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Author: Alexander Lavrinenko, Odessa
Small Kilse "Three cornices" Yuri Lishaev’s route 6А, VI, A2, 220m
The route starts from the left part of the "mould", in 30- 40 meters to the left from " Копьё "(" Не m ецкого ")
R0-R1 Go upwards by the wall with sharp holds, 5- 7 meters to the bolt. From the bolt traverse to the right to the crack, climb 10m upwards, then go by the vertical slab with bolts А 1, or climb 10m. From the last bolt turn to the left, into the corner, formed by the patch and the wall (sky hook), by the corner go upwards and to the left, (small and middle nuts) 10m to the direction of bolts. Then go upwards, by the bolt, climb upwards, pass the small overhang, climb to the belay.
R1-R2 From the belay difficult traverse 5m to the right, then move 15m upwards by the interrupting crack, partially climb, partially AID (pins, nuts, and 2 bolts). Then go by the corner upwards and to the left, climb to the inclined ledge. Belay.
R2-R3 From the belay go along the ledge to the right, and 10m upwards by the corner under the overhang. Then go upwards along the overhanging corner by AID, there are 4 bolts, in the upper part there are nuts. 10m, then climb by the crack to the belay.
R3-R4 From the belay go upwards, under the cornice, traverse to the left 7 -10m, then via the overhang go upwards and to the right, under the 2-nd cornice. The cornice is passed by the crack in its left part( friends, middle and big stoppers.) Belay is in 5 meters after the cornice. 30m, 85°, VI, A2
R4-R5 10m difficult climbing upwards from the belay, via the overhang to the corner (nuts, friends.) Then go upwards along the corner, in 15-meters climb to the easy, but destroyed rocks.
R5-R6 Then go upwards by the destroyed corner, till the plateau.
Variation is rarely visited, though it isn't less interesting then the main route.
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