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Ak-Su peak, 5355m,
North Face.
Peak Ak-Su Northern is situated
in Pamiro-Alai mountain range in northern spurs of the Turkestan
ridge near to a place of merge of gorges Kara-Su and Ak-Su.
Its northern slopes look at the above-mentioned gorges. The maximum
point of the area - peak Ak-Su Main, 5500m closes Ak-Su gorge and
determines a microclimate in the gorge . Its strong congelation
supplies the having glacier Ak-Su. There is located the whole system
of tops in this area with the altitudes from 4000 up to 5300m, which
till the end 80th years were not climbed. In the second half of
80 years the teams of climbers from Odessa, Rostov, Saint Petersburg
paved the first routes graded the maximum categories of complexity
on tops Ak-Su, Petrogradets, Iskander, Alexander Block peak and
others.
In the end of the 80th years
the area became one of the most popular in climbing in many
respects due to the unique geological structure: the presence of
the tops with vertical monolithic walls extended from 500 up to
1000 m and more. The internal Championships of the USSR in rocky
and technical classes were repeatedly organized here and many prize-winning
places of the correspondence Championships were received for the
ascents via a number of routes there. Some routes of 6-category
go on Northern face of Ak-Su and climbed by teams leaded by Troschinenko,
Popov, Chaplinsky, Moshnikov etc. there is one from not done problem
sites still left unclimbed there: a corridor about 100 in width
located between the routes of Moshnikov and Chaplinsky.
The gangway to the place of
spending night under Northern wall of Ak-Su from the base camp at
the river Ak-Su takes approximately 2 hours.
The Main Summits Of The Area
Ak-Su peak, 5355m, first ascent in 1982
Alexander Block peak, 5239m
Iskander, 5120m
Petrogradets, 5163m
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Ak-Su
peak, 5355m
Articles and news:
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Krasnoyarsk
route on Ak-Su (N) 5217m
6B, VI, A4, 1600m, Winter, 2004
 (5.04.2004)
new!
"...as soon as the team blasted, heavy snowfall began
and continued for 11 days frequently accompanied by very strong
winds. The temperature did not fall below negative 25, basically
it was about negative15C, a wind sometimes reached 30ì/s.
Despite of bad weather conditions during the ascent, the team
only one day did not work on the route, having considered
that day as potentially microavalanches dangerous. As to our
climbing technique we basically used fifi hooks, anchor hooks
for belay stations..."
Author:
Anton Pugovkin, Krasnoyarsk
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Ak-Su.
First Ever Winter New Route. The Leader's impressions
 (3.03.2004)
"...That day Andrey made one pitch and looked like a
snowball in glasses. As the result we hang up the portaledge
at the zone of 13-th pitch. A visibility sometimes was no
more a meter, The real "White River" flew on the Wall. In
the same evening all of us descended running away to the base
camp. The bad weather continued a day more and after that
we could see Ak-Su in all its magnificence, decorated with
fresh snow..."
Author:
Anton Pugovkin, Krasnoyarsk
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Ak
Su, 5350ì. Winter attempt
 (27.01.2004)
On January, 14, Russian-Kyrgystan team from Ekaterinburg-Bishkek:
Eugeny Novoseltsev, Sergey Kofanov, Nikolay Gutnik and Vitaly
Akimov will leave Bishek for Ak Su winter attempt via Chaplinsky
route and maybe in the upper part via Chabaline-route.
On January, 20, another Russian team from Krasnoyarsk are
going to Ak Su as well. The team are going to pave the own
“ Krasnoyarsk ” route on Mt. Aksu, North Face
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Ak-Su
- the White River
 (16.01.2004)
"...In
the end of the 80th years the area became one of the most
popular in climbing in many respects due to the unique geological
structure: the presence of the tops with vertical monolithic
walls extended from 500 up to 1000 m and more..."
Author: Pavel Shabalin
Photo:Pavel Shabalin, Alexandre Ruchkin, Viktor Ostanin
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