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The Crimea. Results. Eugeny Krivosheitsev. "A fairy tale of wanderings"

At last, I managed to escape from Odessa and to get to Crimea but only for three days as Ukraine Championship in Kiev is just round the corner and it is too dangerous to me to give up the artificial climbing wall. For these three days I sent a lot of routes of average complexity (all of them are is no higher 8à), about 10-11 routes a day, as my finger skin allowed. The fingers after winter ice climbing season are still weak; I need for more time for completely recovering. Andrey Vedenmeer and I sent a new route "Kadavr" (Red Stone), preliminary appreciated as 7ñ +/8à. "Kadavr" is difficult to on sight because of rather heavy bouldering in the beginning of the route. We connected the top part of the route to the route "Jump", 7ñ + (I on sighted and assessed last it year). I was struck by three huge chopped holds that we could see on one of cruxes of the route! This is the beastliness - to spoil the unique rocks in such way! This not an artificial climbing wall!!! Now this route is estimated, maximum as 7b/b +!!! Summary "Kadavr" with continuation on "Jump" turned out 7ñ +, but it could be 8à/8à +!

If the route can be sent without any additional things as the pasted stones and chopped holds, DEAR VANDALS, PLEASE, DO NOT DESTROY a unique natural rocky surface!!!

 

For the second day of my climbing in the Crimea Andrey Vedenmeer and I decided to send a new route "Skazka Stranstviy" (Fairy tale of Wanderings) in Foros, bolted by Igor Savelyev. He passes to the left of " Dupa Zalizova", and it is the most complex bolted multipitch route in the Crimea for today:
1st pitch 6ñ +
2nd 6b +
3rd 7b + or higher (tastes differ)
4th 6b
5th 6ñ +
6th 6b
7th 6à

I took my old shabby soft rocky shoes that appeared the big mistake as all the route goes on very technical difficult plates where I had to put my feet on crimpers almost not visible at all! The third pitch is somewhat! - We had to squeeze all efforts and do our best not to fall and fail all the route! The last crux of the 40-m pitch is the move through two tiny chopped holds with the feet holding nearly almost on friction! The distances between bolts are enough: from 2.5 up to 3.5 meters, and, except for technical complexities, also psychological one adds. In general, I liked the route! We sent it for three hours - all pitches by free climbing, on sight. I think, it is a good result. We wait for impressions and opinions concerning categories from those who will on sight the route.