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Crimea. Results. Alexey Tselishchev & C

Photo Alexey Tselishchev, Dmitry Evseyev, Konstantin Saveliev

OK! I begin my report! 10_9_8_7_6_5_4_3_2_1_0 … Let's go!

Moscow - Voronezh - the South Sea Coast of the Crimea. 8.04-15.05.2004.

We have got a wonderful trip! And we've got a glorious record both at rest and climbing! Have begun climbing first in Uarch-Kaya we found out that it was a mistake. After long winter it would be better if we had limbered up somewhere in Nikita or Red Stone. Kostya and I arrived to Simferopol on April, 17 where were met by kind and hospitable friends, on behalf of family of a legendary Fantik (Candy wrapper). We stayed for three days in Simferopol getting to in Uarch-Kaya and Kizil-Kobu by Dmitry Evseyev's car, and then together with arrived Mike Pekarev and Julia Abramchuk we moved to Uarch-Kaya.

Weather hold warm, but windy (that, however, not prevented my nose to get a nasty sunburn at once). A lot new (for me) lines appeared there. But unfortunately, I did not manage to în-sight any of them: I was close to send "Oi, Tlya!" ("Oops! Louse!"), 7ñ, but did not manage to make the last move; the same things appeared at "Jack POT", which seemed as 7ñ though was graded as 8à in a guidebook: I did not manage again to climb the last three meters. All the lines we sent first go, except "Godzilla", that Kostya and I sent second go.

In view of the worthless form we were not engaged in sending the other 8-category lines, though we would long to try "Zavtrak dlya chempionov (Breakfast for champions)". Well, it can wait till the autumn. Kostya with Julia sent "Skazka Stranstviy (Fairy tale of Wanderings)" at Kant (Edging) and we placed a full stop on our Uarch-Kaya visiting....

On April, 24 we moved to Nikita for a week and climbed much more effective there. Mike redpointed "Eskadron", 8à, and Kostya and I too (I hard-core redpointed first go). Having climbed the crux Mike nearly sent a variant of "Rychagi (Levers)", 8-graded: he fell right from the top part.

Julia and I were not successful this line too. But Konstantin overpowered it. Kostya and I sent "Breeze", 8à + (2-nd go). However how Mike and Julia hard tried to send it they could not do that. I made about 8-10 attempts to send "Skif (Scythian)" with new bolts, but I was not lucky in climbing it. I sent "Fantastic", 8à +, 2nd go, and Kostya fell making the last two moves on it. Plus, we sent "Mudry (Wise)", 7ñ +, both 1-st go (and Kostya placed quickdraws by himself), and then I sent " A Shevall ", 7c + - this line is a great favorite of mine. And the guys sent "Rychagi (Levers)".

All the other time except when we were climbing we rushed about Yalta: to the market or to have a meal in Asian café, to an Internet-club or to walk on the quay to have a drink of dry wine... The sea was cool, somewhere 10-12C, and I went for a swim only once.

About on May, 1st we got under Red Stone. I 've never seen such a great invasion of rock-climbers even in the summer! And the amount of rock-climbers increased every day... Some people (including Medun) added to our company, and it became absolutely cheerful. In such cheerful company climbing began gradually to be put on the back burner. It seemed the weariness gave notice. I climbed: 6/day of rest / 9.

Julia sent "Flatter", 8à, and "Chertopolokh (Thistle)", 8b. Kostya and I sent the old lines of 7-graded. It seems to me that Kostya and Mike sent "Vremya Tch (Rush hours)", 8à (or it might have been "Flatter"? I do not really remember that). I was trying a little "Chertopolokh (Thistle)" finally, but sent only "Flatter", 8à, and "Mastertest", 8à + (or 8à?).

Weather began to more and more spoil and we began spending more and more time in Yalta since May, 4, plus, we were "knocked out" by seeing-off Medun (“Yesterday Medun had us to drink- we have a hangover and are not in the pink")

There were only two sunny days from May, 9 till May, 14. Well, on May 14 we climbed Red Stone a little in the rain...

But Jack was slogging and slogging away...

Photos

Julia Abramchuk
Julia Abramchuk, "Rychagi (Levers)" 8à, Nikita
Mike Pekarev	Olga Yakovleva	Max Petrenko
		Medun and Olga Yakovleva
Julia Abramchuk, "Breeze", 8à+, Nikita
		Bouldering. Uarch-Kaya
Olga Bibik, "Mir (Peace)"
Jeck Ovchinnikov
Konstantin Saveliev, Uarch-Kaya
		Alexey Tselishchev, Dmitry Evseyev
Alexey Tselishchev, Uarch-Kaya
		Verchik