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(29.12.2005)
Closed girl's club "8ñ". Newcomer: Martina Cufar

Shortly before Christmas, in clear, dry and warm day in December 21 a Slovene Martina Cufar managed to send her first 8c "Vizija" in Misja Pec.
"People are asking me now, when I will try something harder. I don't think about this yet. My goal for next year is firstly to be better on competitions again I think I did a big step forward with my new coach Ales Jensterle (he's also Natalija Gros's coach) the quality and also quantity of my indoor training grew a lot only with this and my long experiences I can catch the strong youngsters. I was really happy to win one national competition in December this is quite hard now, with 4 World cup finalists (among who Maja Vidmar) for concurrence. I hope to continue in such a rhythm in 2006"
In spite of the fact that Martina a lot of time climbs in climbing gyms, the list of her outdoor-achievements is rather impressive:

On-sight:
1. Paieda 8a +, Rodellar, 10.10.2005
2. Maneras de vivir 8a, Terradets, 16.10.2005
3. Coliseum 8a, Rodellar, 9.10.2005
4. El corredor de la muerte 8a, Rodellar, 10.10.2005
5. Gracias fina 8a, Rodellar, 12.10.2005
6. Ambicion cero 8a, Rodellar, 12.10.2005
7. Pepe el bolido 8a, El Chorro, 13.3.2005 np
8. Chimere au loin 8a, Restonica, 15.4.2005
9. Le syndrome trapez 8a, Restonica, 15.4.2005
10. Cost of freedom 8a, Tournoux, 30.7.2005
11. Cuirs et dentelles 7c +/8a, St. Florent, 18.4.2005
12. Le chien chia sur le chat chiant 7c +/8a, Col du Chat, 17.7.2005
13. Rain man 7c +/8a, Zillertal, 18.8.2005
14. Maskoking 7c +/8a, Rodellar, 13.10.2005
15. Porrot 7c +/8a El Chorro, 8.3.2005

Flash:
1. Santa Esmeralda, 8a, Costiera, 22.1.2005

Redpoint:
1. Vizija 8c, Misja pec, 21.12.2005
2. Nicht losslassen konnenn 8b/b +, Warmbad, 9.6.2005
3. El complot 8a +, El Chorro, 6.3.2005
4. Lingua secca 8a +, St. Florent, 21.4.2005
5. Flatliners 8a +, Warmbad, 12.5.2005
6. Mordor 8a +, Warmbad, 23.5.2005
7. Canniballe 8a +, La Balme 22.7.2005
8. Millenium 8a +, Terradets, 16.10.2005
9. Silent alarm 8a +, Bitnje, 27.9.2005
10. Corps et ame 8a, La Turbie, 12.2.2005
11. Lourdes 8a, El Chorro, 9.3.2005
12. Rima libre 8a El Chorro, 14.3.2005
13. Cosa Strechu 8a, St. Florent, 12.4.2005
14. Modern art 8a, Goltschach, 21.5.2005
15. Chiave stella 8a, Casso, 18.6.2005
16. Venus 8a, La Balme, 16.7.2005
17. Zivljenje 8a, Kupljenik, 29.8.2005

Source: http://www.freakclimbing.com/

(28.12.2005)
Jean-Christophe Lafaille. Makalu Winter Solo attempt. Christmas at 7000m Chronicle: on December, 23 Jean-Christophe spent the night at 6000m. He was going to get 6500m on December, 24, 7000m- on December 25, 7400m - on December 26 and come back BC on December 27. But, as it's known, man proposes but God disposes...

On December, 25, having climbed 7100m, Jean-Christophe he ailed sadly- it seems too fast climb and weariness after hauling gear in high-altitude camps affected.
Well, he preferred to descend to BC hardly before it had been planned. If he feel better Jean-Christophe will continue his attempt on December, 27. While he left his things in high-altitude camp at 6900m.

Information is provided by Katya Lafaille


Photo: http://info.branchez-vous.com
(22.12.2005)
Alain Robert, the French Spider-Man, is at large, back home and atop Òour Cristal

Alain Robert, so coldly met by America, is at large again, back home, atop Òour Cristal (Crystal Tower), Paris, 14th district.

On Tuesday at the height of noon Alain righted himself scaling the 27-story of 100-meter building. He got upon a roof in twenty minutes after start. Policemen already were waiting for him there :)

Right after descent Alain Robert told reporters, that he made this urban-climb in protest for the mean lie of the Texas policemen seized him during an attempt of climbing the outside of One Houston Center and charged the Spider-Man with penetration into the forbidden zone and illegal possession of drugs.
"I had the recipe for this medicine!" - the Spider-Man assured the journalists.

Source: www.kairn.com

(20.12.2005)
Jean-Christophe Lafaille. Makalu Winter Real Solo attempt

A French climber Jean-Christophe Lafaille is in "Japanese" base camp at 5300m now. Weather is typical for this season, yesterday temperature in the tent was about negative 10°Ñ.

(20.12.2005)
Aksu Winter climb. Assault is going on. Castling in the team

After they helped Evgeny Novoseltsev to come back to civilization, the guys returned to the gorge and on Saturday continued working on the route. Castling in the team: Sergey Dashkevich has joined the main team. Evgeny Dmitrenko, à.k.a. Kamikaze from Krasnoyarsk, set aside for better times his aim to make free solo ascent Aksu via Klenov's route he had planned originally and joined a storming team ("Magnitka" +Dashkevich)

(19.12.2005)
Aksu Winter climb. Zhenya Novoseltsev's in Uzgurush now. Evgeny Dmitrenko (a.k.a. Kamikaze) started his solo climb.

"We had time to get Kosha before dark and spent the night there. Now we are in Uzgurush. Zhenya Novoseltsev feels much better".
Nevertheless, Evgeny needs to be accompanied first to Bishkek and further to Ekaterinburg.

Evgeny Dmitrenko (a.k.a. Kamikaze) from Krasnoyarsk - the only climber left in the gorge - started to solo climb Aksu. There is nobody under the wall. And it's not clear yet whether somebody from the guys comes back the camp.


Photo Alex Shabot and www.kairn.com
(15.12.2005)
Where is to climb in December? - In Spain! Last news from Alex Shabot

"In Spain the sky is always a cloudless blue", - Alex thought before departure. It appeared just a beautiful legend. "The sun shines only three hours a day here. Heavens black with clouds. A wind, a severe cold. I choose short lines for climbing".

Winter ascents:
Short lines (like bouldering problems) in sector L'Olla
La cara que no miento, 8a +
Tic i toc, 8a +
Kurfil, 8b

The first repeats on-sight (on this very day)
Migranya, 8b, sector L'Olla
Zona 0, 8b, sector El Pati

All photos (number: 1)

Source: www.kairn.com

(15.12.2005)
Rich Simpson against Action Directe.

The sixth ascent in photos.

(15.12.2005)
Aksu Winter climb Expedition is de-escalated in connection with emergency of Evgeny Novoseltsev.

Sad news: Evgeny had a heart attack after the team had arrived to Bishkek. The doctors wrote a prescription with some pills and pressed him absolute bed reste. But he felt better after a week of staying in the city.
And then decline again. The decisions "to climb or not to climb" varied depending on his health state. Nevertheless Evgeny started the route. Yesterday all the team descended transporting the ill climber downwards.
He cannot go unassisted. Evacuation by a helicopter costs 13000$ and is considered as an extreme variant.


Ôîòî 8a.nu
(13.12.2005)
Dave Graham. 9à + in Switzerland?

Allegedly :) Dave Graham finished working above his new project in Switzerland. A route under the name " Coup de Grace is supposedly of 9à +!

See the details later on M.Ru

Source: www.kairn.com


Ôîòî www.planetmountain.com
(8.12.2005)
The long road of life. New 8ñ-traverse from ex-world champion Christian Core

The champion of Italy in bouldering and ex-world champion Christian Core finished his old project, super-traverse in Varazze, sector Antro dei Druidi, Italy.
The line of 57 moves connects all the problems on the first boulder on the road from a parking. It was named "The long road of life" estimated 8ñ trav.

Source: www.infoboulder.com

(8.12.2005)
Date update: 9.12.2005
Aksu Winter Climb (Pamiro-Alai, Lyailyak gorge). Ural-Siberian expedition

On December, 4 a group of climbers from Ekaterinburg, Angarsk, Krasnoyarsk and Magnitogorsk arrived to Bishkek. On December, 6 the team planned to do the first full carry under the route.

Expedition aims:

Aksu (5355m)
Novoseltsev (Ekaterinburg), Shonin (Ekaterinburg), Veretenin (Angarsk).

Aksu Solo
Evgeny Dmitrienko (a.k.a.Kamikaze) (Krasnoyarsk)

Alexander Block peak (5239m)
Dashkevich Serguey (Åkaterinburg)
Zavalishchev Gennady (Magnitogorsk)

Check out on the Mountain.RU: Ak-Su peak, 5355m

(2.12.2005)
Jean Christophe Lafaille. Makalu Winter Solo

Jean Christophe Lafaille is heading to Nepal for Makalu (8481m) Winter Solo attempt.
Next week he plans to use a helicopter to deliver in advance food and gear to base camp and to make some acclimatization ascents.

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