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Interviewed by Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU
DENIS URUBKO
M.RU: How many years have you climbed together with Simone Moro? What characters are you impressed in each other most of all? In your opinion is there the such common notion as “ideal climbing partner” in our reality? D.U.: Of course we work not only together and with other climbers, other teams. But as for climbing on and off with Simone over the last four years I enjoy every project as a real adventure and his optimism most of all. His happiness and mood affects all those around him and rescues the complex moments of our expeditions.
I consider his technical training and endurance as perfect therefore there are no doubts in successful ascent of any part of routes. I’ve got a pessimistic opinion of the notion “ideal climbing partner.” I believe there may be no such thing as it at all. People should climb with whom they prefer to climb in the mountains according of the certain reasons. The vital aspects of the climb itself are up to each individual. M.RU: In your opinion is there the such thing
as “chances” in the mountains? Could people avoid or forecast them? D.U.: There is no such thing as “chances” in the mountains. Everything is analyzable logically and explicable. And methods so can be manufactured, in order to avoid unpleasant "chances." Of course you can’t always forecast the details, but in principle, general tendencies are outlined everywhere. M.RU: What have changed in mountain climbing for the last decade? D.U.: World mountain climbing doesn’t tend toward the sport development. Drawing a rude analogy you shouldn’t strive for the best results in running 100m. The main thing to run it and to manage in a fascinating manner to tell about the feelings and experiences that associates could estimate your private world, and its harmony, and get stoned of a resonance of their desires (unused) with your ones (embodied). In Kazakhstan mountaineering as in the Russian one, we can observe a displacement of accent from values of sports character on public-patriotic. Nowadays, a few people like just going for sports. All the others strive to earn money by this and it is simple to be occupied by sport interestingly to few. People attempts by this, and to be generally recognized. M.RU: What do you like or don’t you like in the present-day mountaineering?
D.U.: I consider the unnecessary "fight for the spectator" is not correct. Because in that way an advertising and presenting of the materials about an expedition means more and take more forces and time then strictly speaking the ascent in itself. And I don’t like when self-confidence inexperienced climbers consider that the main thing in mountaineering is to buy the high-quality gear and the clothes and to pay money to guide etc. I consider incorrect the sport rise increasing too rapid without adequate experience, only according to the classification- two ascents of 1B, two-2A, two- 2B etc. And you see the man will get soon the formal possibility to climb (for example) the North Face of Khan -Tengri via 6B route. It would be good if all keep this way. But you sometimes you can encounter by entirely hat-throwing approach in climbing. After climbing Kilimanjaro a man has considered to climb Everest. And the commercial expeditions are the bright examples of that. It seems to me as a good tendency to value one’s own life more than results on the mountain. I consider that there should be an individual approach to the ascending. The good thing is to pay for an expedition of a team of two or three climbers and to work together in the similar manner on a route the successful completion of which will be a good sport result. And I find a pleasant thing the improvement of comfort and mountain life in the base camps and in the high-altitude ones.
M.RU: What styles of mountain climbing do you prefer? D.U.: I consider ultimately that high-altitude technical ascents are the “king of mountain climbing” - the walls above 7,000m in the Himalayas and Karakorum, especially when completed alpine style My own personal dream is to make such ascents in small groups as Valiev and Moiseev climbed on Dhaulagiri and Kuchuchka and Petrovsky climbed K2. But this thus far only dream. M.RU: How do you consider what is more: the general or differences between the western and the east approaches to the mountaineering D.U.: The mountaineering is mountaineering. Both of these approaches have more general characteristics in common then differences. It would appear there is the displacement to the western rails in the CIS. In general, I don’t like speaking on this theme because, as a rule, it is rolled on “ and you have something bad here and there…”, or “ and here we have something… ”. M.RU: In your opinion which ascents do you consider as the most complex in your personal plan? D.U.: My first Kodar solo-ascent. Till now I do not know how I could to stay safe and sound. After the avalanche accident on a slope of peak Abay I descended with broken legs and with despair of conscience in my soul. I was leaded from impudence and irresponsibility. The solo-ascent on Mayakovskiy Peak from the West Face was a critical moment in a way because of the contradiction to the matured confidence and to the readiness to work at such high level and the impossibility to apply that in the right way. The North Face of Khan-Tengri - the ascent, when after 5 days climbing we were ready to turn back. The winter attempt on K2, when we had to work hard wear and tear with the load of responsibility, psychological isolation and with strong cold weather. Generally, all moments in the mountains are heaviest, however, as in the usual life, occur in the consciousness in the overcoming themselves and in the interrelations between people. Frost, wind, high altitude are all only the specific characters of this sport, some kind of attributes, only the background for the knowing a man and his friends. All "extreme" things will change or be forgotten but the experience and feelings stay invariable. M.RU: What your opinion of high-speed ascents, the special features and training for them? D.U.: The main feature of high-speed ascents is the ability of making ascent with the limit of possibility keeping your strengths. When an each step seems as the last one, the each route site seems as a 100m distance. And in your soul you understand as before the battle that you should rely only on yourself. Sometimes it is very simple to grasp that like a Samurai. And everything becomes in the right places but sometimes you have to work hard on it. Who knows! The state of route is very important thing. For example, if the snow is deep during the simple ascending you just will work it. And it doesn’t matter you will spend an hour or two hours on it. But if you make a speed-ascent you have to jerk and make this route’s site for a half an hour. The confrontation competitions add many tactical moments: how to outstrip rivals on fixed ropes, how to rest "on the tail" of going ahead, where to hide behind the back and where to lead a game. We nave no time to discuss all of these things. It is the theme for another discussion. And my opinion about trainings means that you should force yourselves to work hard during the trainings, run up into the mountain and give this way of life all you can. M.RU: What about the ascents in winter, their specialities, trainings, the main difficulties? D.U.: Well, difficulties… They seem to me like the similar to the ascents in summer increased in the cold. And the readiness for ascents in winter occurs different. Sometimes a mountain climber can be prepared on 100% to make all he can in three or four days or sometimes it is necessary to extend this “pleasure” for a month. Our expedition to K2 in winter was complex. We had to work hard up the breaking point and then descended to the Base Camp and could restore our forces. We had to force ourselves to do the sites of the routes up to the end with all trifles. Many Poles suffered that fact, that they made possible for them not to complete the work. M.RU: Is there the ethics of mountaineering? In your opinion what the rules of climbing? D.U.: What is the person at home such he also remains in mountains- how do these ethics differ? You ought to make the others those things, which you want to get from them. And if you are bullshit in life people will say the same about you in mountains. M.RU: The question of using of the oxygen at high-altitude. D.U.: There isn’t enough oxygen at high altitude. Ha-ha J If you ask about the supplementary oxygen I ultimately claim that I refuse to use it at all and the others I can say the same. My opinion is if you are a sportsman do the sport but not tourism. We should use the oxygen to rescue of somebody’s life when the other means do not help. Often people say that the oxygen in climbing is the means of technical progress as crampons, ice-axes, and new boots. But I think all above-mentioned concern the modification of nature gifts for the people. We use the crampons and ice-axes instead of the claws, boots and clothing add our hair and fatty integuments, and we use a tent instead of a cave or a burrow. But to use the oxygen means to change the nature. And it’s a big difference. I can give another example. Can you dive to 200 meter under a sea without using an aqualung? And nobody can do it. To dive with and without an aqualung are THE ABSOLUTELY different kinds of sports. And it seems as a paradox that to climb with and without oxygen are the kinds of mountaineering with a little difference between. M.RU: What would you recommend to your followers? Trainings (frequency, duration, regularity and the nature and speciality of trainings). Regime - sleep, nourishment. What place in your trainings does take the rock climbing? What category of the routes do you usually climb on free-style? D.U.: It is too difficult to me to take such responsibility on myself. I consider that the sport of high achievements mutilates any ones. And in mountaineering you risk your life. Is it a real price for it? You should be engaged in mountaineering up to the definite limit. It would to be for your pleasure. And my trainings, its methods and specialities are the separate theme for another discussion. The rock climbing is a very important part of the skill of any mountain climber. The speeds of moving on a route and personal safety depend on it directly. You must train constantly especially if you want to dedicate a season to the technical ascents. In this way I like the Western school of rock climbing for its maximum approximating to the mountain climbing, working with ropes when you are going ahead on the multi-pitches route. But as it often appears the climber has top roped kilometres of rock routes and then he stand under the real route in fear and trembling. I don’t like the artificial walls for climbing and consider them useful for gymnastics practically without the any work of head. Any way the rocks are somehow closer to me. I don’t climb very well. And I want to climb better. I’ve flashed the maximum 6C+ and I’ve top roped more difficult routes, but… My trainings O my god, I have tried begin describing it for four times. And nothing has appeared yet. I don’t have a basic idea in my training process. Well, probably, I have it but I cannot issue it for myself. Therefore I will just simply tell, how I usually train, and I race.
It is a usual supporting process: Monday – the day off. I like to have a rest. Tuesday – the evening training from 6 p.m. till 8 p.m. (run up on the Kok-Tube* 1-2 approaches, general limbering-up in a bodybuilding gym, and approaches on a circle – pullings up, knee-bends, press, working on muscles of hands, weighing a bar, etc.) Wednesday – rock climbing (irregularly, sometimes I spend this day doing everyday affairs). Rock climbing (top rope during 20min) simply on volume making two-three approaches on complexity. Thursday – the same training, as on Tuesday. Friday – I have again a rest, sometimes I add something: either rock climbing, or running up on the Kok-Tube. Saturday – trekking upward in Tuyuksy. Ascending the routes from 1B up to 4B categories. Or having a banal rest. Sunday - Ascending the routes from 1B up to 4B categories.
The last two days I can replace an ascent on a route with a high-speed ascent up to the Amangeldy peak (3999 m, difference of the altitudes 1600m, the distance about 7 km, a stony track). It is necessary to note that during a preparation for concrete expedition I raise the intensity of trainings. In that case I climb more adding climbing on the rock placed near the Ili-river for periods of 4-7 days, or making speed ascents up to the Amangeldy peak 2-3 times a week (sometimes from Medeo, 1600m, difference of the altitude 2400m, the distance about 13 km, first on asphalt road, then on a track). But the trainings on Tuesday and Thursday stay the same, only more intensively. Usually I have trainings not up to a limit. I save my forces a little, trying not to work up to the end. But sometimes I train trying to work like a navvy. If I have not reached a limit I am tormented by dissatisfaction, and in the following training I work more strongly. But the trainings like this are only test Usually; I have one such training on five-six standard ones. I like Rock climbing trainings. I am afraid of functional ones. Though when I force myself I fill myself easier than if I passed training. Well, what else? I eat and drink everything I want. I do not smoke. I don’t have the daily routine. I do not run or ski, do not ride on a bicycle or play football, and do not like artificial gyms. M.RU: In your opinion what is the connection between training and results? D.U.: If you’re not occupied with the sport, training is not necessary, but big results require training. You should work hard.
M.RU: Has the "Soviet" approach to climbing been the key to the successful ascents of the Kazakhstan command?
D.U.: Yes, certainly, and in the greater degree this system guarantees stability and evenness of sport perfection. By the way, it introduces also the greater element of safe ascents. M.RU: The high experienced climbers have the coach in mountaineering is quite enough a phenomenon. The own Ilyinsky is necessary for each advanced crew or it is an individual unique case? D.U.: That case is really unique, and working, perhaps, only at us. Almaty is a city with a very favourable geographical arrangement for all-the-year-round employment by mountaineering. There are the trainers in other cities, but so fruitful work on education of high-altitude climbers is observed only in command leaded by Ilyinsky. And the matter here, certainly, is in our postSoviet conditions of universal poverty, when people for the sake of participation in the expedition to the Himalayas can allow a rigid authoritative management above themselves. M.RU: Inhabitants of mountain areas, as a rule, do not go to mountains. Citizens of megapolis as lunatics strain in mountains. Whether is it so and why? D.U.: I don’t think so. Kashirov, Khergiani, Tencing, Messner and others - all of them were born and grew up in the mountains. But the quantity of citizens of megapolises is much more. And all can see them. Because it is easier to them to write to newspapers and in the Internet. No community is present. Who wants to go to the mountains - he does. Am I right? Sponsors:
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