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Ak-Su peak, 5355m, North Face.

Peak Ak-Su Northern is situated in Pamiro-Alai mountain range in northern spurs of the Turkestan ridge near to a place of merge of gorges Kara-Su and Ak-Su. Its northern slopes look at the above-mentioned gorges. The maximum point of the area - peak Ak-Su Main, 5500m closes Ak-Su gorge and determines a microclimate in the gorge . Its strong congelation supplies the having glacier Ak-Su. There is located the whole system of tops in this area with the altitudes from 4000 up to 5300m, which till the end 80th years were not climbed. In the second half of 80 years the teams of climbers from Odessa, Rostov, Saint Petersburg paved the first routes graded the maximum categories of complexity on tops Ak-Su, Petrogradets, Iskander, Alexander Block peak and others.

In the end of the 80th years the area became one of the most popular in climbing in many respects due to the unique geological structure: the presence of the tops with vertical monolithic walls extended from 500 up to 1000 m and more. The internal Championships of the USSR in rocky and technical classes were repeatedly organized here and many prize-winning places of the correspondence Championships were received for the ascents via a number of routes there. Some routes of 6-category go on Northern face of Ak-Su and climbed by teams leaded by Troschinenko, Popov, Chaplinsky, Moshnikov etc. there is one from not done problem sites still left unclimbed there: a corridor about 100 in width located between the routes of Moshnikov and Chaplinsky.

The gangway to the place of spending night under Northern wall of Ak-Su from the base camp at the river Ak-Su takes approximately 2 hours.

The Main Summits Of The Area
Ak-Su peak, 5355m, first ascent in 1982
Alexander Block peak, 5239m
Iskander, 5120m
Petrogradets, 5163m

 

Ak-Su peak, 5355m

Articles and news:

Krasnoyarsk route on Ak-Su (N) 5217m
6B, VI, A4, 1600m, Winter, 2004
(5.04.2004) new!
"...as soon as the team blasted, heavy snowfall began and continued for 11 days frequently accompanied by very strong winds. The temperature did not fall below negative 25, basically it was about negative15C, a wind sometimes reached 30/s. Despite of bad weather conditions during the ascent, the team only one day did not work on the route, having considered that day as potentially microavalanches dangerous. As to our climbing technique we basically used fifi hooks, anchor hooks for belay stations..."

Author: Anton Pugovkin, Krasnoyarsk

Ak-Su. First Ever Winter New Route. The Leader's impressions
(3.03.2004)
"...That day Andrey made one pitch and looked like a snowball in glasses. As the result we hang up the portaledge at the zone of 13-th pitch. A visibility sometimes was no more a meter, The real "White River" flew on the Wall. In the same evening all of us descended running away to the base camp. The bad weather continued a day more and after that we could see Ak-Su in all its magnificence, decorated with fresh snow..."

Author: Anton Pugovkin, Krasnoyarsk

Ak Su, 5350. Winter attempt
(27.01.2004)
On January, 14, Russian-Kyrgystan team from Ekaterinburg-Bishkek: Eugeny Novoseltsev, Sergey Kofanov, Nikolay Gutnik and Vitaly Akimov will leave Bishek for Ak Su winter attempt via Chaplinsky route and maybe in the upper part via Chabaline-route.
On January, 20, another Russian team from Krasnoyarsk are going to Ak Su as well. The team are going to pave the own Krasnoyarsk route on Mt. Aksu, North Face

Ak-Su - the White River
(16.01.2004)
"...In the end of the 80th years the area became one of the most popular in climbing in many respects due to the unique geological structure: the presence of the tops with vertical monolithic walls extended from 500 up to 1000 m and more..."

Author: Pavel Shabalin
Photo:Pavel Shabalin, Alexandre Ruchkin, Viktor Ostanin

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