Pumori. The route line
There is a set of routes lead
to Pumori summit, two of which are considered as the classical ones.
The route via Southeast ridge is the most simple. Nevertheless,
it is the most dangerous in a post - monsoonal period and ice collapses
from a shoulder of the southeast ridge overhangs climbers. Taking
into account winter time of our coming ascent, we choose this route
considering that the risk of ice collapses would be minimal in winter
because of low temperatures and a long absence of snowfalls during
Belousov Vladimir (Odintsovo), expedition leader
Paramonov Dmitry (Moscow),
Map of the area:
"Russian Pumori Team" Expedition
Vladimir Belousov informs:
Yesterday, 14.01, we left C2 at 6100 heading to C3 at 6500
and somewhere at 6300 were rested against a crevasse of about
one kilometer long and failed to get over it. Usually
it is tight, but now looks freshly open. And as we were going
in Alpine style... Plus other problems: Pavel was ill, all
of us were tired a bit. Therefore we decided to descend.
One of these days the guys come back, but I want to be late
a little and stay here to take a walk. Our greetings to
all of you.
Vladimir Belousov reports:
12.01 we climbed up to 6100, fixed the rest ropes and today
we have a rest after very exhausting working day. The
weather is excellent, it's rather warm and seems tremendously
improved then last year.
Vladimir Belousov reports:
Three days ago we had started to climb aiming to settle the
Camp I at 6100 but managed to fix the rope only somewhere
up to 6000. We saw that we would not have any difficulties
on the route further but with night coming on we had to descend
and rest. Tomorrow we plan to start climbing again: to
reach 6100m the day after tomorrow and to make the summit
push at 14.01. The normal weather holds.
Names: Pumori (or Pumo Ri)
Elevation (meters): 7165
Latitude: 28 ° 00 ' 53 “ N
Longitude: 86 ° 49 ' 41 “ E
Location: Himalaya, Nepal Asia;
on Nepal -Tibetan boundary, in 8 kilometers to the west from Everest.
George Mellori named the mountain as Pumori
that means “Unmarried daughter” in sherpa's language. In climbing
circles Pumori frequently called as “Everest's daughter”.
Pumori was first climbed in 1962 by Gerhard
Lenser of a German Swiss expedition.
There is a set of routes lead to Pumori summit,
two of which are considered as the classical ones. The route via
Southeast ridge is the most simple. Nevertheless, it is the most
dangerous in a post - monsoonal period and ice collapses from a
shoulder of the southeast ridge overhangs climbers. Taking into
account winter time of our coming ascent, we choose this route considering
that the risk of ice collapses would be minimal in winter because
of low temperatures and a long absence of snowfalls during this
Weather and routes' condition:
We know from the experience of previous visits
and expeditions to Nepal: weather conditions for ascent are almost
ideal in winter there. Clear weather holds usually till January,
18-20. It is enough warm in gorges and it is not terrible cold up
to 7 thousand meters there. The routes are in a less snow condition
because as a rule the strongest winds which blow above the Himalayas
during the winter play the master everywhere above 7000 m.
We will start from Moscow on December, 25
and next day arrive in Katmandu.
After receiving permits, we will buy in addition
equipment and food and on December, 28 we plan to take off to Lukla,
from where we will begin our way to the base camp that we are going
to set near to the settlement of Gorak Shep. It is in 3 hours of
trekking from Everest base camp.
We will have a New Year wassail in Tyangboche
And roughly on January, 4 we will begin to
do the first full carry under the route.
Approximately on January, 6 we plan to make
a three-day acclimatization climb up to the first camp site at 6200
After following two-day rest we plan to make
the main ascent that will take us about 4-5 days.
The fly back to Moscow is planned on January,