Добро пожаловать !
Войти в Клуб Mountain.RU

newsclimbski & snowboardadventurephotossearch


Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.
Adventure >
Автор: Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU.
Photo: E. Belyaev, A. Mikhalitsyn, V. Arkhipov.

Skyang Kangri. To Be Continued…

Skyang Kangri, or Staircase Peak, is one of the greatest peak of the Baltoro Muztagh, Karakoram range. Main summit is 7545m and South summit is 7512m.

Since 1909 tried by very few people, it has the further distinction of having been climbed only once. This was by Japanese expedition via East Ridge in 1976 to the South Summit.

In 1980, well-known American climbers Jeff Lowe and Michael Kennedy went to the Karakoram, attempting the West Face of Skyang Kangri, unsuccessfully. They retreated from 7070m.

On June, 23, Krasnoyarian team (Nikolay Zakharov – leader, climbers: Alexander Mikhaylitsyn, Vladimir Arkhipov, Serguey Cherezov, Eugueniy Beljaev, Igor Loginov, and doctor Alexander Kukharev a.k.a. Bormental) camped at the base of the Skyang Kangri.

After a few stormy days at that camp the five them started up a new route on West Face.

Chronicle of events

On July 4. they fixed seven pitches up to a bivouac at 6200m (there wasn’t camp site higher on the wall).
To the end of July 5, they led five more pitches to bivouac at 6550m.

On July 6, resulted in eight pitches being climbed, bivied at 6550m.

On July 7, they headed up to a lower bastion to a point of the next bivy site at 7000m. It was the first fool’s mistake, as the weather deteriorated, and it began to snow hard and steadily. An endless snow-flow streamed down between the tent and the wall, forced tent out.

Not to be push off the ledge they spent the night by raking the snowdrift out and fixing the tent. The next morning Eugueniy Beljaev had a fever, and heavy breathing. Igor Loginov became unwell. Both of them continued alternating leads these days. It was the second mistake as both of them never experienced the high altitude.

Eventually the team made the difficult decision to halt their attempt. They packed immediately and started rappelling early and abseiling back down to the ground and back to BC until dark.

About Skyang Kangri. What they saw in the upper part was vast face of steep crumbling unfeatured limestone and marble rising out of the clouds and extending to the summit. Climbing should be hard and serious, the protection is often tricky and sparse.

Поделиться ссылкой

© 1999-2007 Mountain.RU
Mail to: info@mountain.ru
Рейтинг@Mail.ru Rambler's Top100