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Author: Dmitry Kostukov, Sevastopol
Experience of “Travel Tale”
I can't but share my impressions of climbing multi pitch route “Travel Tale” on Forossky Kant.
The route we passed on Sunday during 5 hours and a half without screamers, but with several delays. In warm weather and with change of the leader time can be reduced.
The route is very correct and safe: just after the ledges the bolts are placed closer to one another on the slabs, where falling is safe, the distances are longer excellent convenient belays.
On my opinion, the most important thing is that no one must go to the “Travel Tale” with sky hooks. The route has several places where crimpers are definite and if they will be split off, then it will be necessary to make chipped hold or its grade will rise so much that it will be available for only a few.
As for grades, I think they are right, but the fourth pitch, may be, is 6B+, not 6B, and the fifth – 6C, not 6C+ (as for me, they are equal).
The sixth pitch is obviously easier than the fourth, they cannot both be 6B.
On the 4 and 5 pitches there are variants of climbing (a meter to the right or left), and the grade depends on it. On the 3 pitch you can't choose much. There are two places where it is incomprehensibly where the feet stand, that's why climbing shoes must be good.
Not serious part.
Last two weeks in Crimea was cold, but the desire for climbing was big. Max and I decided to climb on Forossky Kant. We negotiated to climb on the “Red Angle”. We saw bolt to the left from the “Red Angle”. I climbed . On the first pitch I thought : it ' s really 6 C . It must be easier further. But there such a boulge was seen…
Max was the second, he asks: “Are you sure you want to continue?”
I'm in a perfect mood and I want. We reached the third pitch, I saw the perfect wall, and I climbed on principle “not to search for crimpers, anywhere there is not at all. “ I say “Max, there is something strange. Some sections are much more difficult then the ”Maple Leaf”, for example. (”Maple Leaf” is one of the most popular 7A in Crimea ).
Then the Sun hid, and the wind started blowing. I tried to climb as quickly as I could because I felt that my fingers transform to the pieces of ice.
Next day I visit M.ru and understand that we climbed not “Dupa Zalizova” but the “Travel Tale” and the crux section is 7B, not 6C.
So let's strike by frost-resistant fingers at approaching winter!
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