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Report from a meeting on 11 February 2003 with the IOC Department of Sports, Olympic Games Co-ordination and IF Relations in Lausanne, Switzerland

Following the previous meeting on 16 July 2002 a follow up meeting was held on 11 February 2003 to update Olivier Lenglet the IOC’s Manager of Sports Operations. Lenglet is kept informed of UIAA activities by e-mail and letter, so this was an informal meeting to maintain personal contact. The meeting lasted around 45 minutes and finished in a very cordial atmosphere with Lenglet looking forward to being kept informed about UIAA competition sports.

The key purpose of the meeting was to make sure Lenglet is aware of recent developments in the UIAA competition sports; progress with the dossier of proposals for cooperation and peace, protection of the environment and sporting excellence; and also to get further guidance on how the competition sports can become Olympic programme sports. The following is a summary of the points discussed and advice from Lenglet:

1. UIAA Competition Calendar for 2003

Lenglet was impressed by the combined calendar for world cups and championships for the three UIAA competition sports. He noted the number of European countries hosting events. He asked about the percentage of female competitors taking part.

2. Developments

2.1 Ice Climbing

Lenglet was already aware about the acceptance of ice climbing competitions as an official UIAA discipline. He was impressed by the photographs of last year’s competition in Kirov, Russia and noted the ice climbing world championship was about to be hosted there. He noted the figures for the television coverage of the recently completed ice climbing world cup.

2.2 Ski Mountaineering

Lenglet noted that the UIAA ski mountaineering series had recently started. He was interested to hear about and welcomed the new series of ski mountaineering competitions (“Randonnee Rally”) in North America with the first event held in Whistler (which is resort in the Vancouver 2010 bid). We discussed an Italian proposal to host the 2006 ski mountaineering world championship near Monte Viso just after the Turin 2006 Winter Olympic Games and just before the Paralympic Games. The Olympic Charter has a specific clause prohibiting other championship and world events being organised close to and at the same time as an Olympic Games. The timing aspect of this clause is slightly unclear but Lenglet was of the firm opinion that to organise such an event so close to the Winter Games would not be welcomed and should be avoided.

2.3 Climbing

Lenglet was already aware about the UIAA’s acceptance into the 2005 World Games and IWGA. He noted The World Games brochure that includes the UIAA and “Mountaineering: competition climbing”. Lenglet noted the summary of media information. Lenglet was particularly interested in the possible inclusion of climbing in FISU and the Student Games. I asked Lenglet if he thought it would be appropriate and worthwhile to invite the IOC President to the climbing world championship in Chamonix in July. He thought that any such invitation could not be accepted (see 4.2 below and timing of important decisions about programme sports). Lenglet suggested that the 2005 World Games would be the appropriate opportunity for UIAA officials to welcome the IOC President to a climbing competition.

3. Contacts

3.1 Sport and Environment Commission

Lenglet noted the UIAA’s approach to the IOC Sport and Environment Commission and suggested a follow up contact. Also, the IOC has only just appointed a new Director of International Cooperation and Development (vacant since last March) who will be a key person to progress the ideas outlined in the dossier.

3.2 Olympic Truce Foundation

Lenglet noted the UIAA’s approach to the Olympic Truce Foundation and suggested a follow up contact. At a conference on Sport and Development (16-18 February) it may be possible to make a direct personal contact with Stavros Lambrinidis theDirector of the International Olympic Truce Centre in Athens.

3.3 Candidate cities for the 2010 Winter Games

Lenglet noted the information the UIAA has provided to the candidate cities for 2010. He confirmed that the process for deciding the host city is separate to the decision about programme sports.

3.4 Host cities for 2004, 2006 and 2008

Lenglet noted the UIAA has submitted to the host cities for the next Olympic Games (Athens, Turin and Beijing) the dossier of proposals for cooperation and peace, protection for the environment and sporting excellence.

4. Plans

4.1 2004 Youth Climbs and Events for Peace and Environment

Lenglet noted the series of youth climbs and events and hoped that the relevant parts of the IOC would support this initiative. He felt there could be a good link with this initiative and student sport.

4.2 Olympic Games Programme

Lenglet summarised the position with the review of the sports in the Olympic Games programme. Last year in Mexico the IOC decided not to reduce the number of summer sports until after the Athens 2004 Games. Lenglet explained that as an outcome of the IOC decision in Mexico the Executive Committee has been working on a proposal for a new system for selection for inclusion in the Olympic Games based on new principles. He seemed to be suggesting that the following would be important: the balance between male and female athletes, events for disabled athletes, and participation by young people. He expected that the Executive Committee would make an announcement about the proposed system within a month, and that there could be a vote at the next IOC meeting in Prague in July. We discussed the difficulty to introduce change to organisations and the politics and lobbying connected to difficult decisions. Lenglet absolutely understood the aim of the 3 UIAA competition sports to be included in the Olympic Games programme, and said “Why not?”.

5. Any Other Items

Lenglet congratulated the UIAA on the achievement award for the ‘Swiss Summit’ and also the comment of congratulations from the IOC President. Lenglet noted that the IOC President is one of the speakers at the International Conference on Sport and Development (16-18 February) being organised by the Swiss Agency for Development, the Swiss Federal Office, and the UN office of Adolf Ogi. This conference will provide the UIAA with another opportunity to raise awareness about the dossier of proposals and the series of youth events in 2004 to promote peace and protection of the environment.

The meeting lasted around 45 minutes and finished in a very cordial atmosphere with Oliver Lenglet looking forward to being kept informed about UIAA competition sports.

6. Personal observations and recommendations following the meeting

  1. Refrain from inviting the IOC President to the climbing world championship in July 2003.
  2. Focus on and develop events for young people and disabled athletes including the series of events in 2004 outlined in the dossier to promote peace and the environment.
  3. Focus on the 2005 World Games and the opportunity then for the IOC President to see a climbing competition.
  4. Deter the Italian proposal for a ski mountaineering world championship in 2006.
  5. Focus on getting UIAA competitions into FISU (ice climbing and ski mountaineering in the winter university games, and climbing into the summer university games).
  6. Concentrate our collective efforts on improving the organisation and running of UIAA competitions so that they meet and exceed the standards expected of an Olympic Programme sport. Including:
    • Better integration of information (athlete ranking, calendar, etc.)
    • Improve the competition calendar e.g. more events outside of Europe, and (I would suggest) with fewer events in total to give greater focus and significance to individual competitions.
    • Improve the promotion of UIAA competitions using consistent names.
    • Improve the information on participation and media reporting for UIAA events (see attached draft outline report form).

Roger Payne, Sports and Development Director, 16 February 2003


Suggested outline report required from all UIAA competitions

In addition to reporting the following points it would also be valuable to require event organisers to use the same list to indicate their plans and estimates when submitting an application to be included in the calendar. Once agreed the list of information required could be formatted into a report form and made available via the web site.

1. Promotion

  • Number of printed adverts and circulation figures for the publications
  • Number of broadcast adverts and listener and viewer figures
  • Number and distribution of leaflets and flyers
  • Number and distribution of posters
  • Number of programmes printed and distributed
  • Total number of printed items and broadcasts promoting the competition

2. Participation

  • List of countries taking part
  • List of continents represented
  • Number of junior female and male athletes
  • Number of disabled junior female and male athletes
  • Number of senior female and male athletes
  • Number of disabled senior female and male athletes
  • Total number of athletes in the competition

3. Spectators

  • Number or estimate of coaches and competition officials present
  • Number or estimate of invited guests, other officials and representatives of sponsors, etc.
  • Number or estimate of other free spectators
  • Number of tickets sold to spectators for each day of the competition
  • Total number of spectators for the competition

4. Reports

  • List of magazine reports about the competition with circulation figures
  • List of newspaper reports about the competition with circulation figures
  • List of web reports about the competition with visitor figures
  • List of web-cast reports from the competition with visitor figures
  • List of radio reports about the competition with audience figures
  • List of television reports from the competition with viewer figures
  • Estimated total number of competition report readers, listeners and viewers

Draft as at 16 February 2003

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