Translated by Anna Samodelko,
Anna Piunova, www.Mountain.RU
Photos from http://www.stolby.ru/news/27082003/2.asp
North Face of Peak
Pobeda. New Route
During the 8th
– 20th of August the Krasnoyarian alpinists climbed
Pik Pobeda, 7439m within the Russian High-altitude Climbing Championship.
The members of the team
were: the Krasnoyarians Vladimir Arkhipov, Eugeny Bakaleynikov,
Petr Kuznetsov, Oleg Khvostenko, Sergey Cherezov, Alexander Mikhalitsin
and the Novosiberians Gleb Sokolov, Sergey Filatov.
The Championship is conducted
from the 1st of April to the 30th of September.
And the results will be summed up by the referee's college in
November according the reports given by the participants. There
are 13 participant-teams. Some of them have made their climbing.
Peak Pobeda is one of
the most difficult and dangerous mountains in our planet. It’s
the highest mountain in Tjan-Shan situated next to the borderline
in the Kokshaa Tau range between China and Kyrgyzstan.
The Krasnoyarians climbed Pik
Pobeda in 1972, 1981, 1989, 1991. But the new route (the North
Face via Armenia Peak) they have climbed for the first time.
The overfall of the altitude
was 3000m and -1500m in wall’s part of the route with slope grade
up to 80° . The hardest and steepest North Face was climbed
in 8 days. And then it was 4-days climbing the summit ridge 7000m
long. The team spent one night on the summit àt altitude 7439m.
And everybody was OK.
The second purpose of that
climbing was to prepare the alpinists for the Expedition in Himalayas
next year where the combined Russian team is going to climb new
route over Everest.
The first impression after
Petr Kuznetsov: “We didn’t
think that everything would be so hard”.
Vladimir Arkhipov: “The
good weather helped us to reach the summit”.
Oleg Khvostenko: “I really
enjoyed it. We fixed near 50 ropes up to Armenia and then 10 ones
more. The Wall was about 2000m. The first 10 pitches on the Wall
were the most difficult. The overhang ice fall took about 3 fixed
ropes. Then it was the steep rocks with accumulated ice. It became
less terrible farther. The range was narrow sometimes as a bottleneck.
We came out on it at 17.08.03 and at 18.08.03 we spent a night
on the summit practically. The weather began worsen and the strong
wind started to blow, but we finally did that! We descended by
Vazha Pshavel route."
The cool guys there leave in