Russian
Bouldering Cup. Moscow
April, 9-11
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8 april 2004
The
citation of the day:
Olga Bibik:
" It seems to me, it is very important in
bouldering to put your legs in such way as it was conceived by route-setters.
The variant "without feet" will not go off".
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9-11 april 2004
The main theme of the day:
What is important for successful competing in bouldering?
The
quotation of the day
Mikhail Pekarev: The atmosphere is
very important: such dynamical, rhythmical, as rhythm of life in
Moscow. If you have not catch the subway, it means, that's all,
you have to wait for the following train, and you will be late for
a meeting. The same thing in bouldering: each attempt is at a high
price.
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Route setters |
The main theme of the day:
What is necessary to prepare good bouldering?
The
quotation of the day
Alexey Kozlov: You have to climb lines,
to understand the people who are going to send these problems and
a level of their complexity. Not just have approximate conception
about them, but understand: this problem is simple, and that one
is difficult. That's enough. If you want to send them - the main
thing you should be able to climb at all.
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Results |
Men
- Salavat Rakhmetov, Ufa
- Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Ekaterinburg
- Sergey Shemulinkin, S.Petersburg
Women
- Julia Abramchuk
- Olga Shalagina, Ukraine, Odessa
- Olga Bibik, Krasnoyarsk
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The
main theme of the day: What
is important for successful sending the problems in bouldering? |

Dulub Jury, Kaliningrad
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Jury and Svetlana Dulub
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Jury Dulub:
You have to read the problem and climb it
as you have intended to do that. It is desirable to be adjusted
on first go sending. If you could not do the first go, it means
that you have to send second go. But this is the most important
thing, as it seems to me, - to read and do all your best at first
go.
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Ksenia Sdobnikova, Moscow
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Ksenia Sdobnikova:
When you are competing in difficulty you always
have the opportunity to have a rest, but in bouldering you have
to do everything quickly - to begin and send the problem on one
breath.
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Julia Abramchuk, St.Petersburg
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Julia Abramchuk:
the most important thing - to send the problem
first go. When you have only six minutes to send the problem in
bouldering competitions, attempts play very important role. The
factor that you have to compete with other climbers strains a little
bit and all attempts are of importance.
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Denis Sharafutdinov, Ekaterinburg
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Denis Sharafutdinov:
All technical elements were very carefully
thought over, the most important task - to manage to read a problem
how it was conceived by route-setters, and to manage to do all your
best sending it. Success and self-confidence are necessary for this
purpose.
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Mikhail Pekarev, Moscow
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Mikhail Pekarev:
The atmosphere is very important: such dynamical,
rhythmical, as rhythm of life in Moscow. If you have not catch the
subway, it means, that's all, you have to wait for the following
train, and you will be late for a meeting. The same thing in bouldering:
each attempt is at a high price.
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Salavat Rakhmetov, Ufa
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Salavat Rakhmetov:
First, you have to be confident, calm. When
you are quiet, you come and can really read a problem. Even if you
have not read it, have not understood from the first time, - you
have to calm down and think that you will guess already in sending
process.
And your shape, certainly, is necessary to
be good. Even not physical, and in the technical plan. You have
to feel your body.
Sometimes it happens, that you see holds,
but not having caught something you can not make movement. The main
thing – your calmness and confidence.
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Katya Yaemurd, St. Petersburg
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Katya Yaemurd:
You have to read a problem correctly. Even
when I am shaking, I should calm down, gather, and everything will
be normal.
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Olga Jakovleva, Tolyatti
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Olga Jakovleva:
I need that it will appear "my" problem, technical
one. And the mood will be on me, the hands - legs obey me, instead
of such way when you are climbing and your head is in one place,
but your hands - legs in other. You have to supervise yourself completely
on a problem and to keep the control over the first start till the
moment, when you will send the last problem.
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Dmitry and Denis Sharafutdinovy,
Ekaterinburg
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Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Ekaterinburg
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Dmitry Sharafutdinov:
First of all, before the day of start it is
good to sleep well, in day of competitions you have to be in a good
mood, have a good warm-up and confidence in yourself.
.
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Sergey Shemulinkin, St.Petersburg
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Sergey Shemulinkin:
You have to train more and more.
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Eugeny Krivosheitsev
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Eugeny Krivosheitsev: The most important
thing - adjust on the first go. As for me in bouldering event the
first attempt always solves everything. Also adjust to first go
determines the final results. If I did not send the problem first
go, I can struggle up to the end then, but there will be less chances,
the first failure always affects on the result.
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Route-setters |
The
main theme of the day: What are necessary things to prepare good bouldering
event? |

Alexey Kozlov, Ekaterinburg
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Alexey Kozlov:
You have to climb lines, to understand the
people who are going to send these problems and a level of their
complexity. Not just have approximate conception about them, but
understand: this problem is simple, and that one is difficult. That's
enough. If you want to send them - the main thing you should be
able to climb at all. 
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Shaliguin Alexey, Krasnoyarsk
/ Moscow
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Alexey Shaliguin:
The main thing that Alexey Shaliguin was present
at competitions. Then the success is provided.
.
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Alexander Kozlov, Moscow
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Alexander Kozlov:
You have to climb bouldering problems by yourself
and to have experience and imagination.
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Photos |

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Mike Kochetkov, Kaliningrad
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THE SCANDAL COLUMN:
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Olga+Zhenya
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Olga+Sasha
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Olga+Zhenya
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Igor Astashov, Ekaterinburg
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Volodya Berezovsky,
Moscow
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Dimitry Bichkov, Irina Levova,
Moscow
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Portfolio
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