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Russian Bouldering Cup. Moscow
April, 9-11


Reportings, news, comments

Anna Piunova

8 april 2004

Photos from route-setting

The citation of the day:

Olga Bibik:

" It seems to me, it is very important in bouldering to put your legs in such way as it was conceived by route-setters.

The variant "without feet" will not go off".

 

 

 

 

9-11 april 2004

The main theme of the day: What is important for successful competing in bouldering?

The quotation of the day

Mikhail Pekarev: The atmosphere is very important: such dynamical, rhythmical, as rhythm of life in Moscow. If you have not catch the subway, it means, that's all, you have to wait for the following train, and you will be late for a meeting. The same thing in bouldering: each attempt is at a high price.

 

Route setters

The main theme of the day: What is necessary to prepare good bouldering?

The quotation of the day

Alexey Kozlov: You have to climb lines, to understand the people who are going to send these problems and a level of their complexity. Not just have approximate conception about them, but understand: this problem is simple, and that one is difficult. That's enough. If you want to send them - the main thing you should be able to climb at all.

 

Results

Men

  1. Salavat Rakhmetov, Ufa
  2. Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Ekaterinburg
  3. Sergey Shemulinkin, S.Petersburg

Women

  1. Julia Abramchuk
  2. Olga Shalagina, Ukraine, Odessa
  3. Olga Bibik, Krasnoyarsk

 

The main theme of the day: What is important for successful sending the problems in bouldering?


Dulub Jury, Kaliningrad


Jury and Svetlana Dulub

Jury Dulub:

You have to read the problem and climb it as you have intended to do that. It is desirable to be adjusted on first go sending. If you could not do the first go, it means that you have to send second go. But this is the most important thing, as it seems to me, - to read and do all your best at first go.

 

 


Ksenia Sdobnikova, Moscow

 

Ksenia Sdobnikova:

When you are competing in difficulty you always have the opportunity to have a rest, but in bouldering you have to do everything quickly - to begin and send the problem on one breath.

 

 

 

 

 


Julia Abramchuk, St.Petersburg

 

Julia Abramchuk:

the most important thing - to send the problem first go. When you have only six minutes to send the problem in bouldering competitions, attempts play very important role. The factor that you have to compete with other climbers strains a little bit and all attempts are of importance.

 

 

 


Denis Sharafutdinov, Ekaterinburg

 

Denis Sharafutdinov:

All technical elements were very carefully thought over, the most important task - to manage to read a problem how it was conceived by route-setters, and to manage to do all your best sending it. Success and self-confidence are necessary for this purpose.

 

 

 


Mikhail Pekarev, Moscow

 

Mikhail Pekarev:

The atmosphere is very important: such dynamical, rhythmical, as rhythm of life in Moscow. If you have not catch the subway, it means, that's all, you have to wait for the following train, and you will be late for a meeting. The same thing in bouldering: each attempt is at a high price.

 

 

 


Salavat Rakhmetov, Ufa

Salavat Rakhmetov:

First, you have to be confident, calm. When you are quiet, you come and can really read a problem. Even if you have not read it, have not understood from the first time, - you have to calm down and think that you will guess already in sending process.

And your shape, certainly, is necessary to be good. Even not physical, and in the technical plan. You have to feel your body.

Sometimes it happens, that you see holds, but not having caught something you can not make movement. The main thing – your calmness and confidence.

 

 


Katya Yaemurd, St. Petersburg

 

Katya Yaemurd:

You have to read a problem correctly. Even when I am shaking, I should calm down, gather, and everything will be normal.

 

 

 

 

 


Olga Jakovleva, Tolyatti

 

Olga Jakovleva:

I need that it will appear "my" problem, technical one. And the mood will be on me, the hands - legs obey me, instead of such way when you are climbing and your head is in one place, but your hands - legs in other. You have to supervise yourself completely on a problem and to keep the control over the first start till the moment, when you will send the last problem.

 

 

 

 


Dmitry and Denis Sharafutdinovy, Ekaterinburg


Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Ekaterinburg

 

Dmitry Sharafutdinov:

First of all, before the day of start it is good to sleep well, in day of competitions you have to be in a good mood, have a good warm-up and confidence in yourself.

.

 

 

 


Sergey Shemulinkin, St.Petersburg

 

 

Sergey Shemulinkin: You have to train more and more.

 

 

 

 

Евгений Кривошейцев
Eugeny Krivosheitsev

 

Eugeny Krivosheitsev: The most important thing - adjust on the first go. As for me in bouldering event the first attempt always solves everything. Also adjust to first go determines the final results. If I did not send the problem first go, I can struggle up to the end then, but there will be less chances, the first failure always affects on the result.

 

 

 

 

 
Route-setters
The main theme of the day: What are necessary things to prepare good bouldering event?


Alexey Kozlov, Ekaterinburg

 

Alexey Kozlov:

You have to climb lines, to understand the people who are going to send these problems and a level of their complexity. Not just have approximate conception about them, but understand: this problem is simple, and that one is difficult. That's enough. If you want to send them - the main thing you should be able to climb at all.

 

 

 


Shaliguin Alexey, Krasnoyarsk / Moscow

 

Alexey Shaliguin:

The main thing that Alexey Shaliguin was present at competitions. Then the success is provided. .

 

 

 

 

 


Alexander Kozlov, Moscow

 

Alexander Kozlov:

You have to climb bouldering problems by yourself and to have experience and imagination.

 

 

 

 

 

Photos

Mike Kochetkov, Kaliningrad
THE SCANDAL COLUMN:

Olga+Zhenya

Olga+Sasha

Olga+Zhenya

Igor Astashov, Ekaterinburg

Volodya Berezovsky, Moscow
 


Dimitry Bichkov, Irina Levova, Moscow

 
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