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Translated by Anna Samodelko, Anna Piunova, www.Mountain.RU
Photos from http://www.stolby.ru/news/27082003/2.asp

 

North Face of Peak Pobeda. New Route

During the 8th 20th of August the Krasnoyarian alpinists climbed Pik Pobeda, 7439m within the Russian High-altitude Climbing Championship.

The members of the team were: the Krasnoyarians Vladimir Arkhipov, Eugeny Bakaleynikov, Petr Kuznetsov, Oleg Khvostenko, Sergey Cherezov, Alexander Mikhalitsin and the Novosiberians Gleb Sokolov, Sergey Filatov.

The Championship is conducted from the 1st of April to the 30th of September. And the results will be summed up by the referee's college in November according the reports given by the participants. There are 13 participant-teams. Some of them have made their climbing.

Peak Pobeda is one of the most difficult and dangerous mountains in our planet. Its the highest mountain in Tjan-Shan situated next to the borderline in the Kokshaa Tau range between China and Kyrgyzstan.

The Krasnoyarians climbed Pik Pobeda in 1972, 1981, 1989, 1991. But the new route (the North Face via Armenia Peak) they have climbed for the first time.

The overfall of the altitude was 3000m and -1500m in walls part of the route with slope grade up to 80° . The hardest and steepest North Face was climbed in 8 days. And then it was 4-days climbing the summit ridge 7000m long. The team spent one night on the summit t altitude 7439m. And everybody was OK.

The second purpose of that climbing was to prepare the alpinists for the Expedition in Himalayas next year where the combined Russian team is going to climb new route over Everest.

The first impression after arriving home:

Petr Kuznetsov: We didnt think that everything would be so hard.

Vladimir Arkhipov: The good weather helped us to reach the summit.

Oleg Khvostenko: I really enjoyed it. We fixed near 50 ropes up to Armenia and then 10 ones more. The Wall was about 2000m. The first 10 pitches on the Wall were the most difficult. The overhang ice fall took about 3 fixed ropes. Then it was the steep rocks with accumulated ice. It became less terrible farther. The range was narrow sometimes as a bottleneck. We came out on it at 17.08.03 and at 18.08.03 we spent a night on the summit practically. The weather began worsen and the strong wind started to blow, but we finally did that! We descended by Vazha Pshavel route."

The cool guys there leave in Krasnoyarsk.

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