover, by the pendulum. The fourth rope is very nice for climbing.

* Chico – in Spanish means “a boy”.

Want! 3B grade of difficulty, [#7]

(A. Kuzminsky – S. Nadtochy, November 2005)

R0–R1: 30 meters long, 5b+ grade of difficulty. Climbing in thrust between the wall and block, leaning against it, belay has to be organized on your own points. Station can be made in the interior angle.

R1–R2: 35- 40 meters long, 6a. Accurate climbing up along the crack. Then there is coming out to the ledge and going along in to the right and upwards, to the bottom of the characteristic trough. Station has to be made on the tree.

R2–R3: 35- 40 meters long, 5c. Straight upwards along the line of falling water through small juniper, accurate “plateau” climbing “by determination”, in the key strip there is a bolt. In some meter from the bolt station can be made on another bolt and nuts.

R3–R4: 45- 50 meters long, 5c. Sometimes belay presents (at the first 15- 18 meters there is almost no belay), after the second bolt 927 meters ) – going to the right into the crack. Station has to be made in the crack on a bolt and nuts.

R4-R5 25 meters long, 4c+. Station on the plateau.

Recommended Equipment:

Rope 50- 55 meters long, standard set of nuts and cam devices 12-14 quickdraws, 2-3 big and 2 middle loops.

General impression:

Beautiful logical route requiring perfect level of plate climbing. A lot of climbing by rubbing. Time of passing the route by average two-man team equals 2-2.5 hours. When the weather is bad (rain, mist) the second and the third ropes are difficult to pass.