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Authors: Konstantin Savelyev, SPb, Eugeny Krivosheytsev, Odessa
Translated by
Anna Samodelko, Anna Piunova, www.Mountain.RU

 

Climbing In The Crimea

The Crimea is taken on properly at last. New short and multipitches routes are being bolted with utmost activity.
For example, there is a new perfect route bolted on Parus.
And you can use only quickdraws and your skill to climb some new routes in Foros.
There are some new routes bolted in Uarch Kaja.
The collection of the routes in Sarich is added constantly. Itís one of the most popular climbing 6a-6b routeí zone.

We are glad to say that Red Stoneí place is revived as an important center of climbing in the Crimea. For a long time it wasnít a popular place for climbing any more especially comparing to the powerful rivals such Nikita and Sarich, because there were such a few routes and all of them had old protected bolts and run outs. And it was really terrible to use the rusty chain when you should low down.

Nowadays the old bolts and chains have been replaced and new bolts have added to decrease the intervals. So that to climb here is safer.

Alexander Cheprastov and Aleksey Chertov were the first to become reviving Red Stone in 2001, 2002, 2003 years.

Alexander bolted:
Lastochka (Swallow), 8a,
Tsunami, 8a,
Telekines, 7b,
New route in this year, 7b- to the right side from Double Zhim or Kopchenyi.

Aleksej Chertov bolted:
Vkus Meada (Honey Taste), 7c,
Kenigsberg, 7c+,
Vremja Ch, (Time Ch) 8a,
Flatter, 8a,
Parallelnyi Mir (Parallel World), 8b/8b+,
New route, 8b+/8c.

In July, 2003, Mike Babich and Andrej Vedenmeer bolted 12 new routes 5c-7b categories for Friendship Cup Competition.

They bolted also new routes 5c, 5c, 6c+, 6a, 7a+, 7b, 6b+ categories on the rock over the lake to the right side from Red Stone named Utjug (Iron). To the left side from Chertopolokh (Thistle), 8b, they bolted new still nameless routes 6c+/7a, 6c, 7a+/7b, 6b+, 7b, 6c+/7a waited for their climbers.

The Krasnoyarians Oleg Morozkin and Pavel Demin bolted:
Aleis, 8a/8a+ - North face of Red Stone- a good technical route with a problem in the upper part,
Mastertest, 8a+, to the right of the Senokos (Haymaking Time), the short route with the bouldering move. The note: you canít use the ridge on the right from the 5th quickdraw. It belongs to the next route.
Demon, 7c-this route is on the left side from Sputnik (Satellite), 7c. It has three bouldering moves on the upper part.
Salo, 6b- it combines with Samolet (Plane), 6a+
Barkas (Launch), 6c/7a- itís very difficult and technical route to climb on sight.
Oba-Na, 8a- itís an old route over the ridge to the left side from Demon and Sputnik. It has a hard bouldering move near the last quickdraw right before the chain.
Mandrazh, 8b/8b+.

If there were only 28 routes just a year ago, but lately the 50 new routes have been added. And now Red Stone became a leader at the numbers of bolted routes and it has more routes of 8-category then Nikita.

Nikita- 10 routes of category from 8a till 8c+,

Red Stone- 12 routes of category from 8a till 8b+ and the new one- 8b/8c.

If you want to visit Red Stone you should take 60m-rope as some routes above 25m long are planned to bolt soon.

One bad thing is that the place became too messy. And we ask all climbers to keep this place in cleanness.

Dear friends-climbers! Not Red Stone to be dirty! Donít spoil that lovely place! Come to Red Stone and enjoy your climbing!

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