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ANATOLY N. Bukreev

 

The day of Birthday: 16 January, 1958

Profession: a climber, a guide, a consultant at ascents on high altitude summits above 7000-8000 meters, the photographer, the publicist about different ascents.

The climbing achievements:
All ascents, except for the special designated ones, are accomplished without using the oxygen equipment.

1997

July, 14, Mt. Gasherbrum II, 8035m. A single high-speed ascent. The time of ascent from ABC 5800 m up to the top was 9 hours and 37 minutes. The time of descent from the top up to ABC - 3 hours and 22 minutes. The common time of ascent and descent - 13 hours.

July, 7, Broud Peak, 8047m. A single high-speed ascent. The ascent from the base camp to the top took 36 hours. The first ascent on the mountain above 8000m in Karakoram in the season of 1997.

May, 26, Mt. Lhodse, 8505m, in the two-men team with Italian climber Simone Moro. The final summit push was from the camp III at the altitude of 7200m. They refused making the attempt of traverse of Lhodse-Everest because of the bad weather and not enough good state of the health.

April, 26, Mt. Everest, South Face, 8848m. A guide, the leader of the national combined Indonesia team. During the summit attempt he used oxygen in insignificant quantities: 1 liter/ a minute when he was upper than the Southern saddle.

1996

October, 9, Mt. Shisha Pangma, Northern Summit, 8008 m. A single ascent. The final summit push was from the altitude of 7000 m. that was the first ascent in the autumn of the season of 1996.

September, 25, Mt. Cho-Oyu, 8201m. A single ascent without any support. The ascent was accomplished within five days (including the acclimatization) from the date of arrival in the base camp. The final push was from the altitude of 7000 m.

May, 17, Mt. Lhodse, 8505m. A single high-speed ascent. From the base camp up to the summit - for 21 hour 16 minutes.

May, 10, Mt. Everest, South Face, 8848m, without oxygen, as the guide of the American expedition "Mountain madness".

1995

December, 8, Manaslu, 8156m. The third successful winter ascent on the top for all history.

June, 30, Abay peak, 4010m. The personal guide of the President of Republic Kazakhstan N.Nazarbaev.

October, 8, Mt. Dhaulagiri, 8176m. A single high-speed ascent. From the base camp up to top for - 17 hours and 15 minutes. The base camp - the top - the base camp - for 24 hours and 30 minutes.

May, 17, Mt. Everest, 8848m, North face. The guide, the leader of English international expedition "The Himalayan guides".

1994

May, 15, Mt. Makalu, 8476m. A high-speed ascent with the American climber Nile Baidleman. From the base camp up to the Main top - for 46 hours.

April, 29, Mt. Makalu, 8460m. The first topmost tower. The guide of the first climber from South America (Bolivia) Bernardo Guarachi reached the top of the mountain above 8000m.

1993

July, 30, Mt. K-2 (Chogori), 8611m. The German international expedition "Polar lights".

May, 14, Mt. McKinley, 6193m (Alaska). He was the guide accompanied the seventy-year old climber Jack Robins on the Mt. McKinley.

1991

October, 7, Mt. Everest, via the Southern saddle, 8848m. The first Russian-American expedition.

May, 10, Mt. Dhaulagiri, 8176m, West Face, a new route. The first Kazakhstan expedition to the Himalayas.

1990

August, Pobeda peak, 7493 m., the first high-speed solo ascent. From a glacier up to the top - for 36 hours.

August, peak of Khan Tengri, 7010 m. A high-speed single ascent.

May, McKinley, Western ridge, 6193 m., the first high-speed solo ascent for one day. From a glacier up to the top - for 10 hours and 30 minutes.

April, McKinley, via Kassin route, 6193. The guide of the American expedition "Imaginations of guides on crests of mountains". The first in a history joint ascent of guides with clients on this route.

February, Pobeda peak up to 7400 m. The first winter ascent.

1989

April 30 - on May, 2, Mt. Kanchenjunga. The traverse of four tops above 8000 m. The second Soviet Himalaya expedition. Oxygen was used upper 8000 m. (Under the order of the head of expedition all participants of this expedition went with using the oxygen equipment).

April, 15, Mt. Kanchenjunga, Middle Summit, 8489 m. A new route on central couloir from the south.

1988

The traverse of Pobeda peak from the Western top up to the peak of Military Topographers was done for the first time. He was accepted for the structure of the National combined soviet mountaineering team.

1987

Lenin peak, 7137m. The first high-speed ascent. From the base camp at 4200m up to the top - for 8 hours. From the top up to the base camp - for 6 hours. The total time of the ascent with descent - 14 hours.

1981-1993

Over thirty successful ascents via different routes on the mountains above 7000 m in Soviet Union as a member of the combined team of Republic Kazakhstan and the USSR.

1980

The peak of Communism, 7495m and Lenin peak, 7137m. - the first ascents on the mountains above 7000 m.

1974

The first experience of high-altitude ascents up to 5000 meters.

1970

The beginning of climbing ascents and trainings on rock-climbing in area of the Ural Mountains (1600 - 1800 m).


 

PROFESSIONAL WORK as an adviser, a trainer and a guide in ascents on the high altitude summits. During his work as a adviser, a coach and a guide in the ascents to the Everest the summit was first reached by Indonesian climbers under the direction of Anatoly Bukreev, the first climbers from Denmark, the first climber from Wales, the first Brazilian climbers, the first climber from Bolivia on eight-thousand top.

1997 He was an adviser, the main trainer and the leader of the First Indonesian National Military Expedition to Mt. Everest.

1996 He worked as a high-altitude guide of the expedition to Everest via the Southern saddle and took part in the American expedition "Mountain Madness", Seattle, Washington.

1995 A high-altitude guide of expedition to the Everest via the Northern Saddle. English international expedition "Himalayan Guides", Edinburgh, Scotland.

1994 A high-altitude guide, the leader of the ascents on Makalu and Cho-Ouy of the American expeditions "Condor Adventures", Denver, Colorado.

1993 A Guide of a seventy-year old climber on Mt. MacKinley via the classical route.

1990 A Guide on Mt. MacKinley via the route Kassin. "Fantasy Ridge Mountain Guides ", Telluride, Colorado.

1990-1997 A High-altitude guide in mountains of Tjan-Shan and Pamir.

1982-1997 The coach and the mountain instructor in the Central Sports Club of Army, Alma-Ata city. 1981-1993 The Trainer on ski races of a youthful combined team of Alma-Ata city of and the Alma-Ati area.

 

ACHIEVEMENTS, MERITS, AWARDS.

1997 For the first time in the history of mountaineering he did four ascents on the mountains above 8000m for 80 days. Last two ascents were accomplished for 7 days. A high-speed solo ascent with record time on a mountain above 8000m: on July, 14, Gasherbrum II, 8035 m. The time of ascent from the base camp ABC (5800.) up to the top was 9 hours and 37 minutes. The time of ascent and descent - 12 hours 59 minutes.

1996 For 12 months he committed the ascents on five above 8000-m mountains (from May, 17 1995 till May, 17 1996). Lhodse, 8505m. - a high-speed solo ascent with the record time 21 hours and 16 minutes from the base camp (5300 m.) up to the top.

1995 Dhaulagiri, 8176m. A high-speed solo ascent with the record time 17 hours and 15 minutes from the altitude of the base camp (4700 m.) up to the top. The time of ascent and descent - 25 hours.

1994 Makalu, 8476m, a high-speed ascent in the two-men team with the American climber Nile Baidleman with the record time from the base camp at 5300 m. up to the top for 46 hours.

1991 Dhaulagiri, 8176m - the best ascent in the Himalayas in the season. A new route on the Western Face.

1990 Mt. Elbrus, 5633m, the international competitions for the speed in ascent. The first place. Record time 1 hour and 40 minutes from the "Shelter 11" up to the top. Pobeda peak, 7439 m. - the first solo high-speed ascent. Peak of Khan Tengri, 7010 m. - the first high-speed solo ascent. Pobeda peak, the first winter ascent. He reached the altitude of 7400 m. A MacKinley, Western ridge, 6193 m. - the first solo ascent for one day. The record time of the ascent from the beginning of the route up to the top - 10 hours and 30 minutes.

1989 the First place in the competitions for speed in ascent on Mt. Elbrus. Traverse of four summits of Kanchenjunga - the best ascent in the Himalayas in the season. The rank the Master of Sports of the International Class of the USSR and a rank the Deserved Master of Sports of the USSR is given. He was awarded "For personal courage" by M. Gorbachev.

1987 the first high-speed ascent on Lenin peak, 7137m, with the record time of 8 hours from 4200m. up to the top, 14 hours - the total time of ascent and descent. The first place in the competitions on high-speed ascent: the ascent on Communism peak during the selection of candidates for the second Soviet expedition to the Himalayas on traverse of Kanchenjunga. The record time from 6600m. up to 7400m. was 1 hour and 27 minutes. The first place in the competitions on high-speed ascent: the ascent on Elbrus during the selection of candidates for the second Soviet expedition to the Himalayas on traverse of Kanchenjunga. The Record time from 4200m. up to 5200m. was 1 hour and 07 minutes.

 

PUBLICATIONS OF ARTICLES AND BOOKS.

1996: American Alpine Journal " The ways, which we choose ".

1997: American Alpine Journal " Oxygen illusion ".

1997: St. Martins Press NYNY in the co-authorship with Weston De Walt the book "Ascent".

 

PUBLICATIONS OF PHOTOS.

Magazines: Life Magazine, Men' s Journal, Outside Magazine, American Alpine Journal.

EDUCATION.

1979 - The Chelyabinsk State Pedagogical Institute. The diploma of the teacher of physics.

In parallel the diploma of the trainer - teacher on ski races.

1975 - the diploma of secondary education.

 

The film about Anatoly Bukreev " Unsubdued Top " was shot by Company Mart Production.

 

1999-2007 Mountain.RU
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