Check out the previous story on the Mountain.RU: Piolet d'Or nominees. Russian version Piolet D'or. Piolet d'Or 2004 goes to Jannu North Face!

Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face, 8125m, Pakistan

Broad Peak, 8047m, Pakistan

Chomo Lonzo, 7540m, Tibet

Khumbu express, Cholatse, Tawoche, Ama Dablam, the Himalaya

Cerro Murallon, 2831m, Patagonia

Cerro Torre, 3128m, Patagonia

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Chomo Lonzo (7540m), Tibet. Expedition FFME 2005, France.

Two new routes:
The first - traverse ВС-North summit - Central summit.
Predicated category ЕD, 1500m.
The second - goulotte (ED-(1100m, M5 +, ice 4/5)
Two virgin summits. Alpine style. Some fixed ropes for traverse.
Participants:
Traverse: Patrick Wagnon (guide and scientist), Christian Trommsdorff (guide), Yannick Graziani (guide)
Goulotte: Stephane Benoist (guide), Glairon Rappaz (guide)
Date of arrival in BC: on April, 3
Expedition budget: 68000 EUR. Sponsored and private money (11000), appropriated money: by Federation (25000), by Ministry of sports (32000).

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Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face, 8125m, Pakistan

New route on the Central Pillar.
Alpine style. 6 days for ascent, two days - for descent via Messner's route without using fixed ropes at Messner's route.
Route extent: 4100m.
Participants: Steve House (35 years old, guide) and Vince Anderson (35 years old, guide, 2nd time in Himalayas), USA
Predicated category: WI4 M5, 5.9
Equipment weight: 16 kg per head
Rope: d8mm 50m and d5mm 50m.
Free climbing
Weather: Excellent weather during the all ascent, not so bad - by the end of descent.
Satellite phone in base camp. Deletion radio communication on the route.
Date of arrival in BC: on August, 1
Ascent: September, 1-8
Expedition budget: 5000$ + air tickets

Broad Peak, 8047m, Pakistan

South Face.
A new route up from 2500m. Alpine style.
Descent on the classical route. Ascent - 6 days, 2 days - descent.
Predicated category: 6b at 6600m, М6 at 7500m, snow and ice from 40 ° up to 75 °. А2
Participants: Denis Urubko (32 years old, military man, guide), Sergey Samoilov (47 years old, coach). Kazakhstan.
Date of arrival in BC: on July, 5
Ascent: on July, 18-27
Weather: worse than death on July, 5th and 7th, the other time - good enough.
Expedition budget: 10000 $.

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Khumbu express, Cholatse, Tawoche, Ama Dablam, the Himalaya

Solo - marathon done by Ueli Steck:
Cholatse North Face, 6440m
Route Extent: 1600m.
Predicated category: М6, ice 5, rocks 5.
Tawoche East Face, 6505m
Route Extent: 1500m.
Ama Dablam North East Face, via Humar/Furlan route (Comment: Piolet d’or 1996)
Participant: Ueli Steck (29 years old, Switzerland, rock-climber and climber: redpoint 8b +, Eiger North Face Solo climb, some expeditions to Alaska, Pumori West Face, Mount Dickey and other in the Himalaya…)

Details:
Cholatse North Face, 1600m. Start climbing on April, 14. A bivouac in an ice grotto at 6000m. Descent via Southern ridge and the second spending the night at Southern glacier. He could not find his gear left under the wall and returned in BC on April 16. He was exhausted very much and had then a week of rest. A meeting with Tomaz Humar gave him more energy and returned his confidence.
Tawoche East Face, 1500m. Ice 5, a few sites of М5. Ueli made attempt to climb via Jeff Lowe's route on the rocky bastion. It appeared too challenge for solo climb. Then a more classical variant was chosen. Ascent-descent for 4 hours and 30 minutes (one 50-meter rope, d5mm) on April, 24.
Humar/Furlan route on Ama Dablam. He had to bail his attempt at 5900m because of dangerous conditions on the North East Face of Ama Dablam.

Cerro Murallon, 2831m, Patagonia

North Face.
Participants: Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz.
Route Extent: 27 pitches.
The crux 7с +, is free climbed.
Predicated category: A2 and M4.
Attempts: Two. The first one was in 2004.
Fixed ropes: first 10 pitches.
Weather: Three-week expectation of weather in base camp
Three days on successful attempt.
Date: on November, 12-14.

Till 2003 the Wall was unclimbed. In 2003 Glowacz and Jasper "unpacked" it, having paved a route "The lost world". (Comment: Earlier, in 1984 Ferrari team (C. Alde, C. Ferrari and P. Vitali) climbed only the northeast ridge (route ED +)).
The mountain is reputed extremely devious.

Additional information:
"The idea to wait out bad weather taking cover in an ice cave in Patagonia - a bad idea, but there is no another way of ascent Cerro Murallon.
To wait for weather in Patagonia means to tick over, to live in conditions of the awful Patagonian storm. There is no windshield, from the West on the east you are not protected completely and accessible at all to all Patagonian horrors heading on Murallon glacier (Comment: the main direction of storms there).
If you want to climb a complex route you have to possess yourself and have enough time.
Our three-year experience shows that the only one possible shelter - a snow cave. To stay in a cave is not all sugar: constant dampness, temperature from 0°C up to + 2°C."

Cerro Torre, 3128m, Patagonia

New route.
Participants: Ermanno Salvaterra (50 years old), Alessandro Beltrami (24 years old), Rolando Garibotti (34 years old), all guides, Italy.
Face West, East and a side northern.
Alpine style.
Predicated category 6b + and A1
Three fixed ropes.
Ascent: 5 days in the middle of November, summit - on November 13.
Ascent and descent in one day.
Weight of gear: about 15 kg
Left equipment: No
Expedition budget: 2000 EUR

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