Jannu, 7710м
North Face

The "Big Wall - Russian Way" project consists in climbing new routes on the most famous walls in the world. A mountain wall is a natural phenomenal occurrence represented as a precipice more than 1000m long and with a steepness more than 70°.
On St.Petersburg' anniversary the strongest mountain-climbers set to summit a still unclimbed top in the Himalayas and give it the name "Peter Velikiy" (the project did not take place) and to climb new russian route on the hardest North Face of Peak Jannu in the autumn of 2003.

The Team
At present phase of the Project the members of the team were confirmed.
The climbers are:

Alexander Odintsov- the leader, St.Petersburg

Alexander Ruchkin - St.Petersburg

Nikolay Totmyanin - St.Petersburg

Mikhail Devi - Ekatherinburg

Alexey Bolotov - Ekatherinburg

Mikhail Pershin - Ekatherinburg

Mikhail Mihailov - Bishkek

Ivan Samoylenko - St.Petersburg

Mikhail Bakin - St.Petersburg

The Sponsors are:
"Panasonic",
"Bask",
"Tyan-Shan Trevel",
"Stregor",
"Bars",
"Maxidom",
"Orimi-Trade",
"Mountech",
"CRC computers",
"Irbis",
the Committee of physical training and Sport under St.Petersburg' Administration.

Russian

News

The summary of the members of the expedition:

Alexander Odintsov
A permanent leader of the Project "Big Wall - Russian Way". Master of Sport in international class. He was born on 18th of October 1957 in Vyborg. He started climbing in 1975 at College of Mines. Mountain guide.

The best ascents:
1981
Khodzha-Lokan, 5B (two routes); Zamin-Karor, 5B
1982
Zamin-Karor, 5B (two routes), 6th category.;
Brothers Kadamtsevykh, 5B in winter.
1983
Uilpata, 5B;
Dalar, 5B;
Mamison, 6th category. (new route);
East Dombay, via Gubanov, 6th category - 2nd place in the USSR Championship in technical class.
1984
Zamin-Karor, 6th category., 5B;
Bodkhona, 6th category.;
Korona, 5B in winter
1985
Peak 40-years of Pobeda, 5B;
Zamin-Karor, 6th category - 2nd place in the USSR Championship in rock class.
1986
Zamin-Karor, 6th category.;
Tutek, 6th category. (new route) - 4th place in the USSR Championship.
1987
Khodzha-Lokan, 5B;
Zamok, 5B (new route) - 5th place in the USSR Championship.
1988
Shhelda, via Kinsitskiy, 5B in winter;
Asan, via Pogorelov, 6th category;
Asan, 6th category (new route);
Peak 4810, 6th category (new route) - 1st place in the USSR Championship.
1989
Peak Schurovckogo, 5B;
Dzhaylyk, 5B;
Tyutyu-Bashi, 5B;
Donguz-Orun, 5B;
Shhelda, 6th category.;
Ushba, 6th category.;
Chatyn, 6th category;
Chegem, 6th category - 3rd place in the USSR Championship.
1991
Peak Slesova, 6th category;
Asan, 6th category - 3rd place in the USSR Championship.
1992
Peak Bloka, 5B;
Peak 4600, 5B
1994
Peak 3850, 5B;
Asan, 6th category.;
Peak 4240, 6th category - 2nd place in the Russian Championship.
1995
Peak 3850, 5B;
Peak 4810, 6th category (new route) - 2nd place in the Russian Championship.
1996
Peak Ak-Su, 6th category (new route) - 1st place in the Russian Championship.
1997
Troll Wall, Norway, 6th category, new route named Baltika - 2nd place in the Russian Championship.
1999
Great Trango Tower, Pakistan, new route on the South-West Face (it had been unclimbed till 1999), 6th category. The route was named as "Russian Route".
2002
Great Sail Peak, Baffin, Canada, 6th category.

Alexander Ruchkin
Master of Sport in international class. He has climbed 25 mixed routes of higher category.

The high-altitude ascents:
- Peak Lenina
- Peak Khan-Tengri

The technical ascents:
- Peak Ak-Su- two new routes
- Peak of Free Korea- first ascent, solo
- Korona- first ascent, solo
- Peak of Russia- South-East face
- Petit-Dru- new route
- Grand Jorasse- speed ascent
- Troll Wall- new route
- Great Sail Peak, Baffin, Canada, new route

Nikolay Tomyanin
Mountain Guide, master of Sport, fivefold "snow bars".

He has made 36 high-altitude ascents
- Peak Pobeda- 5 ascents
- Peak Kommunizm- 6 ascents, including the speed ascent for 28 hours.
- Peak Khan-Tengry- 8 ascents, including speed one for 14 hours
- Peak Lenina- 6 ascents, including the speed one for 12 hours
- Peak Korzhenevsraya - 7 ascents, including in winter Lhotse- South Face, new route

The technical ascents
- Peak Ak-Su- new route
- Peak Sabakh - new route
- Peak of Free Korea - new route
- Eiger- in winter
- Naranjo de Bulnes

Mikhail Davy
Was born on the 20th of April, 1966 in Tyumen. He graduated College of Mines in Ekatherinburg. Master of Sport in international class.

The best ascents
2002
Great Sail Peak, Baffin, Canada, 6th category.
2000
Spantik, 6th category, new route. He won the "Gold Edelweiss" award in 2000 as the best russian climber.
Petit Dru, 6th category, new route, "Up to Madonna" route
1999
Thalay Sagar, 6th category, new route;
Grande Capuchine, 6th category, new route in winter named "Russian Winter".
1998
Petit Dru, the South Face, 6th category, new route;
Grand Jorasse, the South Face, 6th category, variant
1997
Ak-Su, 6th category, new route
1996
Ak-Su, 6th category, new route
1995
Petit Dru, 6th category, the "Americain Direct" route
1994
Peak 3850, 5B (two routes);
Asan, 5B (two routes);
Peak Slesova-6B;
Peak 4810-6B
1993
Peak 4810-6A, new route;
Peak Slesova-6B
1992
Sauk-Dzhelay- 6th category. (two routes)
1991
Peak Engelsa, 6510m, South-West Face, 6th category
1990
Asan, 6B
1989
Kizilbash, 6B;
Asan, 6th category;
Peak 4810, 6th category;
Peak 26 Bakinskikh Komissarov, South Face, 6A
1988
Peak 26 Bakinskikh Komissarov, 6838m, South Face, 6th category
1985
Peak Lenina

Aleksey Bolotov
Was born on the 20th of January, 1963 in Dvurechensk, Sverdlovsk region. He graduated the Ural Polytechnical Institute. Master of Sport. He was awarded with "Piolet d'Or" in 1998 (Makalu, West Face) and also the Order of the Courage.


The best ascents
2002, Everest (without oxygen)
2001, Lhotse Middle, new route (nominated for Piolet d'Or)
2000, Peak Khan-Tengry, normal route
1999, Thalay Sagar, new route; Peak Pobeda (as a guide for Japan climbers)
1998, Everest
1997, Makalu, new route on the West Face- "Piolet d'Or".
1995, Peak Pobeda
1994, Peak Khan-Tengry, The North Face
1993, Peak Pobeda from the West face (with Yokikhiko Shinagava, Japan)

Mikhail Pershin
Was born on the 11th of Desember, 1971, Master of Sport in international class. In 1999 he was the best of Russian alpinists.

The high-altitude ascents:
- Peak Lenina
- Thalay Sagar, new route

The best ascents
- Peak Ak-Su, new route in winter, 6B with Igor Nefyodov - one of the best ascents in 90-ies.
- Peak Slesova, new route
- Peak of Free Korea, in winter
- Korona, in winter
- Petit Dru

Multi-Sport:
2001
- a member of the World Championship "Discovery AIR", Switzerland,
- a member of the "Adrenalin rush", Scotland
2002
- a participant of the race "Salomon- the brave trophy", Poland
- a participant of Arctic all-round traverse, Sweden
- an organizer of survival race ARUS, Russia. 2003
- a participant of "Raid Gauloise"

Mikhail Mikhaylov
Lives in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. Mountain Guide, Master of Sport. Camera-man on hight-altitude.

The best ascents
- Peak Kommunizm, 7495m
- Peak Lenina, 7134m
- Peak Khan-Tengry,6995, The North Face (three ascents)
- Marble Wall, 6400m, West Face, new route in winter
- Peak Pobeda, 7439m
- Peak Grudzinsky, the West Face
- RGO, the West Face
- Peak Kurumdiy, new route
- Peak Nansen, in winter
- Peak of Free Korea- new route in winter
- Korona, new route

Ivan Samoylenko
Camera-man of the expedition. Master of Sport.

Ascents:
- Peak Korgenevskaya
- Peak 4810, new route
- Great Trango Tower, new route

Mikhail Bakin

The permanent doctor of the Expedition' team and all suffered.