Author: Poltavetc Eugene and Sipavin Valentin, Kharkov
Crimea , гора Zamok. The route « Соколиный (Sokolinuy)», 6 А (route of YU. Lishaevа , 1985)
In April 2006 the route was rebolted. In the interim points «Kong» were placed (d=10mm, l=50mm) on the belays R1 and R3 - pairs: «nocks» «Kong» (d=12mm», l=90mm) + «Kong» d=10mm, l=50mm.
The route goes along the center wall, by the crack, cutting Zamok from top to bottom , and it looks very logical. From the road you can see rich vegetation on the route. This picture seems to be a a bit unusual: the wall is vertical, in some places it even overhangs, the cracks are vertical, no ledges with soil, but grass is green…
If the route wasn't visited for a long time, it becomes more difficult, and the rate of ascent reduces.
On the belay
In many free climbable places AID is needed, pulling bushes and cleaning the cracks from soil (after every pitch of the first bastion all the clothes, gear and face of the leader were dirty, and looked like a valorous miner).
Over the rich vegetation there are good cracks for belay and holds, and what is the most important,it becomes clear, where to place your feet. Spring is the most inappropriate season for this route . Vegetation is too rich, but in autumn and winter it is easier to climb.
One more negative moment on this route is great number of moving stones. In comparison with «Соколиный (Sokolinuy)»,
other routes on the same mountain - «Чапа (Chapa)- and «Через пещеру (Through the cave)» - are more pleasant. All the second pitch, the lower part of the third one and the upper part of the fourth pitch are especially dangerous. Stones that flew down on the second pitch, flew near the belayer, and one stone fell down on his head, but his helmet Grivel saved him.
The route requires classical belay devices: nuts, friends, hexes, pins. No bird's beaks, sku hooks and other elements of «advanced AID aerobatics» are needed.
Zamok, deion of the route «Соколиный (Sokolinuy)», 6 А
From the road go along the path to the wall. Belay is on the tree, growing on the small grassy ledge.
R0 – R1 : 10 m ,II,50 5m,IV,75 40m,VI,80-95,A2. From the ledge go to the left and upwards by easy inclined rocks (firstly 10m – II, then move 5m – IV) to the crack. Go upwards along the crack firstly by free climbing, then by AID to the bolt ( 25 meters ). Then go upwards 10m more to the belay. Belay is on 2 new bolts «Kong» plus spit. To block all the points a long loop (180 с m) is needed. Belay is hanging.
R1 – R2 : 45m, VI, 90, A2. On this section try not to throw down stones. From the belay go upwards with AID (pins) 5m by the crack, then traverse 2m to the right crack. Go 5m upwards along it, traverse 3m to the left crack. Go along it firstly by free climbing, then by AID (pins) to the cave. In the cave there is a bolt. On the section there are old pins. Russian alpinist Maxim Kostrov, who sent « Соколиный (Sokolinuy)» in winter 2005 by free climbing , recommended to move all the time by the right crack. From the cave traverse to the right through the wall to the crack (in the beginning of the traverse in the crack there is a pin in the grass). Then go upwards along the crack by free climbing, sometimes AID. There are many moving stones. Last 3 m till the ledge are easier. Move along the ledge to the left to the big pine-tree. There a belay is. From this tree you can apseil to the cave and the previous belay.
R2 – R3 : 20m,V,80 20–25m,VI,90. From the right edge of the ledge move upwards and to the left by the crack. Firstly climb (20m, V) till the end of the crack on the left. There are many moving stones and grass. Then go with AID by the crack in the while lime stone (large and middle pins, nuts) The new bolts is in 10–15 m. Then move 3 m more to the second bolt. Then go to the right till the moving break 3 m , traverse to the left on the main crack and go along it by AID 5–7m, till the belay. Belay is under the huge cornice on two new bolts «Kong» (one of them – kovenox). Old bolts are left as a monument for the first ascenders and for contrast.
R3 – R4 : 25m,VI–VI-,85–95. From the belay go upwards by the corner 4m, then go through the ridge to the left to the bolt. Then go upwards to the big crack. Go along it 3–4 m to the bolt, then go under the cornice. The cornice pass on the right (there are 2 pins) and move to the left on the easy walls. By them move to the right and upwards to the ledge with bolts.
Here the route connects the route « Через пещеру (Through the cave)», where the belays were rebolted by V. Mogila and А . Jilin. Belay: pins, hexes, friends.
R4 – R5 : 45m,V,80. Go upwards by the corner 15m under the cornice, then traverse to the right 8m into the crack, go along it to the ledge.
R5 – R6 : 40m,V-,75. From the ledge go 5m to the right, then go upwards near the tree by the crack to the direction of the big pine-tree. The belay can be made there, or 5-7m after the bend on the bolt.
R6 – R7 : 45m,II,45-50. Move by easy rocks to the pine-tree under the wall-cornice.
R7 – R8 : 40m,III+,65. From the pine-tree go to the left and upwards by the walls, move to the bolt and pine-tree.
R8 – R9 : 45m,III,65. From the belay go upwards 15m, then move to the left and upwards to the tree.
R9 – R10 : 40m,IV,80. Go upwards by the corner, then go 3m along the ledge to the left and go upwards by the walls to the ridge. Go to the right along it to 2 bolts.