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Author: Poltavetc Eugene and Sipavin Valentin, Kharkov
"Sokolinuy" route
Crimea , гора Zamok. The route « Соколиный (Sokolinuy)», 6 А (route of YU. Lishaevа , 1985)
If the route wasn't visited for a long time, it becomes more difficult, and the rate of ascent reduces.
The route requires classical belay devices: nuts, friends, hexes, pins. No bird's beaks, sku hooks and other elements of «advanced AID aerobatics» are needed. Zamok, deion of the route «Соколиный (Sokolinuy)», 6 А
R0 – R1 : 10 m ,II,50 5m,IV,75 40m,VI,80-95,A2. From the ledge go to the left and upwards by easy inclined rocks (firstly 10m – II, then move 5m – IV) to the crack. Go upwards along the crack firstly by free climbing, then by AID to the bolt ( 25 meters ). Then go upwards 10m more to the belay. Belay is on 2 new bolts «Kong» plus spit. To block all the points a long loop (180 с m) is needed. Belay is hanging. R1 – R2 : 45m, VI, 90, A2. On this section try not to throw down stones. From the belay go upwards with AID (pins) 5m by the crack, then traverse 2m to the right crack. Go 5m upwards along it, traverse 3m to the left crack. Go along it firstly by free climbing, then by AID (pins) to the cave. In the cave there is a bolt. On the section there are old pins. Russian alpinist Maxim Kostrov, who sent « Соколиный (Sokolinuy)» in winter 2005 by free climbing , recommended to move all the time by the right crack. From the cave traverse to the right through the wall to the crack (in the beginning of the traverse in the crack there is a pin in the grass). Then go upwards along the crack by free climbing, sometimes AID. There are many moving stones. Last 3 m till the ledge are easier. Move along the ledge to the left to the big pine-tree. There a belay is. From this tree you can apseil to the cave and the previous belay.
Here the route connects the route « Через пещеру (Through the cave)», where the belays were rebolted by V. Mogila and А . Jilin. Belay: pins, hexes, friends. R4 – R5 : 45m,V,80. Go upwards by the corner 15m under the cornice, then traverse to the right 8m into the crack, go along it to the ledge.
R6 – R7 : 45m,II,45-50. Move by easy rocks to the pine-tree under the wall-cornice. R7 – R8 : 40m,III+,65. From the pine-tree go to the left and upwards by the walls, move to the bolt and pine-tree. R8 – R9 : 45m,III,65. From the belay go upwards 15m, then move to the left and upwards to the tree.
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