BY THE SECOND BUTTRESS OF THE WESTERN PART OF THE MASSIF (“ УХО ”), 4 Б

This is one of the most popular routes among the middle qualification alpinists.

Approach to the route begins from the upper road 50 m below the alpinist camps under the central part of Forossky Kant. Go upwards and to the right firstly by the path, then by easy rocks to the direction of the first buttress of the western part of the massif. (R0: 300 m, 30-45 0, б/к ).

On the section R1-R2 go upwards by the wall and ledge system, then move by the corner till the tree (R1-R2: 40 m, 700, III).

On the section R2-R4 firstly go upwards and to the left to the corner. Then move 70 m along it. Then go to the right wall of the corner and go to the terrace by the slabs (R2-R4: 80 m, 60-70 0, III+).

On the section R4-R5 go upwards and to the left on foot by the terrace 30 m to the “rusty ” mould.

On the section R5-R6 firstly go upwards and to the right 15 m, then traverse to the right 5 m by the vertical wall to the base of the corner(R4-R5: 30 m, 40-50 0, б/к R5-R6: 40 m, 75 0, IV).

On the last section firstly go upwards and to the left 15 m to the base of the chimney and then move 25 m upwards by the chimney to the plateau (R6- the plateau: 15 m, 75 0, III+ .25 m, 85 0, IV+ ).

The ascent takes 3 – 4 hours.

Length of the main part of the route is about 220 m.

BY THE LEFT EDGE OF THE CENTRAL BASTION (“ ТРИАНГУЛЯЦИЯ ”), 4 Б ( 35 m, V)

The route sections R1-R5 go along the wide corner, situated between the second buttress and the central bastion.

Firstly go upwards by the right side of the corner, then move by the abrupt slabs of its middle part (R1- R3: 70 m, 70 0, III+).

On the section R3 - R4 go upwards firstly by 15-meter abrupt wall, then move by the nail slab to the corner. Then go along it, getting over the small cornice (R3- R4: 35 m, 80 0)

On the section R4 - R5 firstly go 20m upwards, then go upwards and to the right by the buttress (R4-R5: 40 m, 70 0, IV+).

Further part of the route goes along the left edge of the central bastion. Go upwards and to the right by the middle grade rocks. It ends near the triangulation sign on the summit, well seen from below (R5- peak: 120 m, 50-60 0, II-III).

The ascent takes 3 – 4 hours.

Length of the main part of the route is 265 m.