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Angel Wall. Expedition to the lost world

Alexander Klenov gives an interview to Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Part 2 (Part 1 >>)

Country: Venezuela
Wall: Angel Wall
Route: Rainbow JAMBAI
Characteristics: 1100m, E7, 6b (Great Britain grade) or ED3, 7C + (7C + obligatoire)
Participants:
Alexander Klenov "MANARAGA-TEAM"
John Arran
Anne Arran, 34
Ivan Calderon
Miles Gibson
Ben Heason
Alfredo Rangel

 

Nature

The nature is unique there. Outlandish creatures. While we were reaching the mountain, Ben nearly stepped on a crocodile, and our fervent desire to get out of a boat disappeared. Huge spider, scorpions, snakes… Fortunately, I did not see any creature climbing the wall, only on approaches, in the river, in the camp. As people say in Tipui you can meet even a panther...

 

Did not falling water prevent climbing?

Water prevented our climbing of the first pitches very much. Then such hard overhang began that the rain just did not reach us after first three pitches.

Rocks were tough but strongly destroyed, there was a lot of ruined blocks and you could drop a block as big as a man as easy as pie.

We had to choose two routes: one for climbing, and the other (more aside the base camp) for organizing pitches and hauling gear. In general, we had a lot to do actually besides clean climbing.

 

Weather

I can tell that we got the jump with weather. In the beginning of our ascent there was a good weather with rare rains during ten days. The bottom ropes were wetted, but due to the wind and falls. It took us three days instead of two when we led our way through the river and had practically everywhere to pull out the boat because of very low water. That made us some difficulties.

But we started in enough comfortable conditions and had time to climbed hanging part and set the camp before the bad weather. And any water was not black ordeal for us. Everything flowing from above, falling was already above us.

This winter occurred early, there is a lot of water, and the river rose for the days of our ascent. So for this reason the way back turned out without any crunches.

 

Constant rain

We went with the rain rather easy. At the top the rain in itself is not present; there was a cloud and water suspension. The basic rain drops out below.

It is interesting, that the falls is formed not from the lake. In Tipui there is such pillow from vegetation about one meter in width like sponge that accumulates water and then gradually lets it out. But there are no lakes or rivers above there. So, this falls arises as though anywhere.

Route name: Rainbow JAMBAIÀ

We named the route using the first letters of names of the participants: John, Anna, Miles, Ben, Alexander, Ivan, Alfredo.

There were seven of us as seven colors of a rainbow.
And this name reminds a dance - jumba.
It is possible to tell - rainbow jumba.

 

Plans

To have a rest. Even slightly. In the summer I am going to Erydag to take part at the Russian Mountaineering championship.

Editorial note: Instead of an epilogue.
By old kind Russian tradition congratulation with respect to this successful Angel Wall’s ascent were passed almost by whisper as though Alexander had made something indecent. But as though it sounded banal and pathosly: dear friends, once again on our eyes the History was made. For the first time the Russian climber free climbed a wall of such level.
And now, in reply to mean hits of steve houses concerning cleanliness of Russian style, we get ("I withdraw from my loose pantaloons, Read it and envy me...", Vladimir Mayakovsky) a trump ace: “Oh, come now! What about Klenov?”